New tubular front control arms!

[res0o7eb]

Justin,

Your control arms for the Vega look like no others. Definitely unique and very sturdy. Good craftsmanship, too.
Can you build a set of upper and lowers in the $500-$600 range for street-driven cars?
May be too much to ask considering time and effort involved and the need to make a profit and all.
Someone offers fully-adjustable uppers for around $250, but no lowers.
Thought I'd ask.

[overkillrc]

Justin,

Your control arms for the Vega look like no others. Definitely unique and very sturdy. Good craftsmanship, too.
Can you build a set of upper and lowers in the $500-$600 range for street-driven cars?
May be too much to ask considering time and effort involved and the need to make a profit and all.
Someone offers fully-adjustable uppers for around $250, but no lowers.
Thought I'd ask.

i will have to look into that problem is making them adjustable is what makes them more if you arn't worried about them being adjustable it would be easier. doing them from mild steel would help as well.

thanks for the kind words also,
Justin

[JohnP2]

Justin
+1, I'll agree, very sturdy looking unique products, look very well made.

Could you tell us about the K-member.
I like that a rack mount can be incorporated. Does the k-member mount where the stock one would have mounted? Or is it welded to the frame rails?
Oil pan clearance? Does the member put the rack in position so the stock style front suspension (OE or tubular A-arms) can be used?

[283vega]

Justin
Great looking stuff on your web site!. I think you should concentrate on the front a arms and the front crossmember and an adjustable torque arm and crossmember to mount it to cars that did not have it or have a entirely different trans.In other words do the stuff the other guys won't do.Alot of the guys here will want a sway bars mount on the front arms. Also guys here may be interested in boxed reconditioned arms with the s 10 ball joint as an option.Thats my 2 cents worth, Thanks for listening

[overkillrc]

Justin
+1, I'll agree, very sturdy looking unique products, look very well made.

Could you tell us about the K-member.
I like that a rack mount can be incorporated. Does the k-member mount where the stock one would have mounted? Or is it welded to the frame rails?
Oil pan clearance? Does the member put the rack in position so the stock style front suspension (OE or tubular A-arms) can be used?

thank you very much

my K-member bolts in to the stock location, no welding required. there is more oil pan clearance with my K-member. the rack is set up so you can connect it to the stock steering arms connectong it to the steering column can be interesting but it can be done. the rack must be a narrowed rack as well to help with bump steer.

[overkillrc]

Justin
Great looking stuff on your web site!. I think you should concentrate on the front a arms and the front crossmember and an adjustable torque arm and crossmember to mount it to cars that did not have it or have a entirely different trans.In other words do the stuff the other guys won't do.Alot of the guys here will want a sway bars mount on the front arms. Also guys here may be interested in boxed reconditioned arms with the s 10 ball joint as an option.Thats my 2 cents worth, Thanks for listening

thank you,

right now control arms arm my main focus (gonna try to get a couple sets built so i can ship on order) the torque arm may take some time i need to get a torque arm car in first for measurements and what not. and yep thats what i'm looking to do is alot of stuff they won't do. i will have to work on sway bar mounts. i have considered the recon idea and think it is an excellent idea.

anyone think there would be any market for producing the lower control arm bolts with the eccentric washers?

[monzajer]

Justin, I think you will probably find a market for the LCA bolts. I know a lot of guys have a very tough time removing them when changing bushings, making crack repairs or changing the older Vega arms to the deeper spring pocket Monza arm.

Due to the age of the cars and the known "rust factor" most of the time these bolts are just trash when removed, if not broken. So, yes, I think there is a need for them. As more guys get to working on their cars and find how your LCAs work there may be even more call to replace the bolts.

Not sure if everyone that may need the bolts will find this particular entry here, because they are not interested in the change out of the arms. A lot of peeps prefer to keep the stock arms so a separate post in the "general discussion" may be a good idea.

Thanks again for tackling these issues for us. You ROCK!

cheers jer

[80 MONZTA]

The bolts can be ordered from almost any parts store, I bought some a few weeks ago.

