How to install a rack pinion ?

[6475vegaChevy]

I need to build a dropped crossmember (similar to The Overkill unit? ) to clear my center link and Milodon pan---any information about rack&pinion and tie rods, location, etc. would be helpfull, i have S-10 spindles --------If this has already been posted please let me know where to search.
Thanks , Keith

[cjbiagi]

Keith, I can't give you any specific advice on a H body rack and pinion but there are some things to keep in mind. I just installed one on a 55 Chevy for a friend but that was already designed for the car so it was pretty much a bolt on affair. I don't know of any kits specifically designed for a H body but you do want to pick a rack that will allow you to center it in the car and have the tie rods about the same length as the lower control arms as well as having it mounted so that the tie rod ends up at the same angle as the lower control arm. Ideally the tie rod should pivot the same as the lower control arm to minimize bump steer and other geometry issues. Choosing a rack with the correct width and designing a mounting system to allow it to clear everything and have the proper geometry is what you want to aim for. I chose to have my original power steering box rebuilt by Lee manufacturing in California http://lee-powersteering.com/index.htm and they changed my box to a 12:1 ratio and installed a high effort valve for a more modern feel. Steers and feels great now with no perceptible play in the wheel. Not sure what your goals are but this may be an option.

[irock49]

The previous post brought up a couple of important issues to consider when installing a rack and pinion steering. The length of the tie rods and the length of the suspension arms have to be equal and parallel.

There was a discussion on a Mustang website that I follow, where someone asked how to check for bump steer. I posted the following, which includes some of the theory of suspension design. Hope it helps you.

"Here's how I'm planning the check for bump steer. You need a few items - a big piece of paper to tape to the garage floor, a bare wheel, a block to support the car at the normal height, a scissors jack, and a stiff plywood or Masonite board with a straight edge.

Let me explain the theory first. There are four pivot points whose locations determine the steering geometry. They are (A) the lower suspension arm pivot bolts, (B) the pivot point of the lower ball joint, (C) the pivot point of the tie rod end, and (D) the pivot point of the tie rod where it attaches to the steering rack. When viewed from the front of the car, these 4 points form a parallelogram. The theoretical line AB is parallel and equal length to CD, and AD is parallel and equal length to BC. As the suspension works up and down and the lower arm swings thru an arc. these lines should remain parallel to each other. If lines AB and CD are not the same length, they swing thru non-parallel arcs and the wheel either toes in or toes out depending on which line is longer.

To check for bump steer, place the front wheels in the neutral (straight ahead) position, jack up one side, remove the wheel and tire, and put a block under the frame to support the car at its normal height. Using the scissors jack under the lower suspension arm, raise it as high as it will go without lifting the car off the block. Put the bare wheel on the spindle, tape the paper to the garage floor, and hold the board against the bare wheel with the straight edge resting on the paper. Mark the line created by the intersection of the board and the paper. Lower the suspension arm in increments, maybe an inch at a time, and repeat the process of marking the line where the board meets the paper at each increment. If all the lines on the paper come out parallel, you don't have bump steer. If the lines angle outward, line CD is too long. If the lines angle inward, then CD is too short. "