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by **ColinOpseth** » Thu Dec 21, 2006 9:44 pm

I don't think you'll have an issue. You'll want to make sure the crank doesn't hit the pan. I believe you can buy a Milodon oil pump pickup that will fit that pan.

The pan I have looks like a quality piece. I can't use it because my engine is one-piece rear seal, though.

Later,
Colin

by **Fasterthansome** » Fri Dec 22, 2006 11:31 am

DEMON Precision wrote:
v8astregt wrote:I don't have any pics of the mounts installed outside of the car, but they're not too abstract. They are kind of like ears, and the 2" wide section sticks out to the side of the engine. There is a 1" spacer looking thingy (official term) that utilizes the upper water pump bolts. Then there are two holes right next to each other... these go to the two side by side hold on the bottom of the block in front, right next to the timing cover, and right above the oilpan. Some blocks have the holes, all blocks had the bosses. My 327 block I used for my latest engine had one pair of holes drilled, but I had to drill the second pair!

As far as the oilpan, it is the steering linkage that interferes. The bolts on the K-member touch too, so I had to cut the tips off of them so they didn't wear through.

thanx for the info , i think i,m gonna install a rack and build a custom K-member , the pan i plan to run won,t work unless i move the motor back and that,s not happening .

and as for the mounts how high do the sit off the frame ? i,m missing those spacers

I am working on a tubular K member with rack mount just in case you may be intrested

The K member doesnt create a problem in mine it is the steering linkage thats the problem.

by **mldeolde** » Fri Dec 22, 2006 11:48 am

NONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i have the same pan in my IMSA.......................

by **ColinOpseth** » Fri Dec 22, 2006 1:21 pm

Fasterthansome wrote:
DEMON Precision wrote:
v8astregt wrote:I don't have any pics of the mounts installed outside of the car, but they're not too abstract. They are kind of like ears, and the 2" wide section sticks out to the side of the engine. There is a 1" spacer looking thingy (official term) that utilizes the upper water pump bolts. Then there are two holes right next to each other... these go to the two side by side hold on the bottom of the block in front, right next to the timing cover, and right above the oilpan. Some blocks have the holes, all blocks had the bosses. My 327 block I used for my latest engine had one pair of holes drilled, but I had to drill the second pair!

As far as the oilpan, it is the steering linkage that interferes. The bolts on the K-member touch too, so I had to cut the tips off of them so they didn't wear through.

thanx for the info , i think i,m gonna install a rack and build a custom K-member , the pan i plan to run won,t work unless i move the motor back and that,s not happening .

and as for the mounts how high do the sit off the frame ? i,m missing those spacers

I am working on a tubular K member with rack mount just in case you may be intrested The K member doesnt create a problem in mine it is the steering linkage thats the problem.

I'm in. I want one.

by **Fasterthansome** » Sat Dec 23, 2006 10:53 am

As soon as it is complete I will post pics. Of course it always seems to take me longer than I plan.

by **ColinOpseth** » Sat Dec 23, 2006 12:22 pm

What rack are you going with?

by **SWT Racing** » Sun Dec 24, 2006 11:19 pm

ColinOpseth wrote:What rack are you going with?

You need a pretty narrow rack so bumpsteer doesn't rear it's ugly head.

by **Fasterthansome** » Mon Dec 25, 2006 12:19 pm

The decision on which rack to use has not been decided yet.
We have a couple around the shop that look promising though.

by **candipogo** » Tue Jan 02, 2007 10:03 pm

i have the milodon pan and oil pump pick up in my 75 vega. i have a 383 stroker. i am using the hooker-trans dapt engine mounts. i have spacers that i had made from solid steel stock that are 2 1/4" high(thick). this is what i had to have to get aprox. 3/8" clearance between my steering link and the midlon pan. it's 4" deep back to the drop. in other words you may have to measure and then make your own spacers to get the oil pan clearance you need. but i think the milodon is the easiest one to work with in a vega.
much luck
phil

by **ColinOpseth** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 4:56 am

I think you'll be OK but make sure your crank doesn't hit the pan.

by **Fasterthansome** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 7:24 am

Chevette rack.

by **mldeolde** » Thu Feb 01, 2007 1:03 am

DON'T TAKE ME WRONG---------NICE RACK DUDE

by **MadDog77vega** » Sun May 06, 2007 7:47 pm

ColinOpseth wrote:You can run a Milodon if your block has a 1 piece rear seal. The V8 Monza pan will fit. Or, you can sledgehammer it a bit for clearance but I'd be nervous of doing that!!

My motor is in the car now. I test-fit the k-member and the stock LT1 pan clears but I haven't checked the centerlink yet -crossing fingers-

Hi Colin
do i understand this correct, that a v-8 monza pan from a 2-piece seal block WILL fit a 1-piece seal block ? i have been trying to find that info. as i may just get a GM zz-4 short block and put my top end stuff on it. to speed up the process a little.

Yeah nice rack fasterthansome ... LOL

thnx

by **ColinOpseth** » Mon May 07, 2007 1:12 am

MadDog..
You can't use a 2 piece pan on a 1 piece block. What you can do is weld the 1 piece pan rail on a 2 piece pan. It can be done.

I know you can retrofit a 2 piece block to have a 1 piece rear seal but not a 1 piece block back to a 2 piece rear seal.

Later,
Colin

by **MadDog77vega** » Mon May 07, 2007 6:24 am

ok thnx Colin
i talked with my brother last night and he has an extra 2 piece rear
4 bolt main block he can sell me. so i'll go that route and build a lower end.

thnx again

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