LS conversion info?

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LS conversion info?

Postby mahoy78spyder » Fri Feb 04, 2011 1:21 pm

Hello all.... been a LONG time since I've been on the board here, but I've actually been perusing for several weeks and am just now posting after doing some research. I have been looking at several Project Journals and other forum topics that concern the LS motor conversion info I'm looking for. What I've seen so far is lots of fabrication in terms of K-member, trans mount, headers, trans tunnel, firewall/heater box, etc. but none that deal specifically with the wiring yet. Can anyone point me to the best compilation of LS conversion info on this site? (especially where "oil pan" and "wiring" are concerned?

Ken
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Re: LS conversion info?

Postby jon72vega » Fri Feb 04, 2011 6:33 pm

Hi Ken,
Welcome Back!!!!!
I can't help you with any of that info, BUT WELCOME BACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Re: LS conversion info?

Postby bill1978v8 » Fri Feb 04, 2011 7:07 pm

Hey Ken, welcome back. There is a lot of info spread around this site. I did this swap a while ago and had a guy from LS1tech redo the wiring harness from a 98 camaro. He also reprogrammed the computer to eliminate the emissions, VATS, etc. It was a 5 wire hook up. You could use a carb and an MSD box that hooks up very easy too.

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Re: LS conversion info?

Postby 80 MONZTA » Fri Feb 04, 2011 9:02 pm

More importantly, are you going with a LS in your C06 Monza? That is the only glass roof Monza known to exsist is it not? Not too sure, but I think I remember reading about your car sometime around 2002 on Bob's V-8 Monza web site. Any pic's of your car?
I am not to the wiring stage yet on my car, but it seems prety easy from reading a lot on LS1tech, especialy the Conversion & Hybrid section.
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Re: LS conversion info?

Postby ColinOpseth » Sat Feb 05, 2011 2:33 pm

LTx FTMFW!!!!!

Just kidding. An LS makes wood.
'72 Vega with '93 Camaro LT1/M29 T56/12 bolt 3.31. 16" IROCs all around. Sanderson headers into duals with an H-pipe and Flowmasters. It's loud but at least it's faster than your grandma's Buick. pwned.
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Re: LS conversion info?

Postby grandam75 » Sun Feb 06, 2011 4:31 pm

Take a look at the wiring diagram from the donor vehicle or the engine harness you have. Most diagrams can be found here:
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/312119-ls1-swap-faqs.html

Find the wires that are not needed for your application. Remove the unneeded wires and add power to 5-6 wires. You will find them in the diagrams. If you use a F-body harness the wires are long enough to place the PCM under the dash on the passenger side.
Martin from Sweden..
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Re: LS conversion info?

Postby mahoy78spyder » Tue Feb 08, 2011 11:09 pm

Thanks for the wiring diagram and the LS1Tech links.... those have been most helpful! And as for my Spyder being a C06, yes, I did consider this before looking into the conversion, but there is no modification "yet" that I'm doing to the car that can't be undone. I've owned this car for over 25 years now and after only 2 years of ownership, I yanked the 305 and built a 355, and changed a lot of other things too, so it's never been a Chevy purist car from the get go. I will always keep the body and frame pretty much unchanged, but I like a good motor and other subtle changes that can't be seen as you drive down the highway, so this is just the next evolution. :th:

Ken
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Re: LS conversion info?

Postby 80 MONZTA » Tue Feb 08, 2011 11:59 pm

I didn't intend for my post to sound like you should not go with an LS motor, in fact I think it is an awesome idea. :burn:
Still would like to see some pic's.
LeRoy
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Re: LS conversion info?

Postby RockDaddy » Wed Feb 09, 2011 6:29 pm

Im not trying to sell you anything here but I had Speartech make me a harness a few years ago. In this ad on LS1tech look at the 3rd pic and it give you some idea what they do.

This was made for my Vega swap so it didn't use wires i didn't need like trans control and stuff like that.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla ... 3-l92.html
Image;Image

Thx to Billy Briggs and the guys at http://www.motorcityspeedonline.com
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Re: LS conversion info?

Postby mahoy78spyder » Wed Feb 09, 2011 11:54 pm

Wow, nice harness they built for you there... and nice price!... I'm not to the purchasing stage yet but it does help to see what they did to build yours. The other link from LS1tech was helpful too... still making my way through that lengthy "best of" post... Am getting very excited though.... thanks for all the good info so far!

