Doing a burnout. Launch technique.

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Doing a burnout. Launch technique.

Postby JohnP » Tue Aug 28, 2007 3:06 pm

Whats the proper/best way to do a burnout using a Turbo350 auto trans?

Car has roll-control/line-lock. 50series TA drag radials. I do not know what stall speed the converter is, but I believe it is built for racing as the tranny shifts really hard when it is in drive and auto shifts under hard acceleration.

I recall reading somewhere that a lot of stress is placed on "sprag" when doing a burnout and you can wreck the tranny if you let it auto shift while doing the burn out. Is it best to just do it in 1st gear?

My car is ready to finally make it to the track in the next weekend or two, I'm wondering best way to launch it off the line. Never drove an auto at the track. Should I rev it a bit while holding the brake, then release and give more gas when light goes green? Or, just idle, then mash the pedal once I get green?
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Postby HI WINDING MONZA » Tue Aug 28, 2007 8:38 pm

John , good question ! from what I've read ( I was mostly a manual guy till now) in your case, you start out slowly in first then hit second and then EASE off the gas slowly at the end of the burnout. If its a full manual auto like mine, start out in second if you can .I can't answer your convertor question since a never owned a stall convertor. With a stock one I always floored it with my foot on the brake as long as the brakes will hold the rear tires. Doug in AZ 8)
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Postby 73Sedan » Wed Aug 29, 2007 7:26 pm

John, not having used drag radials myself, you probably don't have to "super" heat them like normal radials. I suggest if you make it to a test-n-tune, ask other drivers with comparable tires (actually I would recommend a points race night as you would find more experienced drivers attending than a normal test night). You can always pay entry for race nights and beg for time only runs when time permits. Doug may be right on, you might want to get spinning in 2nd, without the brakes and let the tires "bite" to let you know they are ready (it sounds wierd). But another option is to attend a track night and do nothing but observe others' burnouts with a similar tire setup.

As far as launch, you will need to "feel" the converter...in other words, if the car feels as if it will walk over the front brakes, you're holding too much RPM. Sometimes it's better to maintain a lower RPM - at green (or last yellow depending on how fast the converter reacts) release brake and floor it. If you intend on bracket racing street class you may not be allowed staging devices (roll control or line lock), so I would get used to footbrake launches first. I had better results with a factory converter at lower RPM (11-1200 RPM) and let the converter do the work later...if I held a higher RPM (15-1600 RPM) my 60' times would actually get worse.
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burnout and launch

Postby Dreamweaver » Tue Sep 04, 2007 9:54 am

1st the TA drag radial doesn't not need alot of heating to come up to proper temp

adjust your side mirror to focus on the driverside rear tire

as for the burnout come into the water bump it once (throttle)(one full spin of the tire) roll foward a couple feet pump the brake two or three times building good presure in the system put the car in FIRST gear lock the brakes bring the rpm's up quickly ,but not so high as to blow the engine umm 3500 should do LOOK IN SIDE MIRROR as soon as you see smoke take the rpm's up another 1000 and shift to second sit there for a second no longer and release the brake staying on the throttle after the car rolls 5 to 10 feet foward let off the throttle DO NOT ROLL PASS THE STARTING LINE TRY TO HAVE A GOOD LINE TO THE BEAMS (in the grove of the last car)(never back up if at all possible it will hurt your sixty foot times and or loss of tractions)(having said that its better to have to back up to get in the groove then worring about not)

with a turbo 350 or 400 you should avoid shifting to 3rd most of them do not like the stress on the sprag you can do it ,but it will shorten the life of the tranny

at the hit first launch leave just above idle on foot brake and nail it when the yellow above the green is just coming on this should flash the convertor and if the tires will hold it leave harder then if you were all the way up on the convertor leaving on foot brake
to keep the tires from spinning (if they do ) bring the rpm's up higher the next launch and dont press the gas pedal down as hard for the launch you may have to leave at idle and depress the loud button down slowly this will be a trial and error stituation you may find leaving at a low rpm and decking it 10 feet out to flash the convertor is the fastest ,but runing brackets all you want to do is be consistent not fast HENCE why I dont bracket race
Please reply with results and I or someone else will be happy to chime in with the next set of questions
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Postby gerbsinmd » Tue Sep 04, 2007 10:24 am

Dave,

Thats a great description of how I do it with my Dad's Malibu. On street tires I get a mid-low 1.90s for 60ft.

My Brother-in-law stalls the car up to the point of slipping the rear tires at the line and the best he can do is 2.20's for 60ft time.

