1971 rear supension 4 link relocation

[bjankuski]

Hello,
This is my first post and I tried a search with no results. I have a 1971 Vega GT with a Ford 9" rear end in it and it has the stock 4 link supension attaching points. Years ago I saw an article where the upper supports on the rear end were relocated for better weight transfer,can anyone tell me what is changed so I can duplicate the change?

[cjbiagi]

Check this thread out viewtopic.php?t=23110&highlight

[cosvega76]

I made some out of square and round tubing. But I am also using upper control arms made out of round tubing and rod ends.

Chuck

[bjankuski]

Thanks

[chevy art]

he bj what are you going to do with the car. is it for drag racing or just a street car. alot of times you need to work the front and the back of the car for good weight transfer. just doing that one thing may not really give you any results you can immediately feel. you should maybe get some sort of baseline with the car and just see how it reacts to hard takeoffs as is. you may have wheelhop(there are ways to eliminate that. changing front shocks and springs help weight transfer. lots of things to do, but should be done in some kind of order after test period. any questions just chime back in.i can also tell you where to see some good pics of the anti wheelhop bar brackets built by members and i can also tell you all the specs on the brackets to make them yourself, if thats what you need. airbags also help the guys with traction problems art

[bjankuski]

I am trying to build a killer street/strip car to compete in the Hot Rod magazine world fastest street car competition in the SB NA class. The rules of the class state that you must run the stock style rear suspension but you can replace the factory supplied control arms with aftermarket readily available parts. I intend to run the factory style four link suspension with solid or semi solid upper and lower control arms. (Something like the SPOON set-up) To be competitive in the class I need to be able to run high to mid nines with the car and it must be able to drive on the street at least 2000 miles between five race tracks in five days. I have owned this car since I was 15 years old and now I am 43. Years ago when I was in high school it ran high 11's with a mild 350 and it has been parked for the last 18 years in my shop and I have pursued other various car projects. I have decided to restore the car and set it up for this race event, and years ago I remember reading an article that showed some upper rear end relocation brackets that improved the geometry of the factory four link. Instead of redesigning the rear suspension I wanted to see if anyone had a copy of those relocation brackets so I could set-up my nine inch rear end with the new upper mounting positions. If I cannot find the drawing I will calculate the instant center of the suspension and create something that should get me close, I was just hoping to see and study the design I had seen previously.

The car will be powered by a fuel injected 427 SBC that hopefully makes near 700 HP, and a 700 R4 transmission for improved fuel mileage and less wear and tear.

[v8astregt]

Relocating the 4 link brackets definitely makes a difference! I can now say that with 100% certainty!

This isn't in the Astre BTW. I don't have a wheelhop problem with that car.

This is in my Trans Am. I had a stock 10 bolt with LCA relocators (same principle as raising the uppers) that wouldn't keep traction, but I never had wheelhop when taking of forward, or spinning the tires. I swapped to a 9" this year that did not have these brackets added, it wheelhops like crazy. Definitely need to get the relocation brackets for this setup now.

[73astregt]

if allowed to use them you can also consider buying a set of traction bars from e bay seller bundyparts. he makes a copy of the vega monza specific no longer available lakewood bars. they mount on the control arm bolt and the shock bolt with no mods to the stock parts. i just recieved a set friday and will be trying them along with the upper arm relocation and probably a set of air bags in the springs. my car has a stick and wheel hops like crazy every time the tires break traction now and it never dids this when i had the auto trans in the car i guess the standard trans just hits harder than the auto.

[chevy art]

fred i also got a set of those bars from bundy a few years ago and havent used them yet because car i not together yet. i really feel they will help to keep wheels on ground. my only concern will be road clearance. looks like they will be low to ground. what do you think. i will also use the air bags i bought the 82 camaro springs for the car. is it possible for you to test the air bags and the traction bars seperately, just see how each part works individually. that would really be the best test, if possible. like tuning an engine. one adjustment or addition at a time. please keep us posted as to the results. sure hope they are real good results. hope you beat the snow also. art

[overkillrc]

i'm just about to start on 9" housings for H-bodies i'm going to start with the 4 link model (it's all i have right now for a pattern) the lower control arm brackets will have 3 holes to adjust and the uppers may as well (haven't decided that yet) not sure i understand the traction bar thing on a 4 link there are thousands of fox body mustangs with almost the exact same suspension and they work awesome with out a traction bar, not hatin on it just trying to understand, seems like a band-aid to me. i think with an adjustable set of control arms and quality DOUBLE adjustable shocks and the correct springs they should work great IMHO.