Ken
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Re: LS conversion info?

Postby monzaaddict » Thu Feb 10, 2011 11:05 pm

Well, there is a lot to think about with an ls swap in a street h-body. I am assuming you want this to look factory and want to avoid cutting sheetmetal to move radiator forward etc.
97-05 gen III ls engines use a 24x crank reluctor and a 1x cam sensor.
06-present gen IV ls engines use a 58x crank sensor and a 4x cam sensor. Some engines have displacement on demand, variable timing and paddle shifted 6 speed automatic in the corvette.
24x engines and 58x engines use different computers. changing computers is accomplished by swapping crank and cam reluctors. Lingenfelter sells a converter allowing a late model 58x engine to be controlled by a 24x computer. If using the convertor or changing reluctors I believe the throttle body also must be changed because of the different resistance output by the internal wipers that make up the tps sensor.
24x engines were offered with cable operated throttle bodies and drive by wire. If using electronic throttle control with a 24x controller you must also get a tac module and either a pedal from a 98-05 corvette or 04-05 cts-v or 04-06 GTO (GTO pedal is usually much more costly) - also some truck pedals work but they are oddly shaped and not easily installed in a car without cutting the pedal arm. You will have to fabricate a bracket to mount the pedal.
58x engines are all drive by wire. ( A cable operated throttle body can be installed if the engine is modified to use the 24x reluctor or the lingenfelter converter box is installed or an aftermarket computer used - 58x factory computers do not have the drivers for the idle air control motor which is present on a cable operated throttle body.
24x engines are often controlled by the 12200411 ecm which is common and dirt cheap. Tuning is relatively straight forward for a mild street engine using efilive http://www.efilive.com/ (or other software) after a big learning curve - lots of info on their forum. You could go with an expensive aftermarket ecm but on a mild street car a factory computer with a stock or mild tune and the vats and emissions related codes turned off is all you will need. A stock computer is weather resistant and can be mounted in the engine compartment or above the glove box.
New harnesses are available from eficonnection http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/default.aspx speartech http://speartech.com/ and others. You can have a used harness modified or you can try to build a harness or modify a used harness-which isn't that difficult after studying wiring diagrams but you will need to buy specialized crimps, wire, terminals etc. Wire, terminals, connectors, etc. are all available from eficonnection.com . If you build your own harness I really think you are going to do a lot of head scratching staring at wiring diagrams, searching for things like wire size, terminal type, connector part numbers, deciding which crimper is correct for the terminal etc. but after the first harness is built you will look back as it not being too difficult.
If you want to do everything yourself so you can say I did it myself then go ahead but if you are going to do it thinking you are going to save money I would say think again. My advice for you whether swapping an engine, painting a car etc. is to have plenty of money budgeted before even thinking of turning the first wrench. I can tell you from personal experience that having your car laying in pieces and not enough money or time to finish it sucks.
Unless you are going with a completely stock motor you are going to have to invest in tuning software and a wideband or contact a known tuner.
The lowest profile carb intake I could find for an ls1 is the edelbrock dual plane. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9J7XqsT ... re=related Aleck's car has a carb setup which required cutting the hood brace for clearance. With a different intake manifold, air cleaner and possibly a pan that allowed the engine to be set just a little lower a carb setup might just clear a stock monza hood.
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There are more pics of Aleck's swap in the link at the bottom. Truck composite intakes will not fit under the stock hood. However, car composite intakes will fit and place the throttle body favorably for fitting a cold are intake.
Accessory drives are another issue. If you are building a non-ac, manual steering car then you are set. Power steering can be added using the f-body or ctsv brackets and a fabricated bracket to mount the alternator on the passenger side. If you want ac and ps with a front facing intake then things get ugly. You can't move the alternator up top like a stock monza because the throttle body is there so you would have to push the ac compressor way out on the passenger side which interferes with the inner fender. if forgoing the ps then the alternator could be mounted on the drivers side and the ac mounted on the passenger side.
The truck type water pump would likely just clear the radiator but the f-body corvette/ctsv water pumps offers greater clearance for a puller type fan (No way a manual fan will work.) Corvette/ctsv water pumps offer the most clearance but the f body waterpump may also leave enough room for a puller fan if the engine is located in the stock position with relation to the bellhousing. This is Bill's car with f-body pulleys - corvette/ctsv/g8 waterpump would give about an inch more clearance. His car was non-ac so no heater core interference and I think he positioned the motor using the stock tranny and mount. He also used a stock three core copper radiator. Looks to me like he would have 4+ inches needed for a good puller fan if he used the corvette/ctsv/g8 water pump.
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Jeff Schwartz car looks like he is using a corvette ls3 waterpump and pulleys and a custom alternator mount.
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Jeff Schwartz is using a 16" Spal pusher fan
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Also, the water outlet on a truck water pump is situated so it will interfere with the throttle body when used with the shorter car intake manifold ( truck water pumps, pulleys and brackets are not going to work)
Exhaust manifolds from a rainier/trailblazer are used on the schwartz vega. they clear the steering fine but the outlets end up close to the front a-arm support - as a result I feel they are not a good solution. Bill used the early stamped f-body manifolds with the triangular flanges cut down for frame clearance -cheap and effective. They also fit with the stock steering without the need for the universal joints.
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cts-v exhaust manifolds may also work. holley and speedway motors each have ls exhaust manifolds in the works that appear likely to offer the necessary clearance but they are not presently available and will likely cost $500 or more - not very cost effective.
Headers have been built by a few members. You are going to have to build new exhaust so you might even want to include factory or aftermarket mini cats They are alot smaller than what came stock on our cars. Stock ls manifolds would be good for at least 400+ hp and on a street car headers might not be worth the hassle or cost.
Engine adapters are available from the aftermarket that supposedly situate the engine in the same location as a stock engine based on the location of the bellhousing. These can be used with stock v8 monza mounts. Adjustable mounts that slide forward and aft are also available. I am under the impression that due to the y-block design of the ls engines the engine will need to be installed with it's crank centerline set higher in the chassis in comparison to a small block as there is no way to get the engine low enough with out pan to centerlink interference ( I could be wrong about this ). I am not sure what mounts Jeff Schwartz used to mount the engine in his Vega. I think the ls engine could be adapted easily to the stock 4 cyl and v6 perches without too much trouble if v8 monza perches and mounts are not available.
Update: power by ace has a kit to modify an f body oil pan allowing a ls engine to be located in a h body chassis with the crank centerline and bellhousing mounting surface to be placed in the same location as a factory installed small block.
http://www.powerbyace.com/Technical%20p ... 20mods.htm http://www.powerbyace.com/index.htm
This is the cheapest source for a P/N 12628771 LS1 F-Body Oil Pan.
http://www.superchevyperformance.com/12 ... 628771.htm
Power by ace has there own pickup tube which must be used.

