Changing to manual steering

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Postby HI WINDING MONZA » Tue Jan 15, 2008 3:10 pm

The manual shaft is held in by plastic pins that required heating in my case to separate it from the column after trying to remove them while in the car . Thats why I took out the whole deal as one piece. I replaced them with roll pins.

Steering Shaft Removal from an earlier post :






I wrote:
I got one end off ( splined one by the steering box) but how do you get the other end off ? ( by the firewall ) Looks like spot welds on the d- stock where it goes into the round . What is the purpose of that clamp up near the firewall on the shaft? Do I have to pull the whole column? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Doug in Az


littlevega56 wrote :

doug those two spot welds .Are plastic pins.When theres an an accident the shaft will collapse so the wheel wont go in your chest.If you need to take the column out .You have removed the clamp on the steering box. So all you need to do now is remove the screws on the tryangle plate on the column , on the floor pan. and of corse your dash bolts and wiring connector. put your seat all the way back to get it out. Or i have removed the pins in the steering shaft with a punch. To just take the lower shaft section out.


heapster Wrote :


The non-tilt's up until at least '75 don't have a "rag joint. you have to pull the whole thing.

I wrote :


So, I just get rid off those plastic pins, and the shaft part under the hood should slide apart? I was hoping not to remove the column if all possible. I will have to install a ujoint in that location to clear my new motors exhaust manifold. My guess on the upper clamp is it is there to hold the shaft from going in the column farther. Its 1980 manual steering. Marco, the ( firewall) clamp is now loose, and slides on the 3/4 DD stock shaft. Doug in Az


Hoonbash Wrote:


Wrap some cloth around the lower shaft,latch on some vise-grips and hammer it out,could be the nylon pins are catching.

I wrote:

Heated it up today and it came apart , must of been the NY ghost rust ( thanks to all for the advice! ). Ended taking the whole column out and putting it in a vice to disassemble it. Clyde , you are right , it is all one piece, unless you take out the plastic pins to separate the shaft in the engine bay. With the new motor in the way, the shafts just wouldn't come apart. Its basicly a solid shaft up by the wheel ( 12" long) that goes into a hollow tube that attaches to the other solid shaft at the bottom end of the column. The upper shaft slides up and down freely into the hollow tube about 6 " with the bottom shaft held in with those 2 plastic "shear pins". Doug in AZ 8)
Last edited by HI WINDING MONZA on Tue Jan 15, 2008 3:52 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Postby spyder_xlch » Tue Jan 15, 2008 3:21 pm

Aren't the plastic pins in there so they will collapes in an accident? I don't think roll pins are a good idea. Do you even need to have any pins in there?
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Postby HI WINDING MONZA » Tue Jan 15, 2008 3:35 pm

Since my shaft was twists and bends it was not needed. ( it will collapse naturally )Someone said to fill the 2 holes in with a glue gun with the " Stock " straight shaft. Doug in Az 8)
My Old Monza now lives in Arizona with its newest owner.

The 90's just keep rollin' along........
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1992 Pontiac Sunbird Coupe 2.0 OHC MPFI I4 TH125C 157k miles
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Postby NHRA Stk Starfire » Wed Jan 16, 2008 8:16 am

So here are the parts I will be looking for;

Manual gear box and shaft from S-10 or Monza
Spindles from S-10
Calipers/rotors from S-10

My question now is,what year S-10 should I shoot for? Go to this site to locate parts;

http://www.car-part.com/

I assume that the Monza box maybe getting hard to find in the salvage yards.
For the S-10, should I try for maybe 85 or 90,as a search option?
Also,as I may be putting in longer wheel studs at some point,should I be concerned that the S-10 rotors have metric studs? Or look for rotors with standard studs?
Rick

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Factory 305 / Auto
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Postby spyder_xlch » Wed Jan 16, 2008 8:32 am

You can always put bigger (diameter) studs in it. The metric are 12mm i think. So you could probably find 1/2 studs with the same knurl size on them.
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Postby heinz057 » Wed Jan 16, 2008 11:45 am

the manual steering box i used was from an 87 s10. just make sure it has 4 bolts on the top cover. you can also use the spindles and brakes from that year that is 2wd.
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Postby bill1978v8 » Wed Jan 16, 2008 7:21 pm

So is the pitman arm the same between the Monza manual and the Monza power box? I didn't see a confirmation on that.

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Postby heinz057 » Wed Jan 16, 2008 7:41 pm

the monza power pitman arm will fit on the s10 manual box (4bolt top)
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Postby cosvega76 » Thu Jan 17, 2008 12:05 pm

bill1978v8 wrote:So is the pitman arm the same between the Monza manual and the Monza power box? I didn't see a confirmation on that.

Bill


No, the pitman arms are different between the Monza manual and Monza power. The splines are different sizes.

Chuck
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Postby bill1978v8 » Thu Jan 17, 2008 1:25 pm

I know they are between the vega box and the monza box but Monza to monza are different? Do you know the spline count. Also the center link is showing different P/N's for manual and power?

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Postby cosvega76 » Fri Jan 18, 2008 11:31 am

Yes, Monza manual and Monza power are different. The manual has a pitman shaft about 1-3/16" in diameter, while the power has a spline about 1-1/4" in diameter. The Monza used the same type of manual box as the Nova and Chevelle. It is larger, and has a longer input shaft than the Vega manual box.

There is no difference between the Monza manual and power center links because the Monza manual box is larger. The Vega manual center link is different because the box is smaller.

The power steering/ Monza manual center link has the ball stud for the pitman arm adjacent to the boss for the left inner tie rod connection. The Vega manual center link has an extra inch or so of space between the ball stud and boss.

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Postby bill1978v8 » Sat Jan 19, 2008 4:08 pm

Thanks for the info Chuck.

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