[my79monza]

Justin,
With the LCA set up for coil overs what coil over shock are they running with your set up.
Yours have been for drag cars are the shocks streetable?
When a LCA is available with the deep spring pocket and sway bar mount please let us know as I believe you will have a winner then.
Those arms are awesome.

Merle

[overkillrc]

Justin,
With the LCA set up for coil overs what coil over shock are they running with your set up.
Yours have been for drag cars are the shocks streetable?
When a LCA is available with the deep spring pocket and sway bar mount please let us know as I believe you will have a winner then.
Those arms are awesome.

Merle

the shocks end up being the same as a second gen camaro so any shock that will work for them will work for h-bodies(just have to get the street version) . i'm hoping to have spring pocket parts this week (that would be a miracle!!!!!) not sure if it will be deep pocket or not i have seen 4 or 5 sets of h-body LCA's and they all looked the same other than the ball joint so not sure what i have seen. but with the pocket i designed i can make it virtually any depth. but i will get brackets figured out for sway bars no problem.

and thank you for the compliment.

Justin

[Roccosvega]

Justin, I really like your control arms but me not being a suspension guy i would not know witch caster degree to go with.
I do plan on using a swaybar . When doing a front end alignment with these do you keep taking them off and on til you
get it?(As far as getting camber just right).I don't know to much about that kind of stuff.

Robert

[overkillrc]

Justin, I really like your control arms but me not being a suspension guy i would not know witch caster degree to go with.
I do plan on using a swaybar . When doing a front end alignment with these do you keep taking them off and on til you
get it?(As far as getting camber just right).I don't know to much about that kind of stuff.

Robert

Robert,

thank you for the compliment. the amount of caster depends on what you plan to do with the car. the more positive caster you have the car will want to drive straight more then turn (good for drag racing 7-10* isn't unheard of) if you just plan to street drive it 2-5* positive would be good although there are hundreds of thousands of cars out there running negative caster from the factory but i wouldn't do it. i believe when the factory was running them in the negative it was to mask some screwed up geometry in the rest of the system.

the jigs for my control arms are set to 0*,2.5* and 5* of additional positive caster i can do any of the three for the upper and lower arms (0* being same as factory) so i could do uppers at 2.5* and lowers at 0* and your alignment guy can get it the rest of the way so it can be fine tuned to where he wants it for the type of driving your gonna do. i mostly do 2.5* and 2.5* as most of the guy's i have built them for are drag racers that gives them 5* from the start and they can get a few more with adjustment of the factory adjusters.

for adjusting them you would adjust them with the facory adjusters and if you couldn't get the #'s you were looking for that way then start adjusting the c-arms.

hope that helps
Justin

[cjbiagi]

Is there any way to make these with rubber bushings? I am just not into Heim joints on a street car, Something like these http://www.speedwaymotors.com/QA1-Adven ... ,9387.html

[overkillrc]

Is there any way to make these with rubber bushings? I am just not into Heim joints on a street car, Something like these http://www.speedwaymotors.com/QA1-Adven ... ,9387.html

been trying to think of how to make them with a uerethane bushing but haven't come up with a way yet. those rod ends i think are to wide and are fairly expensive..alot more then heim joints anyway. i could make some unadjustable arms using bushings but not sure if they would sell much. i am leaning more towards racers then streetcar guy's and don't really want to carry 6 different styles of arms either.

[monzajer]

Ah, shoot, there goes the neighborhood!

Justin, it is understandable that you don't want to carry many different arms, but there is already some racer arms out there. AJE makes them. NOBODY seems to want to tackle the street end of this niche. As many of the inquiries on this post are from street guys I sure would like it if you would consider doing some for us lowly street guys. I am quite confident you could sell a number of them if you did. Clyde was asking about the rubber bushings because of the noise inherent with Heim joints,.....on the street. I'm fairly sure he is inquiring for the street side. Please, reconsider and do something for us. PLEASE! Heck I am ready to buy some right now if they have the sway bar mount AND are for the street.

Any other street guys want some of these great looking arms??? Let's show some support. Heck, no one else wants to make these. Let's show Justin how much we want these made for us.

cheers jer