A few oil pans can be made to work but you have to raise the motor (or reposition the motor forward). A modified f-body pan was used by Bill but the welder cut too much and the pan hit the crank. He then went to a Autokraft pan
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hoping it would clear the centerlink but he needed to raise the motor and I think he felt the f-body pan had it been modified properly would have worked better.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=33004&p=187252#p187252
Todd used the Gm Performance eng swap pan lh8/hummer pan which has a nice notch on the passenger side like a stock Monza pan. This pan is cheap too - $160 with windage, tray pickup, dipstick and bolts. http://www.jegs.com/i/GM-Performance/809/19212593/10002/-1?parentProductId=1221210
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Todd moved his engine forward for firewall clearance. Note he has removed his heater box so that when he says his engine is moved forward it may just be located in the same position as if the heater box was installed. Even with the wide radiator he has from his big block there appears to be room for a puller fan when using a corvette/cts-v water pump. With a stock 3 core radiator which should cool a 5.3 or 5.7 It looks like a puller fan should fit. The 2 core radiator that came in non ac cars might even cool a 5.3 or 5.7. This pan also has a sump that extends well below the front crossmember - much too low for a street car and would need to be modified in my opinion - like this - shorten the pickup first then shorten sump a comparable amount.
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Corvette/cts-v/g8 pulleys/accessories are the narrowest and offer the greatest clearance for a puller fan. If you have a non ac manual steering car then use the corvette brackets ( note the alternator might interfere with the drivers side mounted battery requiring a tray from a 4 cylinder car which mounts on the passenger side - which in turn might interfere with a cold air intake. )
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If You are happy with the clearance offered by fbody pulleys which will be about 3/4" less than the corvette pulleys then you have options to move the accessories. You can move the aternator and or ps up high on the drivers side but there may be interference with the battery. Note that I have seen instances where people have used spacers to move the flat nosed corvette waterpump forward so it will align with the fbody pulleys. This will add some clearance between the waterpump and radiator in comparison to using the ls1 pump.
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PacePerformance sells factory accessory drive kits with and without ac and they occasionally run sales with the cost in the $550 range.
If you want ac then things get ugly you can't move the alternator up top like a stock monza when using the composite intake manifolds but you might be able to fabricate brackets to mimic the stock monza accessory layout if using a carb setup. You can mount the power steering high on the drivers side using a factory bracket and the alternator on the passenger side. You can mount the alternator and/or power steering on the drivers side and mount an ac compressor on the passenger side. The ac drier would have to be moved from the firewall to the fender.
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But again with accessories on both sides it might be difficult to mount a cold air intake.
Note that the passenger side cylinder head aligns with the bellhousing mounting surface on an ls this is about an inch or so further back than a small block and is the reason for the interference with the heater box on non-ac cars.
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A common straight neck radiator works better than the curved neck v8 Monza radiator.
Looks like the stock heater core hoses will route nicely to the ls water pump. I also think that Monza radiator supports are recessed forward offering more room then a Vega but I am not positive about this.
Overkill fabrication recently came out with a tubular front crossmember and front frame braces which allow the use of a rack and pinion (possibly even a power rack).
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I would love to know more about this such as how the rack placement affects steering geometry and how much extra pan clearance is afforded. It does look like extra pan clearance is available making oil pan selection less involved - a common f-body pan would likely work fine. The engine likely can be set lower in the chassis. by eliminating the steering box and associated linkage a corvette/ctsv accessory drive could be used with power steering. The steering column linkage would have to be modified with u joints and the factory engine plates would have to modified or new mounts built.
Starting with an ac car (applies to second gen cars only)has the benefit of eliminating heater box clearance issues. The heater box will need to be modified for cylinder head and coilpack clearance.
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=26198&start=0
