by rickhunter1max » Tue Jul 07, 2009 4:13 pm
It is possible to use just the axles, ring, and pinion from an S-10 rear end with some changes to different bearings. Instead of using the whole rear end from an S-10, you can also just use the axles from an early '80's 2wd S-10 You can only use 2-wheel drive Chevy S-10 and Blazer axles for a 5-lug upgrade. The axles are the same spline (26 spline) and are only 1/16" shorter than the stock Vega axles. This makes a 5-bolt swap easy. Grab the larger drums and backing plates from the S-10 as well. Besides being larger, they are often finned (better cooling) and some of them are aluminum (lighter). This swap will only work with '76 and up 7.5" rear ends.
In some cases the shorter axles result in the rear brake drums (also 5-lug) rubbing against the rear backing plates (dust covers) around the edge where the drum meets the back cover. The backing plates may have to have about 1/16" shaved of the lip facing the drum to prevent rubbing. Mine do not rub, but if you find that yours do just remove 1/16th inch from the edge of the backplates. To do this, I would suggest scribing the backplates 1/16th inch in and using a handheld grinder, remove the excess metal. Then smooth the edge with either a file or sandpaper. NOTE: 1975 and earlier vehicles have 9" diameter by 1" wide brakes and therefore a smaller backing plate. Later model (1976 to 1980) backing plates will be required for this modification.
The 7.5" Chevy S-10 gears will fit the H-Body case, but the main problem is that, in the differential case, the hole for the pinion bearing is smaller in the H-body differential than in other GM 10-bolt differentials. You can either get a machine shop to enlarge this hole or use a special pinion bearing and race.
You’ll need; S-10 gears, S-10 posi unit (if it’s posi), and S-10 axles (2 wheel drive only!) S-10 rear end yoke, S-10 drums (if you use the S-10 axles). If you reuse the Vega axles, check if the carrier of the S-10 is a 26-spline unit. The S-10 pinion gear requires Timken bearing #16143, Timken bearing race #16283, and National seal #8610, S-10 pinion yoke, and "Combination" U-joint (Dana #5-3022X). As with most all gear sets a specific gear carrier is required for a specific range of gear sizes, so the carrier must be the correct series for the gear set that you want. In other words, you need to know what series the carrier is or what gears were installed on it from the factory. A 2-series carrier fits 3.08 and numerically lower gears (3.08, 2.93, 2.73, 2.56, and 2.29), while a 3-series carrier fits 3.23 and numerically higher gears (3.23, 3.42, 3.73, and 4.10). The exception to this is if you purchase custom gears specifically made to fit your specific carrier (i.e. you can buy 3.23, 3.42, 3.73, 4.10, and 4.56 gears to fit the 2-series carrier). If you are at all performance minded, you will probably want to have a positraction unit in your H-Body. Stock posi rear ends for these cars are actually quite abundant, but can sometimes be pricey. You can upgrade to a new or different posi carrier by getting a 26-spline carrier of the right series for your gears Auburn also makes an aftermarket posi unit for the 7.5" rear end as well. Also, the Camaro and S-10 7.5" posi unit will fit the 7.5" H-Body rear housing. I have had a posi carrier from a Camaro 7.5 rear installed in my H-Body rear since 1988 and it works fine.
So, the list is:
* Enlarge pinion hole in differential and use S-10 bearing, race, and seal
-OR-
Use these non-factory parts:
Timkin bearing #16143,
Timkin bearing race #16283, and
National seal #8610.
* 7.5" gear set with pinion
* New carrier if the new gears won't fit your current carrier (see 3.10)
* S-10 rear end yoke
* "Combination" U-joint (Dana #5-3022X) to mate the S-10 yoke with your stock driveshaft
NOTE: Installing new gears requires setting the proper pinion depth and carrier position. Doing this wrong will destroy your gears. Even the most die-hard shade tree mechanics leave this to a professional. If you want to try it anyway, this is the basic procedure and tips from Robert (twelve_second_vega): "When you pull the carrier, mark the shims on the side of each bearing. They are cast iron and must be handled with care. Put a new crush sleeve on the pinion and install it in your 7.5" housing. Set the preload (about 10 inch pounds with used bearings) and set the carrier in place. Gently tap the shims you took out into place with a PLASTIC hammer and torque the caps. Only once did a gearset need to be reset. 99% of the time, you can just throw them in and go. If the backlash is off (.005" - .008" with used gears) you will need different shims. Subtract the amount you need (in backlash reduction) from the right shim to move the ring gear deeper into the pinion. BE SURE to add this SAME AMOUNT to the opposite shim. You MUST maintain the preload on the side bearings. When properly set-up, you will have to pry the carrier out of the housing and putting shims back in should not be easy either."
Ring/Pinion Swap Specs
(Turn the S-10/F-body pinion down .060")
H-body pinion O.D. (rear bearing): 1.3755”
(front bearing): 1.1875”
S-10 pinion O.D. (rear bearing): 1.975”
(front bearing): 1.1875”
Cover gasket: Victor #P2782 (NAPA) or Fel-Pro #55072
Bearings (axle): JM14070 (?); Torrington DB67309; NAPA R1563-TAV
Seals (axle): NAPA #13992
Bearings: (pinion, front, H-body & S-10): NDH #M86649A; John Deere AR94761
(pinion, rear, H-body): Timken #HM88649A
(pinion, rear, S-10, stock): Timken #HM89249
Races: (pinion, front, Buick & S-10): HDH #M86610CJ
(pinion, rear, H-body): Timken #HM88610A
(pinion, rear, S-10, stock): Timken #HM89210
Seal (pinion): National #8610
Differential carrier bearings: Timken #LM501349
Differential races: Timken #LM501314