these AN fittings are insane!!

[spencerforhire]

I'll see if I can find my invoice from Jeg's with all the prices on it; it's everything that's needed to go between the fuel cell and carb to feed a 500-600hp(n/a) drag car.
I've encountered some of that push-lock stuff before in the marine end of my business; the first time I saw it I honestly thought someone had forgotten the clamps! I have a hard time getting my head around barbed fittings with NO clamps, but if it's legal for marine use, I would suspect it would be ok for NHRA tech.

I'm really not upset about the "package" thing; my first post in this thread was composed before meangreen73vega's but not posted until after, so later when I clicked the tab for "newest posts" I didn't see that he had mentioned the availability of a package. My bad. Trying to build a "budget" racecar is quite a juggling act; I try to spend the big money on things that really matter(like 35 spline race axles) while pinching pennies in other areas(like cosmetic things and big name brands), and invariably someone will disagree with my choices.

[rtm]

it's all good spence,
just tryin to get to the bottom of this whole AN fitting thing,(WITHOUT GETTING TO THE BOTTOM OF MY WALLET ) :lol
Gotta look into the pushlock thing though,
to late for my feed line, (already ordered parts ) maybe a return line?

[Kenova]

just tryin to get to the bottom of this whole AN fitting thing,(WITHOUT GETTING TO THE BOTTOM OF MY WALLET ) :lol

Good luck with that. At least you're on the right side of the border when it comes to the prices.
When I did the fuel system on my Nova I went with Russel fittings from Summit. I did my best to order everything at once, but still came up a few fittings short. I decided to buy the missing fittings locally. The damned things were three times the price, before taxes. Nothing worse than having to pay more than $15.00 for a fitting that Summit lists for $5.00.

Ken

[Ishiftem]

just resd an article in one of the mags and they warned about buying the cheap offshore fuel lines and fittings.. the insides of the braided lines rot pretty quickly and the fittings are cheaply made and the centers dont line up well and they leak pretty quickly. i always buy a brand like russell or aeroquip. costs more and hopefully lasts longer. art

It's not just the cheap stuff. I would not use ANY of the rubber lines for fuel whether they are from earl's,aero quip, russels or any body else. Teflon only. Period. Pump gas will deteriorate the fore mentioned hoses. Not if, but will. I was glad to see that article you mention. We went round and round with earls about ten years ago because the gas vapors were coming through their braided rubber line. They said the hose was fine. Finely after talking with the earl's indy service shop and a engineer from earls did it come out that they had not improved their line for twenty years and had no idea what current additives would do to it. They also conceded it should NOT be used with ANY pump gas without frequent inspection AND replacement. They finally sent us all new stuff(over 800 bucks at the time) which we promptly put on ebay and used the cash to buy teflon line from brown and miller. I am amazed that they still market the crap to people whose primary use will be street.

[78spyder]

Check out the Koul tool. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S94tUPoASp4 Youl be glad you did!Summit and Jegs carry them. I can put an AN end on a braided line in 2 minutes minus the pierced fingers. Also these guys are awesome! http://stores.ebay.com/performancedynamicsspeedshop
Great price, friendly service and each time took about 3 days to get. With AN fitting like any plumbing project takes me about 3 trips to the store to get everything I need.

[Sirshredalot]

I have seen a lot of braided lines "weep" after some age...but over-all I cannot attest to whether or not braided is still the best way to.

Seems funny though...the cheapo $1.29 a foot stuff from the parts store that is not NHRA legal never has any problems...been on my truck for over 8 years and going strong...still flexible and not weeping fuel.

I run as much hard tube as I can anyway....Aluminum tubing all the way....unless I can afford push-lok.

