??? about oilpans and front engine mounts

[DEMON Precision]

is it the steering linkage or the k member that dictates the need for a special oilpan ? and could someone post some images of the hooker mounts installed ? i,ve got a set and don,t know how they are to be installed LOL

thanx

mikey

[v8astregt]

I don't have any pics of the mounts installed outside of the car, but they're not too abstract. They are kind of like ears, and the 2" wide section sticks out to the side of the engine. There is a 1" spacer looking thingy (official term) that utilizes the upper water pump bolts. Then there are two holes right next to each other... these go to the two side by side hold on the bottom of the block in front, right next to the timing cover, and right above the oilpan. Some blocks have the holes, all blocks had the bosses. My 327 block I used for my latest engine had one pair of holes drilled, but I had to drill the second pair!


As far as the oilpan, it is the steering linkage that interferes. The bolts on the K-member touch too, so I had to cut the tips off of them so they didn't wear through.

[DEMON Precision]

I don't have any pics of the mounts installed outside of the car, but they're not too abstract. They are kind of like ears, and the 2" wide section sticks out to the side of the engine. There is a 1" spacer looking thingy (official term) that utilizes the upper water pump bolts. Then there are two holes right next to each other... these go to the two side by side hold on the bottom of the block in front, right next to the timing cover, and right above the oilpan. Some blocks have the holes, all blocks had the bosses. My 327 block I used for my latest engine had one pair of holes drilled, but I had to drill the second pair!


As far as the oilpan, it is the steering linkage that interferes. The bolts on the K-member touch too, so I had to cut the tips off of them so they didn't wear through.

thanx for the info , i think i,m gonna install a rack and build a custom K-member , the pan i plan to run won,t work unless i move the motor back and that,s not happening .

and as for the mounts how high do the sit off the frame ? i,m missing those spacers

[ColinOpseth]

yo.
I'm running Hooker mounts on my '72 Vega. They work great; better now that I modified mine. Beware, the pics are ugly. My bandsaw kept popping the belt. I'm going to grind them nice and smooth in a few weeks and have them powdercoated black.

[ColinOpseth]

I guess pics would help...

As for clearance, the k-member is what hits. You can either space your motor up or use a notched oilpan. Milodon makes a V8 swap pan but it's only for 2 piece rear seal engines. My engine is 1-piece so I need to modify my pan a bit before I bolt the engine in for the last time.

Later,
Colin

[ozzymoose]

Sorry guys this is a bit off topic but i gotta ask!!

Colin, is that a dizzy i see on the front of the block??If so whats it off?? how does it fit and how does it work?? Its not part of an argo system or the like from a speed boat or something is it?? cheers--- Moose

[v8astregt]

It's actually an LT1 from the 90's. It's the infamous "Optispark". The rest of the LT1 is good, but the Opti is the one flaw with them. Water can get in sometimes, then they don't work properly, etc....

[ColinOpseth]

Sorry guys this is a bit off topic but i gotta ask!!

Colin, is that a dizzy i see on the front of the block??If so whats it off?? how does it fit and how does it work?? Its not part of an argo system or the like from a speed boat or something is it?? cheers--- Moose

hey,
the motor is out of a '93 Z28 Camaro. It's an LT1 The distributor is called an Optispark and is basically a high performance optical-based sensor/distributor.

[ColinOpseth]

It's actually an LT1 from the 90's. It's the infamous "Optispark". The rest of the LT1 is good, but the Opti is the one flaw with them. Water can get in sometimes, then they don't work properly, etc....

You are correct, sir. The later Optisparks from 95+ were vented and that pretty much solved the carbon tracking and water sensitivity problems. Typically, the water pump pisses on the opti and takes the opti out.

It's a rather expensive piece but I intend to install a Deltech system anyway

Later,
Colin

[mldeolde]

i have a few views of both the mounts and oil pan in my garage....,.......

[straws]

So going along with this thread, the vega I just purchased would not turn around in a footbal field when I finally got it running last night....new starter $100.

So I crawled under there today with the wheels turned, and low and behold, the tie rods & center link want to hit the oil pan. I guess that this means that I need the vega pan?

Does anyone have suggestions on the easiest way to go/least expensive way to go? I saw some online for near $300, then I saw some chrome jobs for about $75. Any opinions?

[cjbiagi]

I really doubt any of the chrome ones you saw were for a V8 H-body. I have never seen one, unless somebody had their's chromed. They are on ebay from time to time. I sold a couple of very nice refinished ones for $125-$150 or so. Unfinished, used ones can generally be had cheaper, however some are beat up a bit. You need a H-body pan to clear the tie rods and grease fittings.

[tony]

here is a liink to the hooker front mount instructions

http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Tec ... 608HKR.pdf

[ColinOpseth]

You can run a Milodon if your block has a 1 piece rear seal. The V8 Monza pan will fit. Or, you can sledgehammer it a bit for clearance but I'd be nervous of doing that!!

My motor is in the car now. I test-fit the k-member and the stock LT1 pan clears but I haven't checked the centerlink yet -crossing fingers-

[tony]

so I just picked up a milodon pan for my 400 block. it has a two piece rear seal, what kind of problem will i have?