LS1 Swap info

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LS1 Swap info

Postby bill1978v8 » Sun Jul 22, 2007 1:30 pm

Hi all,

I've been getting a lot of questions about swapping the LSX engine into the H-body. Here is a little backround on my car. It is a 1978 Monza 2+2 that came with the factory 5.0 V8 option as well as A/c (missing when I got it), tilt wheel, etc. It had 55,000 miles on it when I got it about 5 years ago.

I decided on the LS1 after driving a 2000 Z28, I was very impressed with the power and the flat torque curve. I did a lot of research on what was needed to get the LS1 into an h-body. I ended up buying a 1998 Z28 engine that had 40,000 miles on it.
Here is a general list of parts needed:

Engine- '97-2007 LSx series (4.8, 5.3, 5.7, 6.0, 6.2, 7.0 liter)

Oil pan- Autokraft oilpan & pickup

Mounts- V8Monza.com Monza engine mounts

Mount adapters- custom 1/4" plate drilled to mate LS1 to Monza

Radiator- Monza V8 radiator from non power steering car (straight
outlet)

Radiator hoses- Custom to mate engine to Monza radiator

Electric fan-

Exhaust- '98 F-body manifolds, cut flange to mate to 2.5" collector
on my exsisting exhaust, AIR tubes welded shut
and ground smooth

Fuel System- Walbro 340 external pump, -6 line, Corvette fuel
pressure regulator/filter assembly, return to tank
Fuel pump relay

Wiring- F-body wiring harness reworked by Wait4me from
LS1tech, deleting all un-needed wiring, reprogrammed
'98 computer deleting VATS and all emissions stuff with
EFIlive. All this wired into the Monza harness

Transmission- I'm running a TH350 so I was able to use the '98 flex
plate with a spacer for the hub of the torque con-
vertor.
Alternator- f-body with a custom mount to bring it up to about the
three O'clock position. On the 98 it needs a 480mv
resistor in the wire to the alternator or you'll burn it up
(they are $130.00 new, ask me how I know)

Steering- This is where it gets tricky, you can run the stock
steering IF you use the Autokraft oil pan and raise the engine to clear.



Brakes- You'll need a 7" power booster or go manual

Suspension- You'll need to swap to V6 springs to get the front end
down to where it should be

If I missed something I'll add it later. I know you'll be asking what's the bottom line? It wasn't cheap but it was worth it. I have about $5000 to $5500 in it so far. The rack swap will end up about an extra $300.

Bill
Last edited by bill1978v8 on Fri Dec 04, 2009 7:28 pm, edited 2 times in total.
1975 Monza 2+2, 4.3L V8, Auto
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Postby 2lucke4u » Sun Jul 22, 2007 3:48 pm

Bill
Thanks,,let us know about the rack swap,,parts ect,,,AWSOME,,, can't wait to sell something so I can get started,,
Charles
80 monza coupe,black,355,.488 lift cam,performer intake.B&M th350,tci 2200 stall,3.42 posi,street car,
74 GTO 350 4bbl,3sp,3.08 posi,buccaneer red
68 Firebird 400, 4sp,3.08 posi,black
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Postby bill1978v8 » Mon Jul 23, 2007 5:36 pm

Good luck! It's worth it. I had to buy drag radials (235/60-15's) to hook up on the street. My 245/50-15's would just spin when you touched the gas. I haven't had it down the 1/4 yet but I'm ichin to get it there. It did 0-60 in 4.8 on my G-tech last year spinning through first and second. I think it'll be in the mid 12's but we'll see!

Good luck!

Bill
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Postby mad max motorsports » Mon Jul 30, 2007 1:13 pm

Wow, great I am slowly working on this very swap. Looks like I am going in the right direction.
Have you thought about using the Caddy CTS-V oil pan? It appears to clear the steering.
What did you do for the rear end?

Thanks
Jim
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Postby bill1978v8 » Mon Jul 30, 2007 8:00 pm

I tried the CTS-V pan and it is about 2" deeper then the F-body. It left me with about 2.5" of clearence. The F-body pan is about the best factory pan. There are now some aftermarket pans out that have good clearence too.

I used the 7.5" monza housing and put 28 spline axles and a 2000 Camaro posi with S10 28 spline axles. It was fine behind my 355 but the LS1 has more torque down low and after I drove the LS1 last summer it started to make noise. I'm going to have it rebuilt by Jim (Monzaz). It should hold up for a while.

Bill
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Postby mad max motorsports » Tue Jul 31, 2007 9:14 am

So according to the above, with either pan (Camaro and/or CTS-V) I will not be able to use the stock steering linkage system?

