Pertronics No Start - '73 GT V8

[ol55]

Trying to start after 3 years or so. The previous owner installed a mechanical tach with a Corvette distributor. He also installed Pertronics ignition. He used a Summit toggle switch and start button. The engine turns over nicely but no spark. The coil has 12V (positive side) without pushing the button and @3 V less when cranking. Cap, rotor and Pertronics all appear new. Switched out coil with two used ones of unknow origin with still no spark from coil or plug wire. Any clues?

Thanks,
Larry

[Smiley]

with the power off check the gap between the ignitor module and the magnetic sleeve on the distributor shaft, it should be .030".

Do you have a wire from the distributor housing to ground ?
if so loosen the distributor so you can move it by hand with the ignition power on instead of cranking it over.
check for spark at the distributor end of the coil wire while rotating the distributor housing.

If engine will not start or runs rough, remove the red Ignitor wire from the coil positive terminal.
Connect a jumper wire from the positive side of the battery directly to the red Ignitor wire.
If the engine starts and runs well, you may have a low voltage problem.
Remember this is just a test and not intended for permanent installation.
To correct a low voltage problem if you have an external ballast resistor, connect the red Ignitor wire to the ignition wire
prior to the ballast resistor.
If you do not have a ballast resistor you must locate a 12 volt source that is controlled by the ignition switch to connect the red Ignitor wire to.
If you leave the ignition switch on when the engine is not running it can cause your coil to overheat,
which may cause permanent damage to the coil and the Ignitor.

[cammerjeff]

Smiley Pretty much covered it, the modules they use seem to be delicate, as he said if the ignition is left on for a period of time without the engine running it tends to fry the Module pretty quickly, I have had to rescue 2 friends with bad modules over the last few years. I never had an issue with mine, but I now Run HEI or Points on all my Cars.
And as he stated the system does require a full 12 Volts to run properly, the 8 to 9 Volts that a Points system uses just will not work.

Good Luck and tell us what you find please.

[ol55]

so far:
Pertronics recommend a coil resistance greater than 1.5. The coil that was in the car was a Mallory with.7 and labeled not recommended for high energy. The other two stock looking coils are 1.5 and 2.1 and should be ok.

The "ignitor" is the lowest product in the line up but should work.


The gap seemed way wide so I adjusted the plate in as much as it would go. Pic is before adjustment. Looks like there is no "magnetic sleeve" on the distributor but not sure.


How do I take off the counterweights and cap to get the view that Smiley posted?


Thanks,
Larry

[Smiley]

on a GM distributor the black ring under the weights is the magnetic part it is visable in your bottom picture.



the gap is measured top to bottom .010" to .060" range checked the whole rotation of the rotor.

here is a good video on a full install
http://youtu.be/O3emUqUM7oU

[ol55]

Good Video!

Was told today that the notch in the side of the magnetic sleeve needs to be on the side of the hole for rotor. Opposite of pics below. Do I need to move the sleeve 180 degrees? Also can I shim the small sleeve screws instead of removing the gear?





Thanks, Larry

[Smiley]

on a GM they say to bend the bracket to close the gap at the sensor ring
you mean they want you to rotate the ring 180 degrees under the rotor ?

[ol55]

Thanks Smiley.

Yes,he said to rotate the ring 180. Went back and looked at the video close, it looks like the small notch is lined up with the square rotor hole.

On their troubleshooting page, they want the coil resistance to be at least 1.5 but their recommended coil resistance is .7. ???

Larry

[Smiley]

is the distributor out of the engine ?

[ol55]

yes, it's out.

some up and down play in the shaft. Measure all the way up, down or ???

[Smiley]

Both you dont want it to rub or have more than .060" gap

If the module is dead.
You can get a complete HEI for the price of a new Pertronix module.
for a few bucks more you can get a new tach drive HEI
sell the Vette distributor to someone restoring an old Vette you mightbreak even and you car will run.

[ol55]

No go today. May call pertronics to determine if module is dead based on resistance reading.

[Smiley]

Whole HEI with tach drive, cap rotor and coil.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-SBC-350-BBC-454-65K-Coil-HEI-Electronic-Distributor-w-Tach-Drive-Red-Cap-/181341260075?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a38c8092b&vxp=mtr

$56.99 shipped

[T-FATTY]

Another vote for what smiley said. It has play in it besides electrical problems, why bother. You cant polish a turd...

[ol55]

Do the HEI's with the coil on top drop right in?

Thanks,
Larry