S-10 spindle replacement issues

[bigbluerider]

I have almost everything to change my 79 Sunbird over to s-10 spindles brakes and rear axles and brakes. Not concerened about the rear , but it seems I have read about front end geometry issues with the spindle upgrade. In process of putting together a higher horsepower 383 stroker , replacing my tired 435 h.p.357. It stopped good with the old motor on stock brakes. Would like to have this on the road this summer , and already have poor suspension issues. Any sure easy cures ?

[cjbiagi]

I have not done the S10 conversion so I can't speak directly about any issues (if their are any) regarding that but the front end is not that different than other cars using a double A arm suspension. You need to first make sure all the linkage and bushings are good. If the steering components are worn now is the time to change them, also consider replacing the control arm bushings along with the upper and lower ball joints. With everything in good working order then all you need to concern yourself with is getting a proper alignment. Some of these cars suffer from not being able to get the alignment within spec. I don't know how much the S10 affects that but many cars suffer from excessive negative camber that can't be corrected with the lower eccentric cams. The ways to alleviate this is either with adjustable upper control arms or offset upper control arm bushings. It will really depend upon your individual car whether you see this problem. If not, you are good to go with a "performance" alignment setting. If not, then you will need to assess the situation and your budget as to whether to go with the adustable arms (expensive) or offset bushings. For alignment specs for a street car I would shoot for 1/2 degree negative camber, as much positive caster as the adjustment cams allow (+2 to +4 degrees would be nice), and 1/8" toe in. That should work quite well.

[MonzaRacer]

The biggest issue with S10 spindles is hat the steering arms are longer and this pushes the outer tie rod forward of the plane of the center link and causes some issues with toe out on turns and bump steer. you cant cut/weld or heat and bend the spindles as they are cast. If you found an aftermarket stock type hat was forged it possibly could be bent with cold or heated and moved. I am working on adapter plates to move the steering box and idler arm forward to see if that is a viable fix. I did call Lee Mfg. about rebuilding it with a faster ratio, they will run just under $500 with suitable core box. Been wanting to check out and see if the Jeep box might work. The other possibility is swapping the inner tie rods too the front of the center link. I was thinking of also talking to Ridetech about helping set up a Tru Turn type kit for H body, but the prototype costs and then production might not be within what we want to spend.
BUT you can do the Bob Gumm adapters and better pads like Hawk, Perf. Friction, etc. I have a set of Raybestos Brute Stop, but they are no longer made.
As for me I am looking for later model Extreme ZQ spindles. and I have an upper control arm going out to SC&C and Marcus is gonna build me an SPC upper arm with adjusters.
I am also working out if I could make a set of lower spacers too push the lower arm out as much as possible to allow a wider, deeper dish wheel too be used and to decrease scrub radius.
Time and money is my hold up,,,and not having a garage built yet.
But you can drive it with S10 spindles and you dont need any different master cyl I used stock master and prop valve. The ones that are on Monza are only different for manual vs power brakes and rear wheel cylinders are different on manual vs power brakes(I am using an S10 rearend and ran manual S10 wheel cyl and had no issues in brake performance.
As for the front brakes on H bodys, the calipers from 76 up are same piston size as S10, and the Extreme/ZQ spindle dual piston caliper keeps the square in in same ratio as older calipers, this is why they are backwards compatible.
I have a spare center link Ill drag out this week end and see what it would take to flip the inner tie rods forward to alleviate the issue with longer steering arms if that wont work the n Ill try to move steering box and idler arm forward and adjust bump steer also.