I guess what I am saying is that, I have found these suggestions to work very well!!!
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Postby JohnP » Tue Sep 04, 2007 12:43 pm

I made it to the track this weekend. I only did one run. Got a late start getting there, and an event was going on, so test and tune runs were taking long time inbetween. Even though in 80's it was hot and heat build up in car from drive there and sitting in lane, really got to me. I was not too nervous but heat had me sweating so much I felt like I would loose grip on the wheel.

I did a 12.974 @ 105.20 and 60 was 1.916. Is that a good 60 ft? Tires were at 20lbs pressure.

The starter was moving the test and tune street tire car, and was not allowing long burnouts. I went thru water got tires to spin, then pulled up pushed down hard on brakes then locked them, spun tire short time in only 1st. Wife got a picture and tires spun enough to generate a some smoke. At line I held foot on brake and reved car, just did it by ear, prob just couple k rpm, when last yellow flashed I let off brake and floored it. Car seemed to hook good and I did not hear any tire spin, Felt pushed back in my seat.

I guess first run it is good but thought car was a bit faster, not sure I really pushed it all the way. Car got a bit unstale at top end and it scared me.

Thanks to all for great posts, think best descriptions as to burnout/launch I ever read, I will definitly try them on a cooler day and when maybe track is not as busy. Even tip to adjust side mirror to watch burnout is great, I would not have thought of that.

Think I need a new steering box and hope to have it in by Oct 7 for Vega Monza thing Island is having.
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good times

Postby Dreamweaver » Wed Sep 05, 2007 9:40 am

John glad you got a pass in ,some days it can be quite hard to fit into the bracket races especially when its hot on the bright side you don't have to wear alot of safety gear
sounds like you did a good job with the car as for a tip get your wife to video the car leaving the starting line ,but only focus on the rear tires ,on the race track it has so much traction built into it is almost impossible to detect tire spin from the drivers seat , so either a video or a partner on the line watching is the only way to see
as for the burnout people don't realize how much practice goes into making a proper burnout for your car the problem is the only true place to get practice is at the track because of the amount of rubber on the track (find a street or parking lot with that much rubber and I'll be over for some test hits :D )here's a small clip of one I did when the temp was hot and it was the first pass of the day granted are cars are different ,but you can see how fast and smooth I go thru the procedure THIS IS NOT ROCKET SCIENCE it just takes seat time
http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a31/DD ... I_1426.flv
as for the unstability on the top end check your alingement make sure all tires are balaned and MAKE SURE ALL BOLTS are tight everywhere each week before heading to the track adjust your steering box so that it is tight no slop on the steering wheel then back it off to about a inch or two of slop each way the biggest and most comon problem people get thierselves into is over correcting on the top end ..... when you are going 100 mph the last thing you need is to twitch and send the car upside down thru the lights ....so a little slop or slower steering is actually better in a drag car thats just my personal opinon

Keep us posted and we'll keep helping
Dave
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thanks

Postby beakerztoyz » Wed Sep 05, 2007 9:29 pm

that sounds like good advice, as another guy who has never been to the strip to race i never would have thought of it. i am curious though, does this mean i wont be able to use the line lock i just bought at the strip? or is that only for some classes or what?
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Postby katostud » Thu Sep 06, 2007 2:11 am

i just got 2 the track 4 the first time in my vega as well mild iron headed 350 on 255 60 15s street tires with .373 gears fuel and ignition issues and ran a 12.9 at 104 with a 1.8 60 ft time without being able 2 heat up the tires. no line lock car just wanted 2 spin sidways footbreaking
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Postby Dreamweaver » Thu Sep 06, 2007 5:16 pm

linelocks are most always allowed in any bracket racing program or index races they usaully have two classes electronics and non electronics
electronics allows throttle stops delay boxes and transbrakes

non eletronics allows linelocks

because a linelock can't the car any better then a footbrake usaully the killer is having a transbrake and being froced to run electronics class without all the computer aided throttle control

Katosud and breakerztoyz linelock is a must for me on a car since it saves your rear brakes for when you really need them STOPPING AT THE BIG END lol ,but as for a hint to wire them up on a street car wire them thru a relay that has a seperate on/off switch some people mount them overhead to avoid any problem in the first place ,me, I would rahter have it on the shifter allows for 1 hand on the wheel and the other on the shifter
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Postby beakerztoyz » Fri Sep 07, 2007 11:05 pm

thanks for the explanation. good luck with the debut of your car, its a really cool toy, not to mention killer fast. T.J.
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