God bless
-Shred

[rtm]

today I recieved two 25 ft. rolls of 1/2 inch O.D aluminum tubing from JEGS (leaves me plenty of room for mistakes)
also recieved some fittings from SUMMIT RACING.
I ordered an AN wrench set from SPEEDWAY MOTORS
I also ordered the koul tool AN fitting set from SUMMIT.(thanx 78spyder)
I'll try to post prices/pics
and keep track of what I needed/didn't need.
again,bear in mind that I'm switching from a stock tank, to a flat RCI fuel cell (no sump due to unibody trunk ribs)
and the fuel pump was "almost" given to me (thanx art)
I did however, opt to use a bypass regulator (sorry art)
but , if I put together a cost list, I'll include the prices of each item from a vendor
gotta go, for now, (holiday)

[Ishiftem]

I have seen a lot of braided lines "weep" after some age...but over-all I cannot attest to whether or not braided is still the best way to.

Seems funny though...the cheapo $1.29 a foot stuff from the parts store that is not NHRA legal never has any problems...been on my truck for over 8 years and going strong...still flexible and not weeping fuel.

I run as much hard tube as I can anyway....Aluminum tubing all the way....unless I can afford push-lok.

God bless
-Shred

Exactly! You can buy cheap non braided line from napa that doesn't deteriorate , but all the expensive braided "rubber" core line and push lok stuff does. I also plan to use steel or aluminum line, for cost and durability, and braided teflon for all the flex. Unless they are oil lines, because they don't get effected like using them for fuel. Also, having a return line speeds the rate at which the stuff breaks down due to increased oxidation of the fuel. Even the oems are using line with teflon now. Sorry for the rant, but it really ticks me off when a company makes a poor product and then tries to weasel out of it. I also don't want to see anybody have their car and possibly garage burn down for using a product that is supposed to be top of the line when the reality is that it is prone to failure and the company knows it and sells it anyway. I'll shut up now.

[Sirshredalot]

Yes....the parts store FUEL INJECTION rubber line is push-lock capable and has the liner...and at $3.69 a foot its cheaper...but the NHRA might frown on its use being that it appears to be regular rubber hose.
Make sure its the Goodyear stuff too....accept no others.

God bless
-Shred

[rtm]

of course I'll be returning at least three of the AN fittings I recently recieved.
they are -10 female to -10 hose 90 degree (from fuel cell to braided hose, through trunk floor )
I need -8 female @ cell to -10 hose 90 degree .
don't even see them listed
I would keep them, and buy an adapter, but I'm worried about height issues when I close the trunk.
may have to get -8 90 degree and adapters from -8 to -10 hose.
more fittings=more $$

[rtm]

HEY, i GOTTA ASK, MY 1/2" DIA FUEL LINE FITS RIGHT INTO THE -10 BRAIDED THAT i BOUGHT .
WOULD A SINGLE FLARE @ THE ALUMINUM TUBING AND DOUBLE HOSE CLAMPS BE GOOD ENOUGH FOR MY CARBURATED SBC??????
WILL IT PASS TECH. @ THE TRACK??
MAYBE A STUPID QUESTION,
BUT THEN AGAIN????????

[rtm]

stolen from a ricer site:

The AN# (ex - 4-AN) is the numerator in the equation X/16, where X = 4 for 4-AN. This gives you the nominal ID of the hose that comes in this size. The nominal ID for 4-AN hose is thus 1/4 inch. You can be assured that a 4-AN hose will fit snugly over a 1/4" OD hard line.

The AN system was originally designed to give the OD of hard tubing, so this is what the nominal dimension is for - the acutal OD of hard AN sized tubing. The hose that fits over the tubing must have a snug fit, therefore the actual ID of the hose is somewhat smaller than the OD of the hard line. To find the acutal ID of the hose you're using, multiply the nominal ID of the hose by a factor of 7/8 [or 0.875]. This will give you the actual ID of the hose in inches. For a piece of 4-AN hose, the nominal ID is 1/4 inch, and the actual ID is [1/4 x 7/8] 7/32 inch.

AN hose's available sizes [at least that I am aware of] are 3, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 16, 20, and 24.

