Stock rod length?

Moderator: Moderators

Postby Fasterthansome » Thu Jan 11, 2007 7:22 am

http://www.ohiocrank.com/rotating.html

Take a look at some of these Assy.
STRAIGHTLINE RACING
Home of the world's quickest stock suspension H-body
Fasterthansome
 
Posts: 749
Joined: Tue Jul 11, 2006 8:58 am


Postby NixVegaGT » Thu Jan 11, 2007 9:52 am

WOW stuff for Chevy is cheap! I'm with Bruce on the rod length. Chevy largely overlooked rod/stroke ratio. The worst being the 454 at 1.53! DAMN. No performance advantage to have a better ratio (arguable depending on use) but you'll get better longevity and more piece of mind at higher rpm with something more like 1.6 (6inch rod)(You end up around 1.48 with the 5.656 rod OH MY GOD I DONT LIKE EVEN TYPING IT). I prefer closer to 1.7 and ended up with 1.68. Bruce is running 1.8! Better for high rpms.

Here's a technical paper explaining the Pros and Cons. There are benefits to having a shorter rod better cylinder filling dynamics but I think the cons outweigh the benefits.

http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech-c.htm

I think this is a factor that is not often considered when us regular guys build engines.

Wow, the more I read that technical paper the more I like it! This is important info.
- Nic '73 Vega GT "DogBoxx" Batwing LS1
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2357894
User avatar
NixVegaGT
 
Posts: 2196
Joined: Sat Nov 11, 2006 2:24 am
Location: Minnesota

1973 Chevrolet Vega GT

Postby Fasterthansome » Thu Jan 11, 2007 11:37 am

Just thought I would mention some builders are going with short rod combos for pump gas builds.
Less chance of detonation they say.
STRAIGHTLINE RACING
Home of the world's quickest stock suspension H-body
Fasterthansome
 
Posts: 749
Joined: Tue Jul 11, 2006 8:58 am

Postby cosvega76 » Thu Jan 11, 2007 11:47 am

I ran the short 400 rods in my 383. The car ran 12.80s with a TH350, 1800 stall, and 3.42 gears. I put 28,000 miles on it until I kicked out 3 rods autocrossing - but that's another tale...

Chuck
cosvega76
 
Posts: 2740
Joined: Mon Jul 03, 2006 8:36 am
Location: Moscow Mills, MO

1973 Chevrolet Vega GT

Postby mldeolde » Thu Jan 11, 2007 12:27 pm

i want to here more from the guys using h-beam rods in there 383's. are you guys using the thick oil pan gaskets like the one pieces i use? DAMN. I VE ALWAYS BEEN TOLD THAT WAS AN ABSOLUTE NO NO FOR AN H-BODY PAN CONFIGURATION FROM EVERY SOURCE I'VE CONTACTED. BECAUSE OF THAT I'VE PASSED UP ALOT OF GOOD DEALS FOR H-BEAM RODS IN FAVOR OF 4340 CAP SCREW I-BEAMS WHICH ARE GOOD ENOUIGH FOR MOST APPLICATIONS BUT H-BEAMS ARE BETTER INSURANCE-BUMMER,BUMMER,BUMMER!!!!!!!!
User avatar
mldeolde
 
Posts: 1718
Joined: Mon Jun 26, 2006 4:21 pm
Location: Riverside,California

1975 Chevrolet Monza IMSA

Postby Fasterthansome » Thu Jan 11, 2007 12:44 pm

I am running H beams in a 400 with a stock camaro pan that was slightly modified :D The #1+2 rods tried to hit bottom of pan and a ball peen hammer took care of that. I cant say for sure but h beams with thicker gasket and stock pan should clear.
STRAIGHTLINE RACING
Home of the world's quickest stock suspension H-body
Fasterthansome
 
Posts: 749
Joined: Tue Jul 11, 2006 8:58 am

Postby myvega » Thu Jan 11, 2007 1:56 pm

My biggest complaint with H beam rods is that normally, the block will have to be clearanced more, thereby running the risk of breaking into a water jacket, and, they typically weigh more. They also create some camshaft clearance issues, and a small base circle cam is mandatory with them. Unless you're going circle track racing with your ride, I'd stick with a good forged I beam. Scat, Cat, Howards, and several other mfgrs. offer a decent low cost forged Rod. Now, if you're gonna run spray, then you're opening up a whole 'nuther can of worms. I have in the past run H beams,and they worked ok with the Moroso pan. For overall brute durability, the H beam is probably the best bet. But, up to 600 HP and no nitrous, there's nothing wrong with an I beam rod. Remember also, that 383s are NOT high RPM motors. They are torque monsters down low, not something you spin to 8 grand. I've gone as quick as 9.72 and I shift at 6500.
Jim Sheaffer
User avatar
myvega
 
Posts: 230
Joined: Wed Jun 28, 2006 5:34 pm
Location: Newport, Pa.

1974 Chevrolet Vega Hatchback

Postby NixVegaGT » Thu Jan 11, 2007 2:34 pm

Three rods! Holy Crap! That must have been scary. How'd it do autocrossing?
- Nic '73 Vega GT "DogBoxx" Batwing LS1
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2357894
User avatar
NixVegaGT
 
Posts: 2196
Joined: Sat Nov 11, 2006 2:24 am
Location: Minnesota

1973 Chevrolet Vega GT

Postby 2lucke4u » Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:46 am

75tc
milodon just for monza/vega sumitt,, the oil pan rail was ground to clear the rod caps and bolts,we left about 1/16 clearance,over 50 passes and no problems yet,no problem with the gasket sealing,,
Charles
80 monza coupe,black,355,.488 lift cam,performer intake.B&M th350,tci 2200 stall,3.42 posi,street car,
74 GTO 350 4bbl,3sp,3.08 posi,buccaneer red
68 Firebird 400, 4sp,3.08 posi,black
User avatar
2lucke4u
 
Posts: 539
Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 8:16 pm
Location: Cassville WI

1978 Chevrolet Monza Coupe

Postby cosvega76 » Fri Jan 12, 2007 12:27 pm

NixVegaGT wrote:Three rods! Holy Crap! That must have been scary. How'd it do autocrossing?


Let's just say, make sure you use the correct pickup for your non-high-volume oil pump if you're corner-burning...

I have a nice Milodon oil pan! It only has a portion of the left side blown out!

Chuck
cosvega76
 
Posts: 2740
Joined: Mon Jul 03, 2006 8:36 am
Location: Moscow Mills, MO

1973 Chevrolet Vega GT

oil pan clearance

Postby candipogo » Sat Jan 13, 2007 8:36 pm

i have a milodon pan on my custom built 383. i have a 75 vega. the pan is 4" deep back to the drop at the rear of the pan. i think these rods are 5.7 inches.
phil
phil leadford
candipogo
 
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Oct 08, 2006 5:40 pm
Location: hernando,ms.

Previous

Return to Engine Tech

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 11 guests