Thanks
Jim
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Postby bill1978v8 » Tue Jul 31, 2007 6:56 pm

that is correct. You could raise the engine up a bit and cut the front of the oil pan and weld it to make it shallower then the linkage may clear. You could also bend the pitman arm and the idler arm down for clearence but I do not recommend that. I had a junk F-body pan that I gave to my welder and he welded a plate on but he made it to shallow and the rod would end up rubbing when I tried to see what I had as far as internal clearence on the engine stand. I'd Love to use the stock steering but it just doesn't seem like it would work very well. Let me know if you have any other options.

Thanks,

Bill
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Postby mad max motorsports » Wed Aug 01, 2007 9:35 am

Thanks for the info, hope you don't mind me hi-jacking your thread...LOL

Guess I will have to try raising the engine and changing the pan.
I will have to take a closer look at the pans and the steering system, according to the litature I have it looks like the CTS-V pan is not as deep up front then the Camaro pan.


When you mentioned above the brake booster which one did you use? direct bolt on?

Have you considered the 4L60 that goes with this engine?
Sounds like the old school TH350 fits easier but does not have the OD highway cruise gear. What engine RPM are you turning at 70mph?

Thanks
Jim
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Postby bill1978v8 » Wed Aug 01, 2007 12:39 pm

Not a problem with the hijack as it's related.

I have a pic somewhere of the two pans side by side. not a big difference in depth but there is. The CTS-V is shallower.

I used a manual booster because it was easier at the time. I'm going to purchase an aftermarket 7" dual diaphragm booster over the winter and install it. The Monza m/c bolts to the firewall and you need the manual rod and run two short lines to it.

I used the 350 turbo because I had it. It is built with a 3000 stall. I have 3.73's so it spins pretty good on the freeway. I'm going to try a 200-4r instead of the 4L60/4L65 trans.

Do you have any pics of yours?

Bill
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Postby mad max motorsports » Thu Aug 02, 2007 10:00 am

I was just looking at my diagrams of the two pans (CTS-V vs F-body) and it realy depends on where the interference is actually happening. At the very front of the pan the F-body pan has about a 0.5 in advantage though as one followes the pan towards the rear the F-body pan starts ramping down to the sump much sooner and the F-body sump starts about 0.75 to 1.0 further forward then the CTS-V. The ramp to the sump on the CTS-V pan is also shorter and not as deep.

If you have a photo of either pan could you please mark (dimensions also is possible) where the interference occures.

I have a photo of the car after I picked it up but I will have to wait till lunch.

Again
many thanks,
Jim
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Postby bill1978v8 » Thu Aug 02, 2007 7:50 pm

The problem is where the centerlink goes over the crossmember. If you have a look at where the stock crossmember is you see what I mean. The LS1 is a deep skirt block that comes down fartherthen the gen I so space is at a premium under there.

My old computer had all my pics and I lost them when it crashed.

Bill
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oil pan question

Postby Dr. Jeckel » Wed Nov 21, 2007 7:09 pm

http://www.milodon.com/oil-pans/street- ... bchevy.asp
- LS / GEN III -
ENGINE SWAP PANS

#30915

LOW PROFILE ENGINE SWAP -
LS1, LS2, LS6 & LS7
Allows installation of LS and Gen III engines into early pre-1975 Camaro, Chevelle, 68 & up Novas and 55-57 Chevys. While this pan uses heavy duty steel and double thick pan rails, it is actually 5 1/2 pounds lighter than the factory aluminum oil pan. The increased oil capacity and increased oil control of the Milodon pan allows for consistent oil pressure under heavy usage and more available power.
The factory filter location on the pan is replaced by a remote oil filter kit that allows convenient placement as desired. The oil pan includes the fitting plate and fittings where the oil exists the block. The additional required #21575 filter kit includes all other required brass fittings and 3 feet of 10 AN, 250 PSI line. These push-together oil lines can be cut to length and are easy to assemble and very secure.

Pan Capacity is 7 Quarts Plus Filter -
6" Sump Depth

All chassis, except 62-67 Nova & 55-57 Chevy
30915

1955-57 Chevy
30916

anyone looked into this pan, looks very low profile but am wondering if it is enough. Can't find a minimum clearence measurement from steering linkage to bottom of block.
Thanks, James.
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Postby bill1978v8 » Wed Nov 21, 2007 7:43 pm

I'd love to say that would work but I still think it is not enough clearence for the center link unless you raise the engine up a bit. The front where cylinders 1,3 and 2,4 are is the problem area. I hope there is an easy solution but as of yet I did not find it.

Bill
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Postby bill1978v8 » Wed Nov 21, 2007 7:56 pm

CTS-V (top) and F-body pan (notched).
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Postby bill1978v8 » Wed Nov 21, 2007 7:58 pm

Vega with LS1. Not sure what he did. Looks like possible bending of Idler arm and Pitman arm. Not real sure.

Bill
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