When I started my apprenticeship (Mould Maker) we were still using models (made from Fiberglass) I had to do a turn in the model shop making these "models". When we started we would do a good Carnauba paste wax buffed on the "Plug" and then the green release agent the same Release-All you used Doug and then we would re-wax with the paste wax, we used a brush and dabbed so as not to peel the release agent (pretty delicate). And even with all this "lube" they usually put up one H
L of a fight to separate the lay-up from the plug. We however used Epoxy (not the usual polyester) which consisted of a surface resin (a gel-coat) and then laminating resin all two part 50/50 by weight if memory holds. Even in polyester there are different Grades as Doug pointed out, you have the general grade, marine grade, and tooling grade, and I am sure many others now, each with different strengths and shrinkages. I have seen lots of parts made with out the "Gel Coat" which is a thicker resin and is usually tinted for un-painted products, it can be built up quite thick but that adds weight and very little, strength. The strength comes from the cloth (fiberglass) and the resin impregnation, porosity is "death" in FG. This is the reason for the Air bladders (in low volume hand lay-ups) and vacuum (In permanent tooling applications) used in the Carbon Fiber process and now compression moulding (vacuum in permanent steel tooling for FG). I hope this answers some questions/doubts. Harry
I'm not a hoarder I'm a preservationist 78 Monza Spyder (~Soon(ish +/- I guess) To Be 2+2 with Spoilers)