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It would be nice to have a single large puller fan and if necessary a pusher fan could be added. The stock ls electronics can operate two fans. A spacer could be built on the interior portion of the heater box so that the core does not protrude into the engine compartment as far. In addition I was looking at heater cores on line and noticed that the monza core is 2" thick there are a few cores that a 1" and 1 1/4" thick that could be modified to fit. Darrin (BIGD) built a thinner core out of copper tubing and corrugated aluminum. It might be a good idea to fill the hole in the firewall from the factory heater and go with a compact aftermarket unit that fits entirely inside the car.
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This is Darrin's (BIGD) ls1 vega which is the best example I can find of an ls hbody and has appeared in HOTROD Image
You are going to have to upgrade your fuel system You can spend a lot of money here but I think the simplest solution is an 99-02 ls1 f-body fuel pump with built in reservoir adapted to a stock Monza tank. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=25544&hilit=ls1+fuel+pump 97-98 ls engines ran a fuel line and return all the way to the engine with the regulator at the fuel rail. later ls engines use a regulator located in the tank or near the tank and a single fuel line up to the engine. For a stock engine either will work but since we are talking h-bodies I would recommend using the regulator at the fuel rail with a return back to the tank. That way the fuel constantly circulates and the fuel in the lines in the engine compartment will be less likely to boil. I would use the evap canister from a late model car and mount it back by the gas tank. This would clean up the engine bay and you won't be smelling gas all the time - especially in a garage.
If you wnt the lightweight of an aluminum block and are trying to do this on some sort of budget the get an l33 http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5178/5584278728_eb18716605_m.jpg
Here is all the info I have on the l33:
RPO L33 FOR CHEVROLET SILVERADO AND GMC SIERRA
The Gen III Vortec 5300 is available in a new lighter, higher output variant optional
on some 2005 Silverados and Sierras. RPO L33 will be introduced in short bed, extended
cab versions of these pickups. The L33 features an aluminum engine block, new cylinder
heads and a high-lift cam. Torque will increase, and horsepower is expected to exceed
300 in final production trim.
One of the L33’s distinguishing features is its engine block. As with the 2004 LM4
Vortec 5300, the L33’s foundation is a cast-aluminum block with pressed-in iron
cylinder liners, similar to the block used for GM Powertrain’s LS1 and LS6 car V-8s.
The L33 block is exceptionally light; as a result, a fully dressed L33 is 100 pounds
lighter than cast iron-block Vortec 5300s (RPOs LM7 and L59).
The L33 takes its cylinder heads from the LS6. Originally developed for the Z06
Corvette, these heads improve airflow in and out of the engine. With their pent-roof
combustions chambers and new flat top pistons (the pistons in other Gen III Vortec
5300s have a slight sump in the piston deck), the L33’s compression ratio increases
from 9.5:1 to 9.9:1. This increase improves the engine’s volumetric efficiency yet
still allows it to achieve full power with regular grade gasoline.
Finally, the L33 is equipped with a higher-lift camshaft. Maximum valve lift increases
from 11.6 mm on the LM7 and L59 to 12.5 mm. The new cam and compression ratio are the
primary sources of the L33’s increased horsepower.
The L33 camshaft and cylinder heads were developed in conjunction with the new Gen IV
Vortec 5300 (RPO LH6). The design objective was more horsepower for customers who need
it, without requiring a step up to the Vortec 6000 (and an increase in operational
costs). RPO L33 expands GM Powertrain’s lineup of Vortec V8s and gives GM’s truck
customers even more flexibility and choice.
The L33 Vortec 5300 will be built at Powertrain’s Romulus, Mich., engine plant. With
its introduction, Powertrain will cease production of Vortec 5300 RPO LM4. The Buick
Rainier, Chevrolet Trailblazer EXT and GMC Envoy XL, previously equipped with the LM4,
will now be powered by the Gen IV Vortec 5300 with Displacement on Demand. The 2005
Chevrolet SSR will be powered by the new LS2 truck V-8.
L33/LM4 HO 5.3L FYI:
Gen III V8
2004 LM4 Envoy and Bravada, block casting PN 12566910 AlUMINUM. LS6 design with 96mm
bores on a 99mm liner, so it can be bored out to a 5.7L.
Gen IV V8
2005 L33 Envoy, Trailblazer, SSR, Trucks, etc-others… Block casting PN 12562735
AlUMINUM. Essentially an LS6 block with 96mm liners (that can be safely bored out to
99mm), all short head bolts, 0.5mm step in block cam bores.
L33The L33 (VIN code "B") is an aluminum block version of the LM7, and was referred to
as the Vortec 5300 HO in marketing materials. Power increased by 35 hp (26 kW), to 330
hp (250 kW), over the LM7, and torque was unchanged. It was only available on extended
cab 4WD pickup trucks. Only 25% of trucks made in 2005 had the L33 engine.
L33 applications:
2005–2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4WD
2005–2007 GMC Sierra 1500 4WD
Yes all "L33" (05-07 classics) are gen 3 24x tooth, in the body style change of '07
