Ft spirng removal pictorial (part 1 & 2 )

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Ft spirng removal pictorial (part 1 & 2 )

Postby Len » Sat Jul 17, 2010 3:53 pm

Well here it goes . I in no way, shape or form accept responsibility for any damages or injuries incurred using this procedure. this is not the safest way to perform this procedure !!!!!!!!!!
Springs are under high tension and if in doubt about what your doing seek professional help.
Len
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Last edited by Len on Sat Jul 17, 2010 4:17 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Ft spirng removal pictorial (part 2 )

Postby Len » Sat Jul 17, 2010 4:01 pm

Once again if in doubt seek professional help as I accept no responsibility for damages or injuries using this procedure.
Len
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Re: Ft spirng removal pictorial (part 1 & 2 )

Postby chevy art » Sat Jul 17, 2010 5:00 pm

len. good show on this tricky job. first i guess the fork initially loosenthe ball joint from spindle, and i guess you leave the nut on for safety until it must come off to get shaft through the spindle and the rest i see. now i am trying to visualize the installing on the new springs. is it best to have the 2 bolts in place attaching the control arm to the chassis houning first to be the pivot point.. next , wuold you want the new ball joint in place or would you want to install it later due to the angle of control arm maybe not letting the ball joint shaft into the spindle hole , or doest it just line up easily as the spring is compressed near the top. most importantly is it hard to get spring in to control arm and start it upwards with the jack being able to get under it due to the angle of everything when nothing is compressed yet. sure hope you can explain that question(or maybe one of the other guys can) i am just trying to think lens disassembly backwards to install the new stuff. maybe its not as easy as i hope thanks art
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Re: Ft spirng removal pictorial (part 1 & 2 )

Postby Ishiftem » Sat Jul 17, 2010 6:02 pm

I might add that Len's procedure only works with an engine in the car for weight.
Any one can restore a car but, it takes a real man to cut one up.
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Re: Ft spirng removal pictorial (part 1 & 2 )

Postby chevy art » Sat Jul 17, 2010 9:46 pm

thanks dan got that part added to my notes art
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Re: Ft spirng removal pictorial (part 1 & 2 )

Postby Len » Sun Jul 18, 2010 2:38 am

Again I take no responsibility for damage or injury and this is why. This is the lower contoll arm full of rust that was at the bootom of the spring.
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Thanks Art ,
there were a lot of questions re this . No doubt there is a lot of info in the pics I supplied . But the most important you did pic up on leave the nut on while separating the ball joint from the spindle for safety. there are a couple of other safety things in place also like another floor jack at the ft of the car and the tire under the car along with the jack stand under the car !!!!
If your lower-ball joint is fine and you do not plan to replace. the fork is not the way to go the double hammer treatment will separate the joint from the spindle . Just be sure the is a jack under the lower control arm for your safety as a catchit if the nut don't hold.
The install is a little harder as the spring going in also needs persuasion and indexing but once in the pocket just tie the lower control arm back as far as you can and index the spring and rubber . Then jack it up until the lower ball joint is close make sure they line up and jack some more put the nut on . Ect
Ishiftem .
No dis intended : but I did this on a 80 spider last month no eng trans, sway bar drag link pitman arm , tier rods , fenders and the car did not lift of of the jack stand. Would love to here about your problems re this .
Len
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Re: Ft spirng removal pictorial (part 1 & 2 )

Postby Ishiftem » Sun Jul 18, 2010 3:14 am

My car is in the same state of disassembly. Car was stripped of everything from the firewall forward. Its a vega with Moog v8 monza springs. I lifted the entire front of the car off the ground without compressing the spring. That was my experience. I have used your method before on numerous cars to change springs with no problems, but they all had engines in them. Maybe if it had the stock 4 cyl springs I wouldn't of had a problem.
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Re: Ft spirng removal pictorial (part 1 & 2 )

Postby AusRs » Sun Jul 18, 2010 8:00 am

Ishiftem wrote: I lifted the entire front of the car off the ground without compressing the spring. That was my experience. change springs with no problems, but they all had engines .


same here !
i re installed my springs with a 2x4 wedged up on the roof on my garage(which is the concrete floor of my house !
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Re: Ft spirng removal pictorial (part 1 & 2 )

Postby Fasterthansome » Sun Jul 18, 2010 2:39 pm

Image
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Re: Ft spirng removal pictorial (part 1 & 2 )

Postby Len » Sun Jul 18, 2010 2:46 pm

Wow maybe were onto something here . this is a 262 but still has the eng in it or at least most of it. So I would have to assume that the springs would be the V8 version . Perhaps it might be only the v8 springs that require the extra weight of the eng to compress the springs ? cause the 80 spider was a 6cyl . Do either of you have the wire dia and out of the car length measurement for the springs you installed would like to compare to see if my springs have collapsed .
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Re: Ft spirng removal pictorial (part 1 & 2 )

Postby Ishiftem » Sun Jul 18, 2010 5:46 pm

Fasterthansome wrote:Image

Thats the same style compressor I use for my vega. I have about 5 different styles from Kent Moor to Craftsman and the snap on that looks like the one you picture is the only one that I found fits. I put the hook deal up through the spring and that plate under the control arm. Works perfectly with no fuss.
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Re: Ft spirng removal pictorial (part 1 & 2 )

Postby 72 SS PNL » Sun Jul 18, 2010 5:56 pm

pickle forks arent good to use if you want to keep the ball joint boot in good shape

id use a 3lb sledge hammer and hit the spindle next to the ball joint , and a chain or cable wrapped around a couple coils can keep the spring from flying out
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Re: Ft spirng removal pictorial (part 1 & 2 )

Postby Fasterthansome » Sun Jul 18, 2010 5:58 pm

I cant recall what brand mine is but Autozone has the same style on there loan a tool program.
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Re: Ft spirng removal pictorial (part 1 & 2 )

Postby 80 MONZTA » Sun Jul 18, 2010 10:47 pm

Len, my V-8 springs measure .615 wire diameter and 14 1/2" out of car height.
My car is a 1980, so these springs were out of a junkyard V-8 with A/C Monza. I had them put in shortly after buying car in 1990 as it was just too low, wish I had saved the old ones now that the much lighter LS-1 is going in. Speaking of that, I had the LS-1 sitting in car with the turnbuckles holding it in place, putting jack under control arm would not compress springs, just lifted whole thing up. The front bumper, nose, hood, radiator and steering apparatus were not on car, so that may have been enough weight to effect it considerably.
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Re: Ft spirng removal pictorial (part 1 & 2 )

Postby Len » Mon Jul 19, 2010 2:51 am

Thanks Monzta I got 14' so maybe there a little saged or baged lol its just a parts car that i dont own .It is patric 1151 car and I had time to help out. and took the time , but remember people do not tighten any part of the suspension until the car is sitting with a full load of gas . eng on the ground other than ball joints . tie rods . Either wise you are pre loading the bushings .
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