Monza Spyder set up SCCA

[rgsuperstrat]

Hello. I am wanting to upgrade the suspension in my 1980 Monza Spyder, and am wondering who makes components. Looking for the best set up for solo racing, with the 4 lug to avoid the geometery probs. Also, I think I am going to stick with the 2.5 for now, and the four speed. I have read that the solo racing is for handling, more than power. Would tubular control arms and coil overs be rational? If not, what kind of shocks (type and brand) work good for you guys? I already have the swaybars that came stock. Also, would lowering springs help? Any suggestions or experiences would be awesome!!Thanks for the time.......Paul.

[cosvega76]

Paul,

What you need to change depends on what class you want to run in. Stock classes won't allow you to change much. Prepared and Modified classes allow you more room to change components. Check the rulebook. Also consider if you will still want to be able to drive the car on the street before buying parts.

Larger sway bars are available from Addco, I have 1" bars front and rear on my Vega, a 1-1/4" front bar is available. Shocks are a problem, only KYB and Monroe offer anything new. Coilovers may be overkill, but it depends on your budget. Lowering springs should also be stiffer, as well as lowering the center of gravity.

Tubular control arms are a good idea, but you could get much of the benefit by boxing your current ones. Polyurethane bushings will help, too, but will squeak if not lubricated well. I had poly bushings take out the press-fit of my control arms, so I'm not a big fan of them. I made some tubular arms using rod ends.

Tires will be your best modification for autocross. Get the stickiest tires allowed in your class, whether it's DOT or race rubber.

I ran high-speed autocross for several years in my Vega. It had its limitations, and I was afraid that if I wrecked, I wouldn't be able to find parts to repair. I run a '92 Corvette now, and there is no comparison - except for the attention the Vega got.

Chuck

[rgsuperstrat]

Boxing control arms? How is that done? If I go with KYB shocks, should I get adjustable or gas? The sway bars that are on the car I will have to measure, but I am sure the addco ones are bigger. As far as street use, I will want to drive it, not every day though. Thanks for the quick reply!!

[cjbiagi]

Boxed control arms refers to welding some steel on the bottom to strenghten the arm. The arms are U channels to begin with, when you box them they have 4 complete sides, so they are "boxed". It's done by cutting some steel to fit in the bottom of the U channel and welding it in. It should pretty much run the length of the arm. There are new boxed arms on ebay now, however they have solid bushings in them I think. May work good for what you want to do but would add to the noise and harshness on the street. There were also factory 1 1/8" front sway bars. I grabbed one off of a Sunbird I think to replace my 1 1/16" bar. I think that was the biggest factory bar ever offered. Poly bushings are great in certain applications such as the front sway bar mounts and links as well as the panhard bar mounts. Again, it depends what you want from the car, I prefer rubber for the street but for autocrossing poly would probably work better although they still do have thier drawbacks according to some folks. Lowering the car can help, but these cars don't have a lot of ground clearance or suspension travel so be careful. Wider, bigger wheels certainly would help along with a good alignment. Losing any excess weight is also beneficial. You want to end up with a car that is pretty balanced so you may have to experiment with sway bar sizes and tire pressure.

[rgsuperstrat]

What about shocks? Are coilovers overkill or just expensive? I have noticed the non-extensive selection of shocks. Also, are the Alston subframe connectors good, or is there others? One more thing(for now!), who makes the wide wheels for the four lug? I have never found any wider than 6". I was planning to run my turbine mags I bought at a yard sale from a Vega. Thank you for the patience, and all the information....................Paul

[cjbiagi]

The frame connectors are good but they do require cutting out a section of the floorpan. You have to cut a slit by the rear seat floor and they will protrude through the floor. Of course they need to be properly welded in. I would start with the basic upgrades and go from there. As was mentioned, it depends what class you wish to run in and what the rules are for modifications.

[cosvega76]

Paul,

The main issue with coilovers is that there are no bolt-in units available. If your fabrication skills are up to snuff, this won't be a problem. Being a novice, I don't think they will be necessary. Go out and get your feet wet first. You don't need to spend a lot of cash to go out and have fun.

Chuck

[marco_1978_spyder]

To handle good and stay in a stock class, run the V8 monza swaybars, front and rear, the tech guys wont know the diff.

lowering the car 1 inch helps alot too.

you might have to cut coils....there used to be performance springs available, but not anymore.

there were also performance sway bars at one time too.

[cjbiagi]

Here's a pic of what boxed control arms look like [img]

[vega_man_larry]

You can add coilovers to the front of your car if you want and they are a bolt in mod almost. I used the QA-1 front coilover conversion kit for an S-10 truck. I cut 1 and 1/2 coils off the spring using a cutoff wheel in a hand grinder. I have the springs adjusted to the very bottom of the shock and I run the no. 3 firmness setting. There are no better shocks on the market. My car is very smooth and responsive. It doesn't come cheap these shocks run around $500 at todays prices, more than some guys pay for their car when they start the modification process. But they are the ultimate shock for these cars in my opinion.

Larry