Rod ends

[tzoom]

What size and type rod ends should I get for my four-link. Chromoly? Mild Steel? There are so many sizes and types offered I'm not sure which way to go. There are big disparities in prices too. I would rather pay $25 than $45 but I don't want to cut corners either.

[spencerforhire]

Unless you're running a high horsepower heavy car with lots of bite, the big-buck chrome-moly ones are probably a waste of money. I bought 8(4 LH. and 4 RH.) 3/4" steel ones from Jeg's to fabricate my 4-link, and they were something like $12/ea.

[gotmud7]

I have a set of vega upper and lower arms that have the metal rod ends on both ends. I'm thinking of replacing the end that mounts to the car with some type of urethane bushings for a better rde. I can't find those anywhere. Maybe I am calling them the wrong thing. I saw on Musclecar Tv, they made a set and said you can find them anywere.
I want to make mine like what is in the picture, but double adjustable. MArk

[cjbiagi]

Mark, I may be able to help you find something, email me. cjbiagi@yahoo.com

[tzoom]

Unless you're running a high horsepower heavy car with lots of bite, the big-buck chrome-moly ones are probably a waste of money. I bought 8(4 LH. and 4 RH.) 3/4" steel ones from Jeg's to fabricate my 4-link, and they were something like $12/ea.

My Monza will be strictly for racing. I want to make it as light as I can, hopefully under 2500 pounds. I'm hoping for 600hp at the flywheel with a glide and 31 or 32 x 14 x 15 Hoosiers. Will the $12 ones work here?

[cjbiagi]

If you are building a drag car don't get cheap when it comes to this type of equipment. It could save your car or your life (or someone else's) Any highly stressed part should not be the place to look to save a few bucks.

[chevy art]

hey tzoom. with that setup i would spend the extra and buy some heavy duty ones. anothewr important thing is to clean the heims every so often with some sort of cleaner(brake parts cleaner) and maube spray in some white lithium grease after the cleaning. i have heard this a few time from the companies that sell these heims art

[tzoom]

Heavy duty carbon steel? Chromoly? What static load capacity? My reference to the $12 rod ends was rhetorical. Prices on rod ends run up to $70 or so. I am retired and on a fixed income. Price is a consideration but I also want strength and safety. And I only want to buy them once so I want to get it right the first time. What are others using?

[Bob Gumm]

With a 4-link system the lower bars are under compression forces (rear axle pushing forward), while the upper bars are being pulled (rear trying counter-rotate/pinion climbing the ring gear). The pulling force is the hardest on the ends and system designers recommend using stronger ends on the upper bars while the lower bars will suffice with a lesser grade end. So I'm not saying what ends you need to get, but like Clyde said don't skimp on parts that could jeopardize your safety.

[tzoom]

Thanks. That gives me some direction.

[chevy art]

the manufacturers always say to clean the heim joints at least once a year as they collect alot of dirt and grime. probably just spray clean with brake parts cleaner and then maybe a little squirt of spray lithium grease art

[spencerforhire]

After having my suggestion of "economy" rod ends go over like a fart in church, I had intended to defend my position by launching into a longwinded, detailed listing of the tensile strength vs price of a bunch of different types of ends(the $25-$40 chrome moly ones seem to be all in the vicinity of 28,000lb and the "economy" ones are usually around 18,000-20,000lb)but I won't bother. I'm comfortable with my choices.

[tzoom]

The ones I'm looking at at Summit are over 40,000lbs.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-RMX10/

[cjbiagi]

Well I guess you can also look at it this way, why do people (racers in particular) use heavy duty rearends, axles, u-joints, driveshafts, clutches, transmissions, super strength rods, pistons, bolts etc etc when lighter duty parts may work? Because reliability and safety I would assume. There are many parts in a race car that may be considered overkill, but maybe not when you consider the stress and abuse they are put under. What would the consequences be if one of these parts broke? Generally its better and cheaper to do it right the first time than do it over again later on.

[spencerforhire]

I am a firm believer in "do it right the first time", and I am building my race car with a lot of parts that are designed to handle way more power and abuse than it will ever actually experience- like a 9" rear with 35 spline axles, billet axle ends, back braced housing, Daytona pinion support, etc. and a Powerglide with an Ultrabell housing.
If the entry level, economy rod ends from Summit, Jeg's and QA1(all in the $12-$15 range) weren't safe to use on a 2200lb high 9 second car, I'm sure they wouldn't recommend OR sell them for that application. If I were building a 4000lb car or using a 1000hp motor(like the trans and rear are designed for) I would be using the pricier chrome moly rod ends for sure. I'm thrifty, not stupid. Not that anyone on this board would ever call another member stupid; that would be more likely over on "yellowbullet"!
It all boils down to whatever makes you comfortable, and spending money on good quality parts can never be a waste; you're buying peace of mind. Considering you can spend up to $70(!!!!!) on a rod end, the ones that tzoom is looking at from Summit are actually a pretty good deal in the price/strength department.