The respective nominal ID's are 3/16", 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", 1", 1 1/4", 1 1/2".

The respective actual ID's are 21/128", 7/32", 21/64", 7/16", 35/64", 21/32", 7/8", 1 3/32", 1 5/16" - though you may often find the ones with high denominators rounded to a fraction with a lower denominator.

Voila! Now you know how to properly size AN hose!

Read more at http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.ph ... ck=kcplink

[rtm]

stolen from a ricer site:

The AN# (ex - 4-AN) is the numerator in the equation X/16, where X = 4 for 4-AN. This gives you the nominal ID of the hose that comes in this size. The nominal ID for 4-AN hose is thus 1/4 inch. You can be assured that a 4-AN hose will fit snugly over a 1/4" OD hard line.

The AN system was originally designed to give the OD of hard tubing, so this is what the nominal dimension is for - the acutal OD of hard AN sized tubing. The hose that fits over the tubing must have a snug fit, therefore the actual ID of the hose is somewhat smaller than the OD of the hard line. To find the acutal ID of the hose you're using, multiply the nominal ID of the hose by a factor of 7/8 [or 0.875]. This will give you the actual ID of the hose in inches. For a piece of 4-AN hose, the nominal ID is 1/4 inch, and the actual ID is [1/4 x 7/8] 7/32 inch.

AN hose's available sizes [at least that I am aware of] are 3, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 16, 20, and 24.

The respective nominal ID's are 3/16", 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", 1", 1 1/4", 1 1/2".

The respective actual ID's are 21/128", 7/32", 21/64", 7/16", 35/64", 21/32", 7/8", 1 3/32", 1 5/16" - though you may often find the ones with high denominators rounded to a fraction with a lower denominator.

Voila! Now you know how to properly size AN hose!

[chevy art]

rick i think you are trying to make up for the #8 fittings coming out of the fuel cell. all mfgs agree and recomend # 10 out of cell to fuel pump and from there thru filter(yes filter after the pump says holley or else no guarantee on pump) and then # 8 up to regulator and whatever size goes up that size line(or 1 smaller) should be used for the return. barry grant shows thwe fuel filter before the pump in their diagrams, but electric pumps work best pushing thru filter, not pulling through. rick if you only have a # 8 coming out of cell and you try to adapt a # 8 fitting to a # 10 line for the gravity feed out of cell it is probably a waste of time. the # 8 fitting has a hole to feed the # 8 line and only passes so much through it so i dont think a # 10 line with the 8 fitting works. what you could do and some of the so called experts recommend doing, is coming out of cell with 2 # 8 lines going to a y block at pump and go from there. i did this on my nova drag car to 2 fuel pumps(on separate relays and separate) to a Y at the large fuel filter canister. been like this for 15 years and never a problem and always have exact pressure coming through the traps at about 7700 rpms so i know i have the volume also because the car runs so good and consistent...also never even thought of using a return line. pumps have their own built in pressure relief valve in them(holley blue pumps). come on down some time to check out my ride art

[rtm]

hey art, I only have one feed line out of cell, and it is -8 AN,
planned on using a 90 degree fitting ,to -10 braided ,to a 100 micron prefilter ,then,to the pump.(the pre- filter has AN -8 fittings)
that is the way the setup was explained to me.
if I can get to the 3/8" NPT port on the mallory pump you sold me, (thanx again) ,w/the least amount of AN fittings possible, I should be able to keep costs down.
my problem @ the 90deg. ftng is that I need to go from -8 female to -10 hose,
and I haven't found a listing for that particular fitting.
I think I'll have to use a -8 90 deg. and add a -8 to -10 straight adapter to get to the braided hose.
if i put the -10 adapter at the cell, the trunk might not close (remember, it is a flat cell w/ fittings @ the TOP of the tank)
anyway, w/the holiday , and some other personal crisis' thrown in, progress is slow ,so I have a chance to read everyone's thoughts on what fittings to use where.