Plumbing lines for dual remote oil filter/w Hardy headers

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Plumbing lines for dual remote oil filter/w Hardy headers

Postby JohnP » Thu Apr 19, 2007 11:17 am

I got one of the PermaCool dual remote oil filter kits. Placed filters in engine compartment, drivers side on wheel well just behind back of headlight.

The rubber lines that come off the adapter that replaces the stock filter are really thick and come dangerously close to the header tube that is bent to wrap around where the oil filter originally would go.

Thinking of flaring some 1/2 inch aluminum or copper tubing, and bending that to snake past the header tube. This will take less space and not melt if it touches the header. Think that is a good idea?

Anyone using remote filter with DH headers? How did you do it?

What a pain to get the old oil filter off, loosen headers and still had to crush the filter with large channel lock plyers to get it out.

thanks
JohnP
 



Postby Bacchus » Thu Apr 19, 2007 12:37 pm

Use a shorter filter. Works fine on mine. I don't have to losen the headers at all to get the filter off.
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Postby greg72 » Thu Apr 19, 2007 12:37 pm

From what i recall most remote oil filter kit hoses have straight ends on them . This means that you need a greater bend radius from the block up to the remote filter location....which can increase the potential of the fitment problems you describe ---- too close to the header tubes.

I have Don Hardy headers in my 72 Vega with a Trans-dapt dual remote oil filter kit . I replaced the hoses that came in the kit with Russell steel braided hoses and AN hose ends / fittings. I used 90 or 45 degree fittings coming off the block (i don't remember exactly which and i am currently at work so i cannot check for certain). I do know that this was more to resolve fitment issues than to pretty up the engine bay with braided hose :lol:
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Postby greg72 » Thu Apr 19, 2007 12:40 pm

Bacchus wrote:Use a shorter filter. Works fine on mine. I don't have to losen the headers at all to get the filter off.


I can vouch for this as well. I use a short filter on my Mirage with Hooker Headers.....works great.

If I was to build my Vega today I would probably use a shorter filter rather than the remote kit. The Vega was built in the early 80's --- a remote oil filter was on the official 80's pro street cars checklist :lol:
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What is part number on that short filter?

Postby JohnP » Fri Apr 20, 2007 9:46 am

What is part number for the short filter?

Till I can figure out how to plumb this I guess I'll just put in a short filter.

I believe you guy when you say a short filter will work with the Hardy headers, but its going to have to be really short, and I think I'll still have to loosen the header to get it in or out.

I was under the car for awhile trying to figure out best route for hoses. I almost need some kind of S bend to get the hose to run down along side the oil pan then come up before motor mount, past steering linkage and up past steering box to filters.

thanks for input.
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Postby Sirshredalot » Fri Apr 20, 2007 12:10 pm

PH30 in a fram
S30 in an STP
L20049 in Purolator
PL20049 in a Purolator PureOne

Of all of them Id use the purolator or the STP...the frams are very restrictive.

I dont know the number for a bosch or a mobile one or K and N.
I dont think KandN makes a short style filter for the SBC

I like the Bosch the best...a true bypass filter
The Purolator.

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Postby Bacchus » Fri Apr 20, 2007 5:30 pm

I use the PH30. I have 50 psi at idle.
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Postby Sirshredalot » Fri Apr 20, 2007 5:55 pm

I know that on all of my vehicles, everytime I switched from a fram to purolator or a bosch I gained about 3-5 psi at idle...and the oil pressure stopped fluctuating.

The differences are much more apparent with a standard pressure oil pump than a hig volume or high pressure pump.
I know that on my Volkswagen I cannot run a fram because theyre very sensitive to oil pressure and i lost 10 psi at idle when I put on a fram...and at higher pressures pressure would peak then fall off rapidly...The filter media in a fram is very heavy/thick and restricts flow.

The high flow racing filters, like the HP5 or HP1 are good because theyre very low restriction...good filters.
The bypass system in a regular fram is weak also....either prone to bypassing too often/soon or not bypassing and clogging causing restriction.

The best filters on the market are bosch/pure one purolators/ Mobile1/ K&N.
Although the frams do have the highest burst strength...

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Postby JohnP » Fri Apr 20, 2007 8:27 pm

I had bought 2 fram to go on the dual remote filter, I will toss those and replace with Purolator. I did not know frams were so restrictive.

In mean time, til parts come in to plumb the remote right, I got a short filter, an ac delco.
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Postby barebonesracecars » Fri Apr 20, 2007 8:28 pm

For remote lines, Greg has a good idea.

I did basically the same thing, but had custom 1/2" I.D. hydraulic hoses made up (yeah, 2500 psi is overkill, but stay with me).

If you have a NAPA or other good parts store that's in a 'farm belt' area (or a farm machinery dealer), they can probably make hoses on-site. Parker-Hannifin makes bulk hose (rubber with steel braided inner core) and 90* AN ends with a nice, sweeping bend. They should also have the adapter fittings you need to go from pipe to AN thread (NOTE: if your parts guy doesn't know what 'AN' fittings are, ask for 'JIC' fittings...same thing, but it's farm machinery terminology).

Just be sure to have them crimp ONLY one end of each hose until you get them home, test fit them for length, and install the other ends in the orientation you need.

I have my remote filter where the battery used to be, hanging down through a hole in the sheet metal so the oil drains directly into a pan. The hoses run along side the pan, over the steering box, and into the filter. With Hooker headers they are close, but using the above fittings, you can easily turn them towards the block, then tighten. I also used a rubber-coated hose clamp bolted to a blank hole near the front of the block to help keep them there.
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SHORT FILTER does not fit with DON HARDY headers.

Postby JohnP » Sun Apr 22, 2007 5:50 pm

That does sound like a good idea. I remember being in a NAPA where they even has some tubing already flared with fittings.

But I was searching on eBay and found some used stainless hose with AN fittings already attached. straight on one end and 90 on the other, 40 inches long and covered in heat sheild kevlar. Seemed like good deal, stuff comes from a NASCAR team and a guy sells all kind of hoses and fittings. I could not buy the individual stuff and make it up myself any less then what I'm getting these for. Just the heat sheild wrap is worth it. So, once the arrive I will plumb with them. If I had not found these I would have found someone make a hose like you suggested.

As to the issue of using a short filter. I bought a ACDelco PF454 which is about 3 inched long. It will not fit without loossening the header tube. I do not know what short filter you guys use but it has to be shorter then 2.5 inches to fit on a DON HARDY headered car. Short filter might work with HOOKERS, but not DH. And one 2.5 inches does not seem like enough filter. To me now worth the hassle to rig remote filters.
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Postby Bacchus » Sun Apr 22, 2007 5:55 pm

I have Don Hardy headers. I use a PH30. I don't know how long it is. I have never had to losen a header.
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Postby 75TC » Tue Apr 24, 2007 5:31 am

I kind of like the Frams, I use the Xtended Gaurd though. I did some investigating and learned that those (according to my sources) are just about the best in debris removal that you can get. But then again you are paying $10 a filter.
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