Lowering rear?

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Lowering rear?

Postby monzaxxx » Wed Nov 07, 2007 5:08 am

Has anyone lowered the rear end by cutting the coils in a monza chassis? If so, a ratio for how much cutting versus lowering would be great. [ie 1 coil on top, 1/2 coil bot, 1/2 coil top etc] And what effect on rear end centering bias was experienced
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Postby AusRs » Wed Nov 07, 2007 6:29 am

personally i would get a set of 3rd gen f body springs and cut them first to see what happens :)
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Postby cjbiagi » Wed Nov 07, 2007 7:51 am

I lowered mine this way but you can only cut the top because the lower end is pigtailed to fit on the lower mount. I don't know the ratio, but just go in small amounts if you are unsure. I believe I cut 1 coil off but that was probably 25 years ago, so I can't be positive.
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Postby NixVegaGT » Wed Nov 07, 2007 9:26 am

I've cut mine but I don't know how they worked out yet... I keep getting backed up. I'm hoping to have the suspension in by summer. That's a bit of a long wait I'm afraid...
- Nic '73 Vega GT "DogBoxx" Batwing LS1
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Postby hammerdown7 » Wed Nov 07, 2007 11:38 pm

I agree with Clyde, go slowly, 1/4 to 1/2 coil at a time. Make sure the top of the spring is seated in its pocket when you replace it. I don't think you can determine the installed height car to car and spring to spring by how much coil is removed. It depends on whether the spring has weakened over its life. Remember also that the more coils you cut the stiffer your ride will be.
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Postby monzaxxx » Thu Nov 08, 2007 12:17 am

Thanks guys! Since this is a pair of spare springs, I'll try cutting them although it may be difficult to cut in intervals other than whole turns as the clocking for the spring mounts will be altered and past 1 coil on the top, the spring becomes much more progressive.
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Postby cjbiagi » Thu Nov 08, 2007 7:59 am

On the rear you can cut in intervals and still rotate it to index in the upper mount. It doesn't matter where the bottom of the spring is, it's just a circle that goes over a raised mount.
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Postby monzaxxx » Thu Nov 08, 2007 12:46 pm

Thanks Clyde, I thought that on the uppers, the metal cone style spring pocket stopper was also indexed to the body [floor stamping] but hopefully its not and will rotate 360 deg without issues. Then I'll try a 1/2 coil and measure the drop after the spring settles with its new spring constant value. I'm looking for the same amount of lowering as your car and will machine the curved panard rod the same way to recenter the rearend. BTW, Ive noticed the 75 rod uses the same end bushings as F bodys but the straight versions use a smaller one for the body side?!
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Postby hammerdown7 » Thu Nov 08, 2007 7:10 pm

The cone shaped piece is indexed to the body but it doesn't matter, you just need to rotate the new end of the spring to the stop.

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Postby cjbiagi » Thu Nov 08, 2007 7:40 pm

I believe you are correct about the 75 panhard bar bushings. I used Camaro ones but I seem to recall having to modufy them slightly to fit into the frame. It was a long time since I did that, so the memory is a bit vague. Either way, you'll figure it out once you get there or just ask if you have any problems. I used a teflon lined heim joint on one end to make it adjustable.
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