I dropped the tank yesterday and pulled the sending unit. The tank is getting a boil, inner coat and outer paint over the nest few days while the pump is on order.
The previous owner has removed the oem pump, and the sender needed repairs. I replaced the strap/wire going to the sender unit, repaired and cleaned the sender and its working ok, 3-112 ohms now instead of 0-90. I haven't tested it on the car yet. If it doesn't pass muster I can move the tan wire over to a universal adjustable sender and drill a second hole for an aftermarket sender I've ordered from Amazon as a backup. If the oem one works Amazon is happy to take it back, that's the beauty of Amazon - I can drop off the part at Kohls or Whole Foods free if I don't need it.
sender.jpg
I've ordered a Bega pump and pickup screen (CARTER P6876):
Carter.jpg
I've labeled it for reference here. I presume I'll separate the brass fittings in my first photo and find a male threaded fitting that will thread into the white outlet side of the pump. I'll connect the short jumper wire from the frame of the sending unit to negative and likely have to replace the existing strap for positive with a new wire as the insulation is split, and the strap to the level sender was causing trouble too. What I'm not clear on is the details of the final assembly.
What are the black clips A and B in my picture for? A appears to be a quick clip to go over the fuel line hose - wouldn't a metal hose clamp work better?
I'm assuming the inlet side of the pump goes through the final bracket on the pickup assembly, and then the short length of hose gets clamped onto that, and then the filter screen gets attached with just the little barbs to the outside of the other end of the hose? That seems like it would come loose as fuel sloshes around in the tank, so I'm probably missing something.
Any help or photos?
Also, there is very little information out on the web about whether or not specific wire is actually needed inside the tank to hook up the pump and sender. There are a few places where people are advocating using expensive mil-spec wire - but I'd expect to find a lot more on the subject on manufacturers websites, parts retailers websites etc. if something exotic was really required - what's the real deal?
Tom
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On my third H Body - 1975 Monza 2+2 4.3L Orange/Black (Current State: Running great - needs the AC finished before summer hits hard)
76 Monza 2+2 L4 (1982-1987)
77 Starfire V6 (1987-1987)
82 Delorean - Universal Raffle Car (2005-2013)
81 Delorean 2009 - Present
17 Chevy Bolt 2017- Sold back to GM for almost a full refund
22 Mustang Mach E on order