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Throttle cable turns out to be about 4" to long going from the I4 to the V8.From the tape meas Jeep CJ cables look about right.Here are some links:
http://atpautomotive.com/cables/acceler ... rettyPhoto
http://www.omix-ada.com/accelerator-cab ... ep-sj.html
http://www.omix-ada.com/accelerator-cab ... odels.html
http://www.crownautomotive.net/product/J5357703.html

is the stock cable too long to use with a v-8 engine in the vega. have an old cable in there and i have a brand new stock replacement cable to put in, but if it is wrong then i dont want to mess with it. GTW said locar makes a nice one tyo use with the v-8. if stock cable is too long is it bad to have that slack floating around and will it affect the throttle response or distance of the cable throw. thanks art

Yup Too long.Creates a halve loop that may bind after too long so did a search on the shortest cable I could find to see if that would work.Came up with those Jeep cables above and ordered the Crown cable



The first challenge with the shorter cable was that the housing is the right length but the cable inside is about 1" - 1.5" too short.Luckily there is adjustment at the pedal in the roll pin slot and the bent degree of the pedal rod.A new bracket was required to get the cable housing closer to the throttle lever so started out with one of these from Speedway http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Polished- ... ,8597.html and flipped it the op way it was designed for and drilled a second mounting hole for using two bolts to mount.A problem with some of these brackets is they won't hold but spin with one bolt holding them.The Demon bracket uses 2 fastening bolts https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_sy ... parts/1953 After attaching,bracket interfered with the low air cleaner base so gave it a twist down for clearance

After that used cutting blades and die cutter to enlarge the hole to fit the square cable housing

Got some of the hardware,ball ends and these chrome cap bolts that have the clearance to install near to each other

The FI Tech has quite a stiff return spring in it so wanted to use the large top hole with a bushing,ball kit for more leverage on the arm but there is not enough room between the arm and the body on the inside for a nut nor the air cleaner base on the outside.Decided to pop a new hole higher and even with the large one for the ball screw

Used a tubing cutter and aviation snip to remove some on the plastic housing for more cable travel

A bit of work for sure but a $6 bracket and sub $20 cable http://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automotive- ... B009X1V1QO for a factory look set up.
On the inside I filed the roll pin slot too much so dab welded and filed again.There is a lot of adjustment here.Also had the pedal rod out 5-6 times for some slight re-bending near the cable att hole

Finally got it just right with a little slack with out chance of the cable retainer slipping out



Odd bracket works well

Vegabee wrote:Used a tubing cutter and aviation snip to remove some on the plastic housing for more cable travel

VB now that is a creative journey outside the box of ordinary thinking! I sometimes buy bicycle cables and cut and butcher.., UHM I mean "Finesse" them to my will! Remember to use bicycle brake cables [up to 2.0MM 0.080"] as the derailer are way small diameter around 1.2MM [0.048"] Harry

The Vega 21"+ cable had a bad half loop.Never looked under the hood of a Jeep SJ or CJ to see how those cables run but the ones linked range from 17.25",18.5",and I think 19" then they go up from there into the 20"s.I have the 17.25" one and that even brings the cable housing end even or so to the carb base mounting bolt.One of those sizes should be close for V8/V6s.Main work was in the bracket.There are many OEM brackets I haven't look at like one my neighbor has on his 350.The square housing ends on the Jeep cables do fit up to the Vega fire wall and the GM brackets,took a chance on ordering it and worked out

gtdhw(nice vega race car) uses the Lokar standard cable with braided SS jacket and he says it fits perfect. and is a very easy install to gas pedal(brackets and parts are included) im checking with jegs for specs. my cable(which ever one i choose) will be attached to the fancy billet bracket that is held on by 2 carb studs. art

yea lets look at that one.The shortest Lokar is 24" 'cut to fit' but haven't checked whats involved with that. http://lokar.com/product-pgs/throttleca ... ables.html Their 'duo kit' bracket looks the same as stainless generic bracket offered other places in which later a screw stud boss was added to keep the single mounting bolt from letting bracket twist.Haven't tested the effectiveness of that added set screw either,but drilled another hole for 2 bolts instead.looks like a Lokar 2 bolt mounting bracket would be purchased separate from the cable http://lokar.com/product-pgs/mounting-b ... -main.html
Here's a nice fancy Lokar billet bracket of-course the cable will still need to be purchased separate: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lokar-TCB-4150- ... Wk&vxp=mtr

How did he attach the Lokar clevis to the factory pedal bracket with out a cable retainer?
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/D7wAAOSwd ... s-l500.jpg

good question vegabee. i will see if i can get him to post an answer. art

Not saying right or wrong, but mine has been this way for 6 years now, with thousands road of miles, and drag racing (bracket racing, where consistency to the .0000x of a second matters) it every weekend, for those six years (a thousand+ times of the pedal being mashed hard from dead stop, and throttle playing -repeatedly letting off and mashing it again- on the big end). Never single issue, ever. The car has been track/class champ, and is currently leading the points this year (always driven to and from the track). It's worked so well since the day of install during build, that I had completely forgotten about it, until seeing this thread.



I used a Lokar 24" braided case cable.

Mounts to carb with supplied fitting/nut.



Used a cheapie autozone universal throttle cable mount to mount the cable too. I just cut off all of the un-needed parts of the mount. I used a total of 8" of the SS braided casing,



The pedal was slightly modified, by using a die grinder with a cut off wheel, to put a thin channel for the throttle cable to pass through. Used the supplied and already fastened Lokar end. Once laid in place, the top of the pedal got a little squeeze to close the gap. After pulling the cable through the ss sleeve, and doing the simple setting of the cable length, the gap that was cut in the pedal, received a good little tack weld. It was simple, it was relatively cheap, and it's been bullet-proof through years of abuse. If the cable ever does need replaced, the die grinder can easily, quickly, and cleanly cut through the tack weld, and simply repeat the process to install new cable itself.

Excel pics.Many may use a Lokar and need to know that cable end is designed specifically for their pedal with the clevis end http://lokar.com/product-pgs/throt-asse ... sembly.jpg Putting a cap weld on the top of the pedal cable groove will be required,I don't see a Lokar GM pedal adapter of any kind.Here is some procedure on the other end http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/thre ... le.214726/