they were all 58x tooth rel. They were mostly "LY5" I believe.
You need to check and make SURE that the engine you are buying has the BLACK crank
sensor connector (behind the starter) that indicates it IS a 24x engine.
gen iii engines have knock sensors under intake. gen iv engines have the knock sensors
relocated to the side of block to make room for DOD - displacement on demand.
ex. l33 vin 1GCEK19B65E328463 The vin matches up with a 05 4x4 silverado.
Iron block 5.3 and 6.0 liter engines are also dirt cheap.
If you have more money to spend a 97-02(01-02 would be best)corvette or fbody ls1 or ls6 with low mileage, an 03-05 ls2, or an ls3. ( http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/erod/ There is also the erod engine which goes for about 6500 plus at least 2 grand to finish the install but it is new and there is no tuning needed - instant 430 plus hp and torque.
Prior to pulling your gen1 engine I would measure the engine offset in the chassis as well as how high the engine sits - measure both from the crank centerline. I would test fit a junkyard block and heads (there are plastic ls engines available for about $350) with c6 corvette/ctsv/g8 waterpump and lower pulley with either a f-body or the lh8/hummer/gm swap pan and f-body exhaust manifolds to the stock tranny using the stock crossmember to see how close to stock the engine can be positioned. From there you can judge whether to move the engine around and contemplate how doing so will affect fan clearance, exhaust clearance, oil pan clearance, and heater core clearance. From here you can decide whether to proceed forward or scrap the idea entirely. The biggest headache I think will be clearance for a good puller fan. Jeff Schwartz used the shortest water pump made (ls3 corvette) and did not have room for a puller fan but his car is a Vega and a Monza might have the core support further forward since they came with a v8. Also, your car is a 78 and I remember Clyde saying that he thought the later cars had the core support even further forward to make room for the clutch fan that was used on the v8.
Decide what accessories, tranny etc. you are going to run prior to starting your build because changing one thing is likely to cause interference issues requiring other things to be changed which in turn effects something else due to the tight clearances in an hbody engine compartment.
If you have an automatic you might want to step up to a modern 4 speed electronic overdrive transmission. Shift points, torque converter lockup, etc. are controlled by the same computer with a 24x computer or a separate computer with a 58x computer. Shift firmness, shift speed, converter lockup, etc. can be tuned with software (efilive). Overdrive is sweet for long distance driving/mileage. The factory shifter will work with a 4 speed automatic but you will not be able to access L1. However if the shifter arm on the tranny is shortened so that the shifter now accesses all 4 gears with the same amount of travel that is available in the shifter then a new shift detent can be fabricated and new numbers applied to the indicator - probably doesn't make sense but it isn't that hard to do just would be time consuming.
If you have a 4 speed (which I think you do) then you could use the stock bellhousing and cable operated clutch and the saginaw but you are going to need a custom 10.5 flywheel and starter from mcleod and the starter will interfere with the dipstick location. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversio ... wheel.html You could use a quicktime bellhousing or keisler ( or GM) 621 large bellhousing and 11 inch flywheel/clutch setup. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-tech ... ild-4.html The 621 bellhousing will need the bolt hole and the support ridges in the 11 o'clock location ground off like a factory v8 Monza bellhousing. The 621 bellhousing will also require a hydraulic throwout bearing conversion or a modified factory clutch fork can be used and the clutch cable relocated using the kit that was available from Don Hardy. Pilot bearing location is another issue that must be addressed during installation of a transmission designed for a traditional small-block. Standard bearing location in an LSx crankshaft is farther forward than in a Gen I small-block, so if a traditional-style bellhousing is bolted to the rear of an LSx engine, the input shaft on a Gen I-compatible transmission isn't long enough to engage the pilot bearing. The remedy for this is to install GM pilot bearing number 12557583, which is designed to fit the larger diameter bore in the very end of an LSx crankshaft. You can upgrade to a hydraulic clutch using the clutch master from a 98-02 f-body which requires some fabrication. Keisler sells a tko 600 5 speed (and their new rs600 5 speed) which both should bolt in using the stock console, shifter position and boot but needing a custom crossmember, shortened torque arm and driveshaft. Quicktime makes compact bellhousings.
If you have any tunnel clearance issues with a tranny swap I would heat the floorpan and hammer clearance rather than cut the tunnel out ( this may not be an option with some trannies and early cars).

