Question about doing the S10 Front Disc Conversion

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Question about doing the S10 Front Disc Conversion

Postby fas141 » Wed Nov 10, 2021 11:27 am

I have a 77 Mirage with factory front disc brakes. I need a front suspension rebuild so I was thinking of converting to the S10 5-lug. Rather than junking around in a junkyard, I figured I would just buy new spindles, rotors, bearings, calipers, pads, rubber brake lines and Bob Gumm's ball joint conversion pieces, based on a 1995 S10 2WD pick up. As far as the disc brake conversion goes, would this be all I need? For the ball joints and tie rods, I was thinking of just using standard Monza rebuild parts, or since I am doing the S10 conversion and going to buy new ball joints/tie rods anyways are there bigger S10 ball joints/tie rods to use? I do not want to cut or weld anything, looking for a bolt on procedure. Thanks for all responses.
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Re: Question about doing the S10 Front Disc Conversion

Postby Monza Harry » Wed Nov 10, 2021 6:27 pm

Hey Fas141! The S10/15 ball joints are larger than the hard to source Monza ball joints, [so welding and cutting will be required for S-10 BJ's, this is somewhat preferred as the lower most mounting tab on the S truck spindles are longer than the Monza's so moving the ball joints in and forward about 1/4" in each direction will correct the resulting camber change (and ~center up adjustments) and add some needed caster]. Also the S-Truck/G-Body spindles have a longer steering arm and less than optimal Ackerman designed in for the H-Bodies [larger turning radius with more tire scrubbing]. So I would suggest buying from Speedway Motors [other suppliers are also available with some searching] the now available "Metric" spindle with bolt on brake brackets and bolt on steering arms to maximize your results. Allowing easier brake upgrades and re-setting turning radius and Ackerman, also not all required in "one Bite", start with junkyard spindles and their stock brakes and then start swapping as you can/want to. However many have done the swap you asked about and are getting by happily with the OEM layout with S-10 parts as is. Sorry for the long answer, but the correct answer is and requires your wants/needs/input and budget considerations, [that last one gets most of us every time :( :rolleyes: ]
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway ... 07464.html
There are many, many, many threads on here [and http://www.h-body.org/] about this with part #'s and suggestion to avoid some common pitfalls, such as brake flex lines and clips required, etc.]
Harry
I'm not a hoarder I'm a preservationist 78 Monza Spyder (~Soon(ish +/- I guess) To Be 2+2 with Spoilers)
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Re: Question about doing the S10 Front Disc Conversion

Postby fas141 » Wed Nov 10, 2021 6:48 pm

Thanks Monza Harry.. So if I understand correctly what you are saying.. you mean the S10 style spindles: 1) The lower ball joint tab is longer than the Monza's so cutting them back about 1/4" is needed. 2) The steering arm is longer than the Monza's so the turning radius is off. I would imagine that would need to be cut and welded back as well? If I understand this to be the case, this seems to be a lot of work with "iffy" results possible... So you mention the "Metric" Spindle, would this spindle correct the pre mentioned problems? Basically I am making the car a nice driver, not looking to race it or alter it too much. I'll research more, but are you also saying some people have basically just swapped in the S10 set up without altering the before mentioned issues?
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Re: Question about doing the S10 Front Disc Conversion

Postby Monza Harry » Fri Nov 12, 2021 8:52 pm

Fas141, Yes and no. The S-Truck (very, very, similar if not exactly the same as G-Body/Metric) spindles have a longer lower mounting tab*, so the fix is to use UB Machine conversion rings and weld them into the lower control arms [S-10 ball joints are bigger in diameter so adding these is needed when switching to the S-Truck BJ, so at that time offset them from the original location to correct (1/4" in and forward), there isn't a spindle fix [ to the S-10 stock ones] that is fool proof for the steering arm, but aftermarket one is bolt on making choices available to get closer to "ideal" So changing the stock S-10 spindles is sketchy/unpredictable and welding on these isn't allowed in many jurisdictions, taking it off the table for most. So for a cruiser yes just bolt on the S-Truck stuff and drive, when you need ball joints, you may have few choices for replacement, so the rest of the change may have to take place then. Ball joints, brake rotors and pads, rear drums & parts, tires, windshields, inner tie rods [with the grease zerks in the right spot] [and other parts I'm not remembering] are all getting scarcer so just plan accordingly. S-10 may be less than optimal for a track terror, but should allow your drive your car, larger turning radius, yep, a little more scrub while trying to bang a tight "U" turn, yep. But you will be driving on tires that can be replaced in a week or so. 13" tires in V8 widths are made about once every 6 to 10 years. I hope this clears up some of this but I implore you to read the threads with this info, way more than I can type out! Modifying vehicles carries risk, education is your friend, PLEASE read these links and more, many if not all of your questions will be answered. Harry
*This will use up all of you alignment adjustment and may still be outside of the acceptable settings forcing you find the also getting scarce offset upper control arm bushings to make it "in-spec"*. S-Truck BJ fits some 10,000+ (? I can't find the page with the exact #'s) applications, so should be available for some time to come.
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=46741 viewtopic.php?f=10&t=46989 http://www.h-body.org/library/hbodyfaq/index.html (#5 Brakes)
I'm not a hoarder I'm a preservationist 78 Monza Spyder (~Soon(ish +/- I guess) To Be 2+2 with Spoilers)
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