Seized carburetor solution?

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Seized carburetor solution?

Postby Sirshredalot » Sat Sep 08, 2007 11:53 pm

Ive got a few old holleys and the throttle shafts are siezed up on them and I was wondering if anyone has ever had any luck un-freezing them.

I have let them soak in a bucket of ATF before and that didnt help...nor did PB blaster...but all i could do was spray them with that...not soak them.

I could take them all apart and remove the butterflies and tap out the throttle shaft but if I do that i dont wanna ruin the throttle shaft bushings because i will have a permenant vacuum leak.

Any suggestions or advice? personal success stories?

Please and thank you
God bless
-Shred
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unstuck

Postby Dannyboy » Sun Sep 09, 2007 3:30 pm

try to soak em in diesel
or carrosine
" I rather eat worms than drive a mopar"
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Postby spyder_xlch » Sun Sep 09, 2007 4:35 pm

That carrosine would be expensive to ship from Sweden. I'd try the kerosene we have here in the states,lol. If PB blaster didn't do it I don't know what will. When I worked at NAPA we sold stuff called Deep Creep (made by seafoam) and also something by CRC called freeze off.
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Postby Sirshredalot » Sun Sep 09, 2007 10:45 pm

The deep creep.....we sell at work, but its like 7 bucks a can.

I might try some heat with the PB blaster and i posted the same question on the speedtalk website and they gave me some really good advice.

They told be to drill a 1/16" hole from the bottme of the baseplate up to the throttle shaft and try the heat and PB blasterand work it slowly.

Thanks for the good advice.

God bless
-Shred

-PS: I think my wife would frown upon me storing a "gross" carburetor in a "stinky" vat of kerosene in the Apt....LOL
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Postby jdandboo@hotmail.com » Tue Sep 11, 2007 11:46 pm

A secret an ole friend taught me years ago was "not" to heat it up and "work it" but to heat it up and quench it with cold water-Ive been very careful with this technique on aluminum and cast and had excellent results
The hotwrench is an awesome tool but i've also watched as my aluminum project piece has completely collapsed on me and i didnt even think it was hot enough yet,,,
Hot and Cold,,,best advice i've ever gotten,,,
John
and as far as storing a nasty carb and kero in an apartment-thats what 5 gallon buckets and closets are for
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Postby Sirshredalot » Wed Sep 12, 2007 1:03 pm

NOt according to her,,

Closets are for SHOES and LOTS of them...seriously...we are running out of shoes space....lol

Heat and quench is a good idea....Id be afraid of the porosity of the aluminum baseplate becoming over hardened and cracking though...especially with 15 lb ft of torque to the intake....that close to the mounting flange?

Have you ever done that on a carb?....wouldnt the PD blaster or spray lube quench it also when "working" it hot?

Hmmmmm....

Some good ideas.
Yall rock

Ill give it a shot next time i get my hands on my carbs, right now IM tied up doing a clutch in my truck....garrrr....AGAIN....after 23,000miles.
what good is a lifetime warranty if the clutches and T/O bearings go out in 20K?

Id rather buy a part with no warranty and never have to replace it.

God bless
-Shred

PS:...i hope she doesnt find out i was sitting on the floor typing this in these "dirty" jeans...hehe
I love her.
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Postby jdandboo@hotmail.com » Wed Sep 12, 2007 5:16 pm

,,lol-yes i've done the wd40 "quench"smokes like a ,,well,,monza without a posi,lol
careful on the aluminum,,,like i said before i've seen it drop out before i even thought it was hot,,best shot would prolly be to heat the shaft on one side,quench,and rotate fr the other
John
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