RADIATOR FITMENT OPTIONS

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RADIATOR FITMENT OPTIONS

Postby crawfw » Tue Oct 14, 2014 8:10 am

I have removed an aftermarket aluminum radiator and found multiple pin holes. The sizes are, Core 18 7/8”w X 18/ 7/8”h X 2 ¼”thickness
Overall 24”w X 19”h X 3 ¼”thick tank. Not including filler neck
I was wondering if I could use a double pass radiator with similar dimensions with stock water pump and pully. I read on a triple pass its recommended using a different pully and high flow water pump for adequate feed. Just wondering if this holds true for a double pass?
I already have a 360*rotatable thermostat housing. It looks as though I will have plenty of room to run a hose over the alternator on a non AC V8 setup.
I can’t see paying for a griffin with the needed radiator inlet bend. I can get an aftermarket double pass from jegs for well under $300.00. I thought about a stock v8 radiator for an hbody but am concerned with cooling capabilities for my mild built 355. And I’m also concerned about the mods that have already been done to the car to accommodate my current radiator. I don’t have the upper rad support/shroud.
The pinholes I assumed were from bad welds at the top half of the radiator but talking to some people it could be from electrolysis? Any opinions on that? All the pinholes were on the upper 10 tubes front and back side of the radiator. And both passenger and drivers side. It makes sense as I have a slow battery drain. I have a battery disconnect and use it when the car is Idle. I plan on a good ground strap from block to frame before its back up and running.
Thanks,
Bill
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1979 Pontiac Sunbird Formula


Re: RADIATOR FITMENT OPTIONS

Postby Monza Harry » Tue Oct 14, 2014 8:40 pm

I watched PowerBlock this weekend and they showed how to check this out put one probe in the water/coolant and the other on the rad 1.3 and less is ok anything over 3 is trouble. This is caused by the chemicals in the coolant and the dissimilar metals in the cooling system (makes a battery yes for real). There is an "Anode" available to be the sacrificial lamb so to speak I believe most cooling system parts suppliers offer them, here's Flex a Lite's on AutoZone's site http://www.autozone.com/autozone/access ... e/_/N-26n2
Anode.jpg
As to the water pump speed I would check with the Rad Manufacturer they will give you the best info.Harry
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I'm not a hoarder I'm a preservationist 78 Monza Spyder (~Soon(ish +/- I guess) To Be 2+2 with Spoilers)
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Re: RADIATOR FITMENT OPTIONS

Postby crawfw » Wed Oct 15, 2014 10:43 am

Hey Harry, thanks a bunch for the info. Couple questions. 1. I assume we are checking voltage when you talk about the 1.3 and 3.0 readings. 2. Where would the anode thread into? Can it be any where in the system or does it have to be in the radiator?

Thanks again
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1979 Pontiac Sunbird Formula

Re: RADIATOR FITMENT OPTIONS

Postby Monza Harry » Sun Nov 09, 2014 11:51 pm

Sorry crawfw, yes voltage is what they were doing (on the "Horsepower/Engine Power" show) for the test and I thought I included this link, the Flex-a-Lite site product description says to use the drain cock fitting in the rad. The TV show has all sorts of useless S :censored: T but not that kind of great stuff :? .Harry https://www.flex-a-lite.com/radiator-anode.html
I'm not a hoarder I'm a preservationist 78 Monza Spyder (~Soon(ish +/- I guess) To Be 2+2 with Spoilers)
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