I've been thinking about this swap for a while, and this is what I'm planning: step by step. This process corrects the negative camber during the swap, not afterwards.
1) I'm going to get a frame chart and check for frame spread and twist....correct if necessary.
2) I'll establish some baseline measurements....final tire radius, distance from floor to frame, etc... prior to the car being disassembled.
3) "Jack stand" the front of the car and disassemble front end.
4) Next, both upper and lower control arms will receive new poly bushings
5) Both upper control arms will be modified to accept S10 upper balljoints....S10 balljoints will be installed.
6) Next the upper and lower control arms will be mounted on car (no springs or shocks), with all of the control arms in middle of their adjustment range.
7) Next the lower S10 ball joints will be mounted in the spindles, then the spindles will be mounted on the upper ball joints, hanging on the car.
I plan to use a fixture based on previous measurements to HOLD the spindle at the correct wheel height and at zero camber.
9) Then swing the lower control arm up, to meet the lower ball joint (mounted on the spindle).
Next, mark the location of the lower ball joint on the mating lower control arm.
10) Then remove the lower control arm and install a S10 lower ball joint sleeve centered on the previously marked location. Install lower S10 ball joint.
11) Reassemble both sides with springs and shocks.... the end result should not have excessive negative camber or require special adjusters, and it should work with each unique car.
At this point, this is all untried theory, but it is worth a try since there is negative camber built into this swap, even if the car being updated is perfectly straight and square.
All comments and corrections are welcome. I have no one else to ask.
75 Vega hatchback, EFI 5.3L/t350 swap kit, street/strip, budget build in progress