Negative Camber (an alternate solution)

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Negative Camber (an alternate solution)

Postby finest20 » Tue Apr 23, 2013 11:32 am

Hello all
After reading all the posts here, I wanted to share a solution I had to an old problem....negative camber on the S-10 conversion (or even stock suspensions).
I converted my 71 to an S-10 setup and had alot of negative camber. I got the offset upper bushings and they helped a bit, but not enough. The front still looked funny with the negative camber. Before deciding to drop $450 on a set of adjustable upper arms, I decided to try and modify the stock arms. Here is what i did:
1. Set the lower eccentrics at the halfway point so they were not pushing the lower arms either way
2. Drove the car a bit to get it to settle at ride height and its current suspension settings
3. Parked the car on a flat level surface
4. Placed a level against one wheel so that the bottom of the level was touching the bottom of the tire
5. pulled the level away from the top of the tire until it was perfectly level
6. Measured the distance between the level and the top of the tire (this was the negative offset.....mine was 5/8")

Based on the design of the front, this meant that the total offset was only about 7/16" because any movement of the top would cause the opposite movement of the bottom. So 7/8 divided by 2 = 7/16". So if I move the position of the upper ball joint 7/16" out, the bottom of the tire will go in about 5/16".
Now the modification. Here is where I decided to cut:
picresized_th_1366728158_CIMG0117.jpg


Since the upper arms are not load bearing, they can be easily cut and re-welded. After removing the piece, I tack welded a piece of flat stock to the underside of the arm. Then placed the piece 7/16" away from where it was and tacked it to the flat stock. Once held in place I matched up the outer edges to insure they were in line with the edged of the arms, then tacked those in place as well. Next came filling in the gap with weld. This was done about 1/4" at a time to keep the part from overheating. I welded by alternating side to side until all filled. Once filled, I ground down any overhanging flat stock and filled any gaps in the bottom with weld. Then it was ground and smoothed and repainted. I then did the same to the other side (which was 3/8" off)
The car went for alignment yesterday and the initial "before" measurements for camber were -0.2 (left) and +0.1 (right)
With the eccentrics set in the middle before modifications, I was able to now adjust. I set each side to -0.4 degrees. Caster was +2.0 each side.
Front end is now straight and looks great. Best part was the cost which was nothing but an afternoon of labor.
In the future I might still breakdown and get the adjustable arms, but for now it's great to be able to cruise the streets in a straight ride!!!!!
Put it through its paces and stressed the arms with numerous sharp turns and corners and they are strong with no issues with the welds.
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Re: Negative Camber (an alternate solution)

Postby marco_1978_spyder » Tue Apr 23, 2013 8:58 pm

Moved to "best of" category. Hope ya don't mind! Great post, thanks for sharing.
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Re: Negative Camber (an alternate solution)

Postby ROB » Tue Apr 23, 2013 9:43 pm

I do see one down side though: this will move your wheels out more. Depending on the backspacing you use, this could be bad, eespecially when the front track is already 1" wider than the rear. Another solution would be to move the lower ball joint in, therefore making the front track smaller, and/or matching the rear. This in turn makes wheel selection easier.
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Re: Negative Camber (an alternate solution)

Postby 440sunbird » Fri May 03, 2013 1:54 pm

U didn't have to do all that work. 7/16 is not that much. If u would have welded the holes up on the k member that connect to the area where the control arms connect. Weld up only half the hole and grind the holes to shortened that k member bolt distance 7/16. I may have went 1/2 inch not sure. I did this along time ago and I believe I measured the off set bushing and figured if that bushing moves the upper control out. Then I figure instead I will move the lower control arm in. Before installing the k member take a cable style come a long and connect it to both control arms. U can connect it at the bottom side of the control arm just hook the hook on that control arm brace . Now these cars r unibody so there easy to tweek now tighten the come a long up and release it. U may do this a few times as your only needing it moved 7/16. After u move it and the k member fits. I would weld the k member up in that area at the control arms. I have did this and I didn't have to use those off set upper control arm bushing.
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