Is there anything easy to do on a Vega?----rear control arms

Moderator: Moderators

Is there anything easy to do on a Vega?----rear control arms

Postby JohnP » Sat Mar 29, 2008 5:49 pm

Crap, what an ordeal trying to put on my Spohn tubular rear control arms. I would think this would be easy, I worked on it all day and didnt finish.

I drilled the upper arms mount holes to 1/2 no problem. Unbolted the rear shock mount and was able to lower the rear enough to get the drill in the top mount. Installed one upper no problem, tried the second and it will not line up. I was wrestling the rear so much to get it to line up I pulled the driveshaft out of the trans, oh crap. I can't move the rear enough by myself to get it back in. So, now thinking maybe its better to install lowers first. I disconected the one upper I had bolted in at the diff. So, I'll get the lowers on since they are not adjustable and will position the rear better, hopefully the upper will then go on easier, I sure hope one of my mounts is not twisted.

Even getting the old bolts out of the front of the lower arms was a pain, I had to drop my exhaust to get the mufflers out of the way so I could drive out the bolt with a hammer.


I'm I going about this all wrong? I probably should do the lower arms first?
JohnP
 



Postby v8astregt » Sat Mar 29, 2008 7:38 pm

They can be an EXTREME pain in the ass. I've probably spent a total of over 10 hours over the years trying to get the uppers in.



Luckily now I can get them in within minutes. I always do the lowers first. Then get one top arm in. Then at this time, the other upper will not drop into place. What I've found helps with the geometry is to jack up the opposite side of the rearend... meaning if you are trying to get the driver's side arm in... put the jack under the passenger's side of the rearend, and jack it up. It has always worked for me.
75 Pontiac Astre GT: 406SBC/TH350, roll bar, S10 goodies, down to 11.47 so far, more to come later.
v8astregt
 
Posts: 2789
Joined: Sun Jun 25, 2006 4:13 pm
Location: Gilbert, AZ

Postby rustorbust » Sat Mar 29, 2008 8:21 pm

I feel your pain, I just made a set of adjustables for the lower ones and spent all last weekend trying to put them in. My hardest part was getting the alluminum spacers at the correct thickness. I think my 10 month old baby heard all the cuss words in the book last weekend!
rustorbust
 
Posts: 216
Joined: Tue Jun 27, 2006 10:47 pm
Location: San Diego, CA

1973 Chevrolet Vega

Postby cjbiagi » Sat Mar 29, 2008 9:00 pm

It's also harder if you are using poly or any other type of solid bushing. The rubber ones can be a little more forgiving if the alignment isn't perfect. With poly's if it doesn't line up perfectly you are going to have a real problem.
Clyde.........75 Monza 2+2
User avatar
cjbiagi
 
Posts: 8608
Joined: Sun Jun 25, 2006 2:37 pm
Location: Glenwood, Illinois

1975 Chevrolet Monza

Postby JohnP » Sun Mar 30, 2008 9:26 pm

:D :D finally, control arm install is done. Phew!!

Doing the bottoms first was way to go. Then the uppers, one upper went in easy the second was tough, but it eventually went in, its not perfectly square in the mount on the diff, is just off a hair I don't think it should give me a problem. Also unbolting the bottom shock mount helped make it easier to move the rear around. I even was able to get the driveshaft back in the trans without unbolting it from the diff.

I used new grade 8 bolts. I did see on one lower front mount a slight crack near the bolt hole, I'll have to get that welded before I push the car hard.


These Sophn arms sure look nice under the car.
JohnP
 


Postby spyder_xlch » Mon Mar 31, 2008 6:21 pm

Post pics. Don't forget about the new product review section and also send Steve some pics for his website.
User avatar
spyder_xlch
 
Posts: 4693
Joined: Sat Apr 14, 2007 4:14 pm
Location: Northeast PA

1979 Chevrolet Monza 2+2

Postby JohnP » Tue Apr 01, 2008 7:44 pm

here's a picture, not the greatest. don't think its a good enough to use on Steve's site, but you can see the Spohn arms in place.

I have to remove the lube fitting on the front lower ones. The traction bars will hit it. Can plug with small bolt and put fitting back in when it needs lubing. Not a big deal

Suggestion to Steve to relocate it to be more front.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
JohnP
 


Postby spyder_xlch » Tue Apr 01, 2008 7:55 pm

The pic isn't bad. It's a race car, not a show car. I'd still send the pic, maybe he won't use it but I'm sure he'd like the feedback. Good idea on moving the zerk fitting. Not everyone will have traction bars but pointing straight down might catch some road debris and shear it off. It's probably up to high for that though.
User avatar
spyder_xlch
 
Posts: 4693
Joined: Sat Apr 14, 2007 4:14 pm
Location: Northeast PA

1979 Chevrolet Monza 2+2

Postby gt350fme » Tue Apr 01, 2008 8:10 pm

Sweet, I want some. let us know how they ride.
1964 Chevy panel K30
1973 GT Vega Hatchback
1977 Chevy K20
1984 944 porsche
1992 Lexus SC 400
User avatar
gt350fme
 
Posts: 626
Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 9:40 pm
Location: North coast California

1973 Chevrolet Vega GT

Postby JohnP » Wed Apr 02, 2008 9:53 am

Ride was fine. I did not notice any big different in ride quality.
JohnP
 



Return to Suspension, Steering, & Brakes Tech

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests

cron