If you just want an engine that starts instantaneously in all weather, and idles smoothly like a modern car then you could keep your gen1 small block. Build a mild but healthy 350 or 383 with good heads and electronic fuel injection and control the engine with the same computer that controls an ls1 using parts available from eficonnection. You would need either a tpi type intake or a holley mpfi intake.
large%20MPFI%20system (Small).jpg
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You could reuse all you accessories, the pan, radiator, hardware and headers.

The first option
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tpi/3 ... nions.html ]
is relatively cheap and uses the 4x reluctor from a 96-2000 vortec motor along with the timing cover and sensor. You would have to use the vortec 1x crab type distributor. You would be using a cable operated throttle body. The computer would be programmed with a stock 01-02 express van tune. the ignition is computer controlled no weights in the distributor
Image Image

The second option
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tpi/4 ... inder.html http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/dfi-e ... d-gen.html
is more expensive and uses eficonnection's 24x reluctor, a vortec timing cover, and a 24x sensor. The 1x vortec distributor would still be used however the crab cab is ditched in favor of a plain cover. You would be running coil near plug ignition just like the ls engine. You would have to use the cable operated throttle body with the holley mpfi intake or if using a tpi intake you can use a cable operate throttle body or add one of eficonnections electronic throttle body. With the cable operated throttle body the computer would use an f-body tune or if using electronic throttle the computer would be programmed with a corvette tune.
Image Image
None of this is cheap but it is definitely cheaper than an ls swap and it gives the option of using modern electronics on a gen1 or gen2 small block. The install would be easier as you have been dealing with gen1 small blocks since you owned the car and virtually no fabrication would be required.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zoitvt0ybuc sean burt's monza true street motorsports texas
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2cdUzU3KWlA
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=26198&hilit=ls1+vega
http://www.schwartzperformance.com/1972 ... ying-turd/
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=434&hilit=picture+story
http://www.nookandtranny.com/Info_LSx.html#LSWaterPump
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=26442
http://tinypic.com/userstuff.php?u=QnkM ... %3D&page=1
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=27025
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversio ... erway.html
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=32760&p=190050#p190050
http://www.flickr.com/photos/schwartzpe ... 4326536706
http://www.woodyshotrodz.com/jegsvega/#15
http://drive4fun.net/era/Era/vega/LS1%2 ... 0pages.htm
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversio ... 1-t56.html
http://www.powerblocktv.com/magazine/?pub=21564 see pages 68-75
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversio ... rings.html
http://www.rebuiltautoengines.com/chevy ... icles.html
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/cc ... index.html
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/cc ... pumps.html
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article ... block.aspx
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversio ... rofit.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-gene ... ckets.html
http://www.stainlessheaders.com/headerfabrication
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/store/A ... 734C0.aspx
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/store/A ... 735C0.aspx
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iv_E8OqEvsg
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/cc ... index.html
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=32760&p=206669#p206669
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=35341
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=25544
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=38881

