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I traded a non running project for this running 77 Vega project that needed a little bit of work as far as the wiring went. I was going to make it a gasser/rat rod type street car, but it hasn't been titled since mid 80's. If i can get it going fro the street I still might work on that part, but for now it's just a drag project. Hoping to get it finished up and make some passes here shortly.

it's a 1977 Chevy Vega wagon, 350 conversion, th400 transmission with 3500 stall converter, Ford 8” rear end (baby 9”) with 28 spline axles, 4.11 gears, solid ladder bars. The 350 is bored .060 over, has 650 double pumper carb, edelbrock performer rpm intake with 1” spacer, 72cc iron heads, .488/.510 cam (EDL-7102), 45gpm electric water pump, dual electric fans, Accel billet distributor, battery mounted in rear compartment, aluminum fuel cell in rear, rewired with new fuse box, relays, main disconnect switch, emergency cut off by steering wheel, tach with shift light, 2-5/8 mechanical oil pressure/water temp/volt white face gauges, all new switches, B&M shifter, sub-frame support bars welded to roll cage, clearance for 29-29” x 10-11” slicks, fiberglass hood with scoop, solid mounted motor with frame and roll bar supports.

The previous owner had a lot of the parts just no time to work with them, I rewired everything, put the battery in the rear, did some carb work to it, installed the new water pump, new fans, few other little odds and ends and it was drivable again!

I still am thinking adding a better racing seat, steering wheel disconnect with racing wheel, maybe some grasburner/zoomie headers or some block huggers if they'll fit. It gives me something to tinker with any way haha!

I don't know about where you intend to race this car, but the rules (if enforced) will require a barrier between the fuel tank/battery area and the driver's compartment. You can probably re-engineer the original trunk floor to seal things up, or build something new.
Also in the list of safety related items required to pass a tech inspection will be a master battery shut off switch somewhere on the rear of the car. This is required on all vehicles with a battery relocated to the rear.

Working on the batt/tank cover, I gave myself enough cable to run a master disconnect at the rear. It's still a work in progress.....

Welcome aboard! Keep plugging away at it and it will get closer to what you want. Have FUN and keep us living vicariously through your posts! Harry

Teammudd wrote:I gave myself enough cable to run a master disconnect at the rear. It's still a work in progress.....

Can't see in picture..is there an alternator on the car? If there is make sure it shuts off when master disconnect is flipped.
Mine is currently wired wrong and the alternator keeps the car running after the switch is thrown. I'm switching to a 4 pole disconnect and running my alt field wire to the disconnect.
No tech inspector has ever tested to see if the switch actually works...i'm still going to fix it.

I always use a 4-pole battery shut off switch when I'm wiring a drag car, but I don't cut the alternator field wire. I interrupt the ignition + to the MSD box. This ensure instant shut down when the tech inspector checks it(which they do at all 4 tracks we race here in Eastern Canada).
I don't condone it, but some racers with one-wire alternators and 2-pole switches just run their alternator feed all the way to the battery itself. Then the switch will test properly, but the alternator line is "hot" at all times and therefore the battery itself must be disconnected for service, and to ensure there's no drain on the system.