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Restoring Decals with Armor All

PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 9:50 am
by CDA
We all know how great Armor All is in restoring and protecting rubber, plastic and vinyl. My Spyder decal has faded over the years and shows signs of cracking due to the many years of UV exposure and heat from the engine compartment. I don't want to replace it just yet as the car still has the original paint and is still in great shape. By spraying Armor All onto a soft cloth and then spreading it along the decal restores it to an impressive shine and darkens any faded areas. I use the original formula as it gives more of a natural shine. Make sure the decal is clean before applying.

Don't know it anyone has tried this but I thought I'd share.

PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 9:55 am
by spyder_xlch
Nice tip.

PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 10:45 pm
by peterpan
if you go to repaint your car you will have to wash it like crazy


i was painting a car in a body shop i worked at in the paint booth

got the base coat all sprayed on let the last coat dry before the clear was sprayed while i went to lunch

after lunch i washed my hands and went in and turned the booth fans on and started spaying the clear there was fish eyes all over the car in the clear only

the damn kid that was washing cars for us detailed his car outside the booth over lunch and used armor all on his interior and tires and when i turned the booth on it sucked it into the booth and all over the car

we ended up washing the car with laquer thinner then after washing it off wiped it down with precleaner then sanded and repainted it and i still had to fight the fish eyes

PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2008 5:20 am
by AusRs
personally i would NEVER use armor all on any car i owned ! it does make things shiney but at a big cost ,unpainted plastics treated with it tend to turn white ..i use a product made in the UK called Auto glym their bumper care is a far superior product than armor all !

PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2008 9:51 am
by Jitterbugdude
Me too... I avoid Armor All it contains silicone (or is it silicon?) that does 2 things.. attracts dust like crazy AND causes the vinyl/plastic to become stiff and brittle over time. I like Boss Gloss from POR-15
Randy B

PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2008 1:38 pm
by peterpan
as far as interior stuff i use meguiars natural shine


i pulled the interior out of a 73 vega that sat in a junk yard for many years with no windows out and wiped the dirt off it with a dry rag then used this stuff and it looks brand new


and i have used it to clean my 74 interior with awsome results

WD 40, Armor all and simular prducts

PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2008 8:10 pm
by MIKESMONZA
:arrow: Same thing apply's in the body shop teardown/build area ,,if there is a workbench with a vise,and :arrow: WD 40 spray,product,, (silicone based) used on part's from vehicles :arrow: the contamination by product,(fish eyes),,,,is just as you could imagine we would spray the floor with water, Holds down dust,,,every foot step you pound it in to the air,,To fixit we would wash the car with gasoline, add a ground wire to the shop jumper cables :arrow: tack rag it for dust that is charged.with static electricity,,it will attach to the dust in the shop,, :arrow: forcing the owner to wash the ceiling walls and floor, just for the stuff you could see. :shock: Mike Ps,,,, :arrow: that still is a good restore tip for the decal,,,,, 8)

PostPosted: Wed May 07, 2008 8:09 am
by cosvega76
Wow, Ray, I can't say I've ever seen a GT dash with the cubby blocked off. Did you take a cover off of a standard dash and put it there?

Chuck

Re: Restoring Decals with Armor All

PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 2:58 pm
by peterpan
ya i cut the cover thing from a standard dash and cut the cubby out and put the cover in


after i showed it on the board the idea was brought up to put the cover on hinges to make a secret cubby hole i wish i would of thought of that before now i need to start all over to make the secret cubby



i think the cubby looks out of place