Swapping Upper Control Arms Side to Side for more Caster??

[CableDroid]

Hey guys, I did a 5 lug swap on my Monza when I bought it a year ago, but never drove it or attempted to have it aligned. After it was back together I noticed a lot of negative camber, which now I read is common on the S10 spindle swap. I used drop spindles from DJM with stock springs (my Monza is a factory 5.7/350 car w/AC). It now is in the finishing phase of a LS 5.3 turbo conversion. I also have noticed that the car is sitting with the suspension completely topped out, as if the engine and transmission were still removed. The previous owner removed every last piece of the HVAC system. I am guessing since the HVAC stuff has been removed combined with an aluminum headed, plastic intake engine (vs the iron headed, iron intake SBC), the front end is just too light to preload the springs/suspension.

Fast forward to now. I pulled the drivers side suspension apart to replace the crumbling 40 year old control arm bushings with Energy Suspension polyurethane replacements and to cut at least one coil from the front springs. The ball joints are in great shape, but thats not surprising since the car only has 30,000 original miles. My neighbor (retired old school drag racing guy) suggested I tear apart the passenger side before reassembling the driver side and swap the upper control arms in order to gain much needed caster since I plan on drag racing.

My concern is will swapping the upper control arms hurt or help the negative camber issue? Also, will lowering the suspension via cutting the springs to gain travel help or hurt the negative camber issue?

So I was hoping you guys could answer my questions.....

Thanks in advance for any help.

[hammerdown7]

I think I can answer parts of your questions. From what I have heard swapping upper arms gives way too much caster, something in the range of 9 degrees. I don't know if it changes camber a great deal.

Dick

[spencerforhire]

I'm sure you've shed somewhere between 150-175 lbs between the A/C delete and the LS swap(if your 5.3 has an iron block), and more like 250 if it's all aluminum. Shouldn't have been enough to top out the suspension. Maybe it was reassembled with no drivetrain and the suspension topped out; if the control arm bolts are tightened like that, it will hold the car up even after the motor goes in. Now that you're about to cut the coils I guess it doesn't matter. I would start with half a coil first; remember that for every inch you cut off the free height of a spring, it will lower the car 2" to 2.5" If you're going drag racing, go ahead and swap the upper arms side for side; there's probably no such thing as "too much caster". My Vega has something like 10 deg. It only wants to go straight, at least while the front wheels are on the ground. lol.

[CableDroid]

I guess I should mention the car is pretty much gutted on the interior too. The previous owner used to street race it back in the '80's and removed everything except the dash, stock column, and driver seat. Had a bare bones aftermarket shifter too. Not even the wiper assembly was spared.

[CableDroid]

The LS swap alone was worth 150 lb weight savings, not sure what all the HVAC stuff would weight considering the heavy ass A6 compressor, evaporator box, heater core, ducting, fan, controls, lines, and condenser. Probably another 100+ lbs alone.

[cjbiagi]

I beleive he used poly bushings which are free floating (at least they should be) so tightening the control arm bolts should not have a impact.

[CableDroid]

I finally got around to messing with the car today. I keep the control arms in their stock locations, but I did end up cutting one coil with a cutoff wheel. After getting it all back together, it seems to be about perfect. Of course an alignment will be needed. I might have time to tear into the passenger side tomorrow to replace the rotten stock bushings for Polyurethane replacements.