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The upper part of the drivers door on my Vega wagon sticks out about a half inch in the front, but fits like it should at the back. The door molding should be recessed, but at the front it is nearly flush with the drip edge. There is no door rubber, and the door has never been off to my knowledge. Anyone know why? And more importantly, how do i fix it? Every time i walk by and see it it bugs the crap out of me.

Well Capt. This is going to sound crazy but this is how I adjusted the doors on the wife's car. I had her hold the door while I grabbed the frame at the point of the wind leak and climbed up with my knees on the upper door panel and put my weight into it (220#) and I had to pull! right side is now quite and the left will need a minor tweak yet, I guess I could've used another twenty pounds. Still have to quiet mine down too. This is scary but these aren't as flimsy as they look, just start out gentle as you are a WHOLE LOT younger than I, and don't forget to put the window down before you start just in case. Harry

I agree, the only way to get the upper frame into alignment is to "tweak" it by pushing it back into position. Take it slow and it may take a couple people and a bit if ingenuity and muscle. If the back end fits ok then you are going to have to hold that end while somehow pushing the end that is out. Basically you are gently twisting the upper channel back into position. Yeah, it sounds scary, but that's why body shops have hydraulic pullers, porta power etc. I would probably but a block of wood by the back of the door (that's fits ok) then close the door against the block of wood and then start pushing the area that you are having problems with at the front. This should allow you to get the part that is sticking out pushed back where it should be. Yes, make sure the glass is down and you might have to adjust the door glass channel slightly afterwards, probably not but you will just have to see how the glass rides in the channel

Agree, roll the window down and pull it back in position.

I'd wait until you get new weather stripping. Temporarily install it and tweak the frame as suggested. Use a sheet of paper to slide in the gap and tighten up the gap until you have to tug hard on the paper to remove it. I had to do this on my wagon, but my issues were concentrated at the B pillar. I believe the aftermarket seals are a little smaller than original, so if you adjust now, you may be doing it again later.

Yeah, certainly want to have the weatherstrip installed before doing any aligning.

My doors were aligned until I added the new weatherstriping. Now it has pushed the window frame out. I'll be bending it back in.

My method on the 2+2 hatchback, involved using a 2x4. Shut the door with the 2x4 inbetween the body and the door / window frame down low. then push the upper part inward . It doesnt take much force at all to bend it back. Anyone trying to get into the car after locking the keys in it, will usualyl bend the frame out, to fish a coat hanger in. Thats how they get out of whack many times.

This don't sound as bad as i was thinking it would, seems pretty much straight forward. I helped my grandpa tweak the doors on his 49', and that was a B H. Was wrecked once and doors were bent out of shape. We used a strap, wood blocks, and a winch. Where would i get weather striping and whats a good brand? I wasn't going to get them till after paint but if i need it to adjust the door frame then might as well... I don't think ill be doing very much more this winter until it warms up some. Too low on wood to keep burning in the shop and the oil furnace puts out too little heat for too big a dollar.

Lots of good reviews on this dealer! I purchased mine from him and will be installing them this summer. Harry The Vega link for you: http://www.weatherstripspecial.com/chev ... rstrip.php and a few relevant posts from the board viewtopic.php?f=1&t=41428 , viewtopic.php?f=45&t=41460&p=243866#p243866 and the Monza for the other body styles http://www.weatherstripspecial.com/chev ... rstrip.php

I noticed the site didn't say what brand their seals were. Are they still selling the softseal or did they switch to metro? I was afraid they would cost an arm and a leg but its reasonably priced. They don't list the windshield seal though. I'll need that and the clips as well.

Windshields don't have weatherstriping as they are typicaly glued it.

Clyde was able to get the clips for the windshield, again an H-Body specific part (or at least not widely used), give him a shout and see if he can still get them. You used to be able to get a universal windshield install kit from your autobody supply house but unless you've been walked through this a few times I would leave it to the professionals, a little leak will cost many times more to fix than the install will upfront. If you call the Goat Farm ask about the seals I believe he carries both brands. As stated before he is good to deal with! Maybe tell him you found him through this site and maybe he will help support us with an ad or two to help out Dennis and Colin with the costs of the board. Harry

I was looking at the car today thinking "What the hell should i do next," when i remembered this thread. I took a hold of the upper door frame and pulled. Bent easily and smoothly. Right where it should be now. Thanks for the advise everyone!

Are you referring to the cowl seal? I do have those available.