Rear Hatch removal

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Rear Hatch removal

Postby 1100kaw » Tue Jan 29, 2013 8:24 pm

Ok, I pulled the rear glass from my hatch to clean, prep paint and re seal glass.
I want to remove entire hatch to do jams and paintwork.
Now, I have un-loaded a few trunk torsion bars in my day, but, these big S O B's have me a little intimidated.
Is there a trick to get these bars loose, and remove the hatch?
Looks like there is a place to insert a pin in the pivot arm, then maybe remove the bolt in the trunk area?
This still looks scetchy to me.
Darrell
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Re: Rear Hatch removal

Postby cjbiagi » Tue Jan 29, 2013 9:01 pm

The factory pins have "ears" on them so that when they are inserted the ears prevent the pin from backing out. Very similar in design to H body door hinge pins. Theoretically you need to compress the ears and then tap the pin out. However, being in the location that they are in it's pretty much impossible to save the pins so they are generally just tapped out with a hammer and punch. I offer some nice replacement pins if needed, they are a slightly different design that use "c" clips for retention. I am out of them right now but can make some if needed.
Clyde.........75 Monza 2+2
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Re: Rear Hatch removal

Postby 1100kaw » Wed Jan 30, 2013 5:27 pm

Thanks Clyde
I can handle that part, i was really hoping for a trick to take the torsion bars loose with out busting up my knuckes or worse.
If they arent an odd size, i figured i would just go back with some nice stainless bolts with nylocks for the pins. That is what i plan for the doors since they are 3/8"
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Re: Rear Hatch removal

Postby NVEGAR8D » Thu Jan 31, 2013 12:01 am

Hi 1100kw,
I think if you went with shoulder bolts of the right length, you will get a more accurate fit on the hinges and you can still use a nylock nut. I'm pretty sure you can get them in stainless.
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Re: Rear Hatch removal

Postby cjbiagi » Thu Jan 31, 2013 7:40 am

Vega's must be different with regards to the torsion bars, Monza's just have the 2 pins and 2 gas struts that you pop off. It's a very simple procedure on a Monza. Replacement hatch pins as well as door pins are available.
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Re: Rear Hatch removal

Postby cosvega76 » Thu Jan 31, 2013 9:00 am

Clyde,

Vegas didn't start using gas struts until '74. The early cars use torsion springs and a linkage that will crush your luggage when you shut the lid if you leave it on the sides of the hatch area.

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Re: Rear Hatch removal

Postby Monza Harry » Fri Feb 01, 2013 7:35 am

Chuck, I have to be me! How Do You Know This? Please remember we all have these stories and I will share, when somebody starts one I can actually contribute to (have to jog the CRS out of the way) "Harry I can't believe I did that Robbins"
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Re: Rear Hatch removal

Postby 1100kaw » Sat Feb 02, 2013 9:39 pm

yes Chuck
you have it right. Big torsion bars that have to be un-loaded before you knock the pins out and remove hatch.
Guess i will just put on a helmet and heavy gloves and pry them off.
Share the pics of blood and bruises with you all later?
I know someone has done this. Am i making more of it, than there is?????
Darrell
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Re: Rear Hatch removal

Postby 1100kaw » Sat Feb 02, 2013 9:42 pm

Chuck
I see what you mean about the arms taking up the rear area. This may go back togather with gas struts. These torsion bars are noisy and screw up a good place for rear speakers the way the fold in.
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