tubular control arms

[72vega383]

I am thinking of changing to adjustable tubular front control arms in my vega. Right now I have stock control arms with s10 conversion. I would like a set that can utilize the s10 stuff. Also need to be able to use coil springs. Need to be good for street use and hopefully quiet.

I believe the stock arm on the passenger side is bent or twisted a the wheel is not centered in the wheel and bends the fender in when I turn.

If anyone knows who makes them that will work and are hopefully reasonably priced. or if anyone can provide plans to make them please pm

appreciate it

[garysol1]

Give Justin a call. I am not sure if he is selling products or not right now......

http://www.overkillracecars.com/Products.html

[72vega383]

thanks for the suggestion. they look to be some really quality parts. just a little to expensive for me. I am sure I could make my own if only had some blueprints to build from. I have all the equipment necessary.

[cjbiagi]

If indeed the arm is bent you could pick up a good used one fairly cheap. You can also install offset control arm bushings to help dial in the alignment as a less expensive option.

[72vega383]

Made the FRONT upper and lower control arms for one side and tried them on today. I made the lowers without the drop that the original has, instead they are level right across, to make up for the drop of the stock arms I fabbed a new pocket for the lower control arm to mount in. The holes in the new pocket are just under 2.5" lower than the stock holes. I made the arms with s10 Bjs and control arm bushings that are widely available and will be for a long time. I also made the upper adjustable in order to adjust camber. I buttoned it all up today and tried it out. The car sits 25 1/4" from ground to fender lip only one quarter inch higher than the drivers side with the stock control arms. I have 3 degrees of positive caster and can adjust it some more if I wanted to. Camber is completely adjustable but I set it to 0.5 degrees negative. Still uses the stock Monza v6 with air coils. Think I might go with something a bit heavier rate or slightly taller.

I have a few questions for some of the suspension gurus. I do not know very much about body roll, chassis roll, roll centre and centre of gravity in relation to suspension. so I was wondering because I moved the control arm mounts 2.5" lower than factory because my arms do not have a drop. does that have any effect on the way it will handle? better or worse?

My LCA sits parallel with the ground there is no downward angle like the stock ones.

Any suggestions, questions and concerns are welcome. also if anyone can answer my question on the lower control arms relocation please chime in. thanks alot

[72vega383]

Anyone?

[cjbiagi]

You alignment setting sound very good for a street car. The lower control arm should be basically level with the ground at normal ride height. That angle will vary depending upon how the ride height is, so I assume this is with the engine in the car and fully loaded? The tie rods should also end up parallel with the lower control arm and ideally the upper control arm should be level or pointing upward slightly. This will give you a negative camber curve if everything is correct. Obviously there is a LOT more that goes into designing a suspension and steering but it sounds like you are on the right path.

[72vega383]

Engine in, fully loaded, tie rods are level and so is the lower control arm to the ground. The upper arm looks like it may be pointing down slightly a few degrees. Do you thing that would be an issue? Thanks for the reply and kind comments.

[ROB]

If the upper is tilting down on the chassis side, good. On the spindle side, not so good. Performance handling wise that is. Sounds like you did pretty good. Show some pics please.

[72vega383]

If the upper is tilting down on the chassis side, good. On the spindle side, not so good. Performance handling wise that is. Sounds like you did pretty good. Show some pics please.

Thanks I wi definately get some pics up as soon as I get the chance. What kind if problems would I be looking at because the upper arm Is pointing down on the spindle side?

Thanks again

[ROB]

If it tilts down on the spindle side, when you turn a corner the tire will want to tuck under because of body roll. Way to much positive camber. Spindle down on chassis side does the opposite. Induces negative camber, then with body roll, your tire should remain nearly flat and have good contact with the ground.

[72vega383]

Alright that make sense. Because my uppers are angled toward the spindle when I turn the top of the tire will push out giving a positive camber curve. The arms are all welded up and impossible to take apart now. Would there be any way I can correct this without changing my ride height as I have it exactly where it needs to be?

Maybe a spacer between the upper bj and spindle?
Taller spindle? Or maybe make some relocation brackets to bring the top mounts lower?

Any ideas?

[ROB]

There is the idea of using an 80's 1/2 ton truck upper ball joint. The bolt holes are a bigger spread, but it's supposed to give you an extra 1/2 inch. Is that enough? Otherwise, you can live with it, just won't be as much fun as a track car. More like my wife's minivan.

[72vega383]

I will look into the 80s truck upper ballpoint? As long as there isn't too much modification. The arms was just slightly pointing down it seemed a half inch would probably make it paralell. Would that be enough to give me the negative camber curve?

[72vega383]

If that 1/2" inch is enough. I can still change the plate to accommodate the chevy 1/2 ton ball joint as the plates are the only thing I have not welded, thy are just tacked because I wasn't sure on the angle(tilt). If the center bore is the same all i would have to do is just weld up the s10 bolt holes and punch the new c10 pattern. Do you happen to know the difference in the bolt patterns, and if I could just slot the holes I already have in the plate? I'm searching the net now and cant seem to find anything.

If worst come to worse I could always make a new plate just cut the tacks?

Thanks for all your advice and help guys!