lh8/hummer oil pan modification http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-h ... 6-gto.html
passenger side top mount alternator bracket works with 98-02 f body / g8/ gto / ctsv alternator bracket http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-h ... ans-3.html
holley has accessory brackets that resemble the corvette brackets but mount the ac high on the passenger side http://www.holley.com/types/LS%20Accessory%20Drives.asp
writeup on using sweet type power steering pump with adjustable pressure volume on cts-v accessory drive bracket
http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-h ... cts-v.html

fitting for converting cts-v power steering pump to an-6
http://www.turnone-steering.com/Cadilla ... _p_32.html
10.5 153 ls flywheel and starter
http://www.marks4wd.com/mfk1947.html
converting mechanical speedometer to electric( simpler/cheaper than converting t56 transmission to mechanical speedometer output
http://www.redlinegaugeworks.com/
http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/5409 ... o-electric
t56 mechanical speedometer conversion
http://www.t56cablespeedometer.com/
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/class ... lence.html
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=201583
electric to mechanical converter for speedometer
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/ ... prd886.htm
adapter palate and input shaft to convert ford 3650 transmission to muncie bellhousing pattern
http://forums.corral.net/forums/94-95-t ... -swap.html
http://www.gforcetransmissions.com/tran_3650.asp
http://www.astroperformance.com/product ... 05dce8c2d7
t45 to muncie bellhousing adapter
http://www.thet45source.com/t45-bell-ho ... er-kit.php
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/domestic- ... rive-shaft
keisler expands on t45 with rs 400/500/600 and ss700 ( when actually becomes available)
http://www.keislerauto.com/Keisler_Auto ... ering.html
standard to metric thread sensor adapters
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dak-s ... /overview/
bill mentions spacers for unmodified pan
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29087

ls cooling system overview
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Cooling/

dbw cruise control retrofit parts
https://www.google.com/search?q=Brandon ... channel=sb

ls oil pan with skid plate similar to autokraft pan
http://pacificfabrication.com/lsx-sheet ... -pans.html

http://www.powerbyace.com
powerbyace is working on an lsx h-body specific pan, mounts, and headers

viper t56 into monza
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/hbo ... 1766400418

note viper tranny uses a much lower tranny mount which will cause crossmember to hang real low - t56 magnum does not have this issue
http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/9238 ... unt-issues


lgt700 transmission similar to t45 but using t56 centerline distance and adaptable features such as shifter location, f body torque arm mount, bolt pattern and input shaft. This transmission should fit without cutting floor/ moving shifter opening and allow stock console.
http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/1095 ... onvertible

lgt700 design specs post #26
http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/1123 ... rail/page4

discusses maintaining tranny angle when moving mount back
http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthrea ... 530&page=2

nice angled adjustable shifter handle
http://www.mgwltd.com/mustang_shift_handle.shtml

