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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 1:19 pm
by bill1978v8

PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 7:00 pm
by Dr. Jeckel
I don't suppose that you have any "minimum clearence" dimensions of pan to linkage and from the front of pan back to clear the linkage?
This would be the most important dimensions for finding a pan to fit.

Thanks, James.

PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 7:24 pm
by bill1978v8
All my measurements were on my old computer and the info is gone with a lot of picture. What I can tell you is that with the engine bolted in using the stock frame plates, stock type motor mounts (mounts from V8Monza.com with custom adapter plates) and the trans in the stock V8 location, the F-body pan clears the stock crossmember by about an inch between the top of the crossmember and the pan.

Bill

PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 12:20 am
by Dr. Jeckel
Thank you much :)

PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 5:37 pm
by bill1978v8
some old pictures I found of the steering to oil pickup problem:

Re: LS1 Swap info

PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2008 8:37 pm
by bill1978v8
Here is my final rack set up. I had to buy an Autokraft oil pan to make it all work. With this oil pan I had to run the oil pressure gauge to the back of the block instead of down on the side of the pan due to exhaust interference. Driving this car with this set up it is a lot of fun!! (LS1, turbo 350 w/3000 stall, 3.73 posi and 235/60-15 drag radials)


Bill

Re: LS1 Swap info

PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2008 9:03 pm
by speedphreake
What rack did you end up with? How's it handle and steer with it?

Re: LS1 Swap info

PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2008 9:14 pm
by spyder_xlch
I'm also wondering how the rack handles/steers compaired to the stock steering. Did you put the front anti-sway bar back on? (it's off in the pics)

Re: LS1 Swap info

PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2008 9:16 pm
by bill1978v8
it's a 73 240 Z rack. It drives nice and there doesn't seem to be any bump steer. It handles well for 145SR-15's fronts, 235/60-15 drag radials and no front sway bar. I built it to go fast in a straight line but I have everything to make it corner too. Maybe in the future I see how it does with that set up.

Re: LS1 Swap info

PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 5:08 pm
by waybad
bill1978v8 wrote:Here is my final rack set up. I had to buy an Autokraft oil pan to make it all work. With this oil pan I had to run the oil pressure gauge to the back of the block instead of down on the side of the pan due to exhaust interference. Driving this car with this set up it is a lot of fun!! (LS1, turbo 350 w/3000 stall, 3.73 posi and 235/60-15 drag radials)


Bill

What did you use for motor/frame mounts and what did you do for engine set back? Thanks for your time TC

Re: LS1 Swap info

PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 8:04 pm
by bill1978v8
I used the stock frame mounts with V8Monza.com motor mounts in the stock location. I used adapter plates to mate the motor mounts to the block. Gen I is three bolt and Gen III is four bolt. I kept the trans in the stock location so I didn't have to mess with the torque arm or driveshaft.

BIll

Re: LS1 Swap info

PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 8:37 pm
by waybad
bill1978v8 wrote:I used the stock frame mounts with V8Monza.com motor mounts in the stock location. I used adapter plates to mate the motor mounts to the block. Gen I is three bolt and Gen III is four bolt. I kept the trans in the stock location so I didn't have to mess with the torque arm or driveshaft.

BIll

Cool! Thanks TC

Re: LS1 Swap info

PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 9:59 pm
by mad max motorsports
Unfortunaly I have not made much progress with mine as I have been fixing other vehicles :(

Couple of questions you may be able to answer though.
1) What is the tighest clearance between your hood and engine?
It looks like this swap give more room there.
2) Did you buy a new 240Z rack?
3) What did you use for tie rods?
4) Your estimate of how much the engine would have to be raised to clear the steering?

Thanks for the assistance,
Jim

Re: LS1 Swap info

PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2008 8:04 pm
by bill1978v8
1) What is the tighest clearance between your hood and engine?
It looks like this swap give more room there.
2) Did you buy a new 240Z rack?
3) What did you use for tie rods?
4) Your estimate of how much the engine would have to be raised to clear the steering?



1) There is a lot of clearence. The alternator is the high point in mine because I moved it up on the top passenger side.
2) No, I used a 240 rack that had low miles and was tight. It was $20 so that is another reason I used it.
3) The inner tie rods are stock but shortened. The outers are stock with about a half inch milled off the ends.
4) The engine can be raised and brought forward a bit to clear the steering but you would need to get an Autokraft oil pan (sheetmetal) and modify it for tie rod clearence on full lock.

Hope this helps.

Bill

Re: LS1 Swap info

PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2008 12:37 pm
by mad max motorsports
Thanks,
One more if I may... :)
what was used to connect the steering shaft to the rack?

Ok actually two.... :lol:

Looks like you used the Z car crossmember with the rack, correct?