Different front spindles

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Re: Different front spindles

Postby monzaaddict » Tue Jul 19, 2022 3:03 am

I made a chart showing approximately how far upper and lower ball joints would have to be moved (upper-back/lower-forward) for 5 and 10 degrees of added caster, while maintaining spindle pin location. I included measurements for 1/2" taller lower ball joint and for 1/2" and 1" taller upper ball joints. I am sure there is some mathematic formula to get the exact length of distance that ball joint moves using degrees and lengths shown but I don't remember it.

Second chart accurately shows distance ball joint needs to be moved dependent upon distance from spindle pin to center of ball joint pivot and degrees of caster desired to be added. top and bottom ball joints have to be moved accordingly to maintain spindle pin location. If you only move the top or bottom ball joint then the wheel is moved forward or back. if you move both ball joints the wheel stays in the same spot in wheel well. https://www.omnicalculator.com/math/rig ... side-angle
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Re: Different front spindles

Postby monzaaddict » Fri Jul 22, 2022 11:23 am

xx
Last edited by monzaaddict on Sun Jul 24, 2022 6:27 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Different front spindles

Postby monzaaddict » Fri Jul 22, 2022 11:23 am

welding the lower ball joint sleeve 1/4" forward for 5 degrees caster should not be a problem For uppers, I just ordered parts to build adjustable control arms from SPC via summit. 92006 gm mid size ball joint plates, 92040 3 3/4" adjusting sleeves, 94041 offset pivot kit, 944505 reducers allowing the pivot bushings to work with stock 1/2" bolts. The parts should be here in about 2 weeks. https://www.spcalignment.com/race

I found some pictures on this site of cosvega76 adjustable uppers.
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Re: Different front spindles

Postby cjbiagi » Sat Jul 23, 2022 7:21 pm

5 degrees caster would probably work out nicely. Most new cars have a lot of caster, this would put it in the ballpark. The only thing I am not crazy about is Heim joints for a street car. If ride quality and noise is a concern, as it is with me, I choose to stay with rubber. Unfortunately all aftermarket control arms use either poly or Heim joints. GM spends tons of money on NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) to maintain ride quality and I personally hate clunks and suspension noise etc on my car. Just not willing to give that up............
Clyde.........75 Monza 2+2
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Re: Different front spindles

Postby cosvega76 » Sun Jul 24, 2022 7:45 am

Clyde,

I had those heim joints on the car for several years, both the front and rear upper control arms, and did not experience any problem. Of course, I did use high quality teflon-lined joints, and didn't drive in heavily dusty or muddy conditions, either. And I still had the rubber bushings in the lower arms.


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Re: Different front spindles

Postby monzaaddict » Sun Jul 24, 2022 11:33 am

it will look like this but without the cross shaft. The bushings are vulcanized rubber just like the factory. I want to replace the lower eccentrics with a lockout kit similar to what they [global west suspension and classic performance parts (CPP)] offer for early mustangs and chevy IIs. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-_IgY6 ... iwRSv74z6g
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Re: Different front spindles

Postby monzaaddict » Mon Jul 25, 2022 5:20 pm

As far as the lower eccentric lockout kit is concerned, I am going to say it is probably not needed on an h-body. I have never heard of the eccentrics moving and throwing off the front-end alignment. The h-body eccentrics use 5/8" bolts that are torqued to 105ft/lbs. A google search of early Mustangs and Chevy IIs shows numerous threads on the eccentrics moving likely do to the 3/8" bolts torqued to only 65ft/lbs. that they used.
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Re: Different front spindles

Postby monzaaddict » Wed Jul 27, 2022 12:10 pm

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Re: Different front spindles

Postby cosvega76 » Thu Jul 28, 2022 8:17 am

Even easier, requires no math:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/joe-28210

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