HD hydraulic throwout bearing
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showpos ... tcount=370

ctsv pedal to firewall bracket ideas
http://transamcountry.com/community/ind ... ic=67966.0
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthrea ... 512&page=2

gas tank mod for ls1 f body pump similar to what was described
http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/EFI-F ... k-Mods.htm

ctsv alternator passenger side bracket
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... 431&type=3

adapting drive by wire pedal and ctsv hydraulic clutch to firewall
http://www.apiem.com/camaro/LS6PT220140922.asp

simple bracket idea that could be used to convert 76 up clutch pedal to hydraulic master with master facing towards interior.
http://honda-tech.com/honda-crx-ef-civi ... 803/page2/

cable to hydraulic clutch actuator ( where would it be mounted?)
https://www.google.com/search?q=Innovat ... B500%3B256

5th gen camaro starter with heat shield and ctsv exhaust manifolds
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showt ... 6060/page3
another build using hooker manifolds and camaro starter with heat shield
http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-h ... ld-11.html

misc conversion info
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/internat ... ut-ii.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/internat ... ut-ii.html

5.3 mod info
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/projec ... ock-build/

ls1 rear discs brakes
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthrea ... 383&page=5

shortening ls1 parking brake cables and bracket for drum in hat ls1 rear disc conversion
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=161383

using stock cables with ls1 drum in hat rear brakes
http://www.elcaminocentral.com/showthread.php?t=58834
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/thread ... 369/page-5

cheapest source for f body oil pan
https://www.superchevyperformance.com/P ... e=12628771

oil pressure switch saver
http://a1customs.com/ops_saver_oil_pressure_switch.htm

4 wire cruise control stalk for dbw
http://www.gmpartswiki.com/getpage?pageid=59246
http://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/c ... wiring.pdf.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-h ... lever.html
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/show ... p?t=398006
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/show ... 093&page=3
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/show ... p?t=455725

wiring 2 speed volvo fan using pcm to control high low settings
http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-h ... d-fan.html

really good stuff on how to make an ls conversion look like a carbureted small block
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/show ... p?t=668385

coil relocation brackets to clear booster
http://www.brphotrods.com/products/Elec ... index.html

hydraulic clutch conversion
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=45000

shimming throw out bearing
http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transm ... -shim.html

bleeding ls camaro hydraulics
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OWAzZvOJpDs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPcM3nkoq0c

bench bleed master 2nd half video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=91IYY_YENRw
Last edited by monzaaddict on Sat Feb 04, 2017 2:39 pm, edited 145 times in total.
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Re: LS conversion info?

Postby 80 MONZTA » Fri Feb 11, 2011 12:44 am

Excellent overview Monzaaddict. :th:
LeRoy
1980 Monza, 305/Th350 removed for LS1/T-56 swap, can't wait to :burn: My Project
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Re: LS conversion info?

Postby waybad » Fri Feb 11, 2011 6:31 pm

me like it! well done.. I might be able to add my build later? when ever I can get back on it :bang:
Tinker
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Re: LS conversion info?

Postby bill1978v8 » Fri Feb 11, 2011 8:10 pm

Just to add a few things about my swap. My car was an AC car and I didn't have to touch the heater core at all. The Autokraft pan fit with the stock steering box and centerlink with a one inch spacer under the stock engine mounts. The stock steering shaft fit with the F-body manifolds. Let me know if you need more details. I hope to be doing this swap again in the near future.

Bill
1975 Monza 2+2, 4.3L V8, Auto
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Re: LS conversion info?

Postby mahoy78spyder » Fri Feb 18, 2011 10:25 am

Monzaaddict, GREAT GREAT accumulation of info! I am still going through all of the links but I have read through your post 3 times now and have some questions but don't have time to post them just yet because I am working. I just wanted to let you know that I got your post, and Bill's additional info too, because the H-body forum would NOT keep me logged in for anything and I have been unable to post for about a week now. Frustrating, but finally today I can log in and stay logged in without it kicking me out. Either way, I will be back with some other questions that have been raised after reading the various posts.

Also, Monzaaddict, aren't you from Indiana? I am in the process of calling around the junkyards in the Central / West Central Indiana area to see what their prices are on LS motors. Any good leads?

Ken
Ken Mahoy
'78 C06 Monza Spyder
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