Do Vegas with p/s still need sbc oil pan modified ?

[robert123]

Hi, got a stock 73 Vega hatch with factory power steering box -- will be running a stock sbc (maybe alum heads later); no a/c; battery relocated.

I've heard that the power steering center drag link is approx. 1/2 lower than the manual center drag link.

So is it necessary to modify the sbc oil pan for clearance -- or would there be enough clearance?
(I can monitor for any contact between center link and bottom of oil the pan.)

Thanks a lot

[spencerforhire]

As with most motor swap questions, the answer is "it depends". If you're using OEM V8 Monza mounts, you will need either an oil pan from the same donor OR modify a generic pan, whether or not you have P/S. if you have aftermarket front mounts, SOME position the motor high enough to clear a normal pan, but may have issues with pump mounting.

[robert123]

As with most motor swap questions, the answer is "it depends". If you're using OEM V8 Monza mounts, you will need either an oil pan from the same donor OR modify a generic pan, whether or not you have P/S. if you have aftermarket front mounts, SOME position the motor high enough to clear a normal pan, but may have issues with pump mounting.

Thanks for the answer.

Here's some more information. I forgot to mention will be using Don Hardy V8 side engine mounts. I checked the center link and it is about 1/2 to 5/8 inch above the center, square-nut, that takes the approx. 3/8 bolt... in the middle of the cross member (where the K- member joins the cross member).

At full lock right or left....... the center link is about 2 millimeter (1/16) of an inch above the front upper lip of the cross member.

[cosvega76]

I have power steering and the P/S centerlink on my Vega. I only gained about 1/8" of clearance for the bottom of the Milodon pan. Don't forget you'll need inner tie rod end clearance, as well.


Chuck

[robert123]

I have power steering and the P/S centerlink on my Vega. I only gained about 1/8" of clearance for the bottom of the Milodon pan. Don't forget you'll need inner tie rod end clearance, as well.


Chuck

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP GUYS.

[nutt]

I guess I just got lucky with my oil pan. Not sure what it's out of, it has the drain plug in the front of the sump and is a two step pan, similar to a chevelle pan. I used the Monza cradles and mounted those in the correct location but I slid the motor back approx. an inch and lifted the passenger side up a 1/4". I slid an hei large cap distributor in there and the cap clears the firewall by 1/8". The inner tie rods have the zircs towards the inside and they clear by the same 1/8". The sump as it transitions downward, clears the crossmember by approx. 1/4". I am using the torque arm rear and it has adjustment for taking up the difference ( 1 inch). Also, the driveline had enough slop in the yoke to accommodate and still have an inch of slide. The added inch really made the Sanderson headers fit much better and I have a little wiggle room for an actual cooling fan with the short water pump. Life is good!