Head not lining up..

[dindin]

Ok so I finally got a chance to install cylinder head on my Cosworth and the head is not lining up with the the locating pins on the block correctly, Im using studs and if I remove the studs the head goes on easily, when I try and install the head with the studs in place its off about a 1/32", Im thinking either I file the pins a little or ream the holes in the head a little, or just remove the pins and install the head without them..

Any advice ??

Al

[Kenova]

Have you tried installing the studs after you put the head on?

Ken

[dindin]

Yes I tried to put head on first, The studs go in tight and cocks the head enough that it wont sit properly on the gasket... I also tried the factory head bolts and same thnig goes in tight, I think the guy who fixed some corroision issues on my head redrilled the holes slightly off.

Al

[cjbiagi]

I would not mess with the locating pins, they are probably doing their job correctly. I would ream the holes for the bolts before touching the pins.

[dindin]

Good idea Clyde, whats kinda strange is just the side that the locator pins are on have an issue with the the studs rubbing, maybe just take 1/16 off about an inch up should give me the play i need

Thanks Al

[hammerdown7]

The holes were re-drilled in the head? I agree with Clyde, ream the bolt holes, don't modify the locater pins. There is a small hole in the head gasket to restrict oil flow. If you move the head you are going to further reduce the pressurized oil flow. Also the Cosworth has some difficulty with oil draining back into the crankcase at higher rpms, moving the head will also restrict the size of the drain-back holes.

Dick

[Monza Harry]

I am not trying to step on anyone's toes but I would flip the head over on the bench and find out which set is off, line up the gasket and see why the previous repair is causing you grief. Dick is pointing out some things I have never touched and know nothing about, and I would definitely trust him, but you stated that "a previous corrosion repair" was done, so I would bet that there in lies the problem not the stud locations as I would think that head has been on before and didn't need the holes opened up or they would have been that way already, concentrate on what has been changed and make that right. I figure this will be a chore at best as those dowel holes must have been moved during repair and that will affect that drain-back situation described by Dick (Hammerdown 7). Just a little bit of my experience, I hope this helps! Harry P.S. Dick can you post the size of that drain-back hole and maybe an old pic, to give him an idea what an unmolested head looks like?

[Monza Harry]

I am not trying to step on anyone's toes but I would flip the head over on the bench and find out which set is off, line up the gasket and see why the previous repair is causing you grief. Dick is pointing out some things I have never touched and know nothing about, and I would definitely trust him, but you stated that "a previous corrosion repair" was done, so I would bet that there in lies the problem not the stud locations as I would think that head has been on before and didn't need the holes opened up or they would have been that way already, concentrate on what has been changed and make that right. I figure this will be a chore at best as those dowel holes must have been moved during repair and that will affect that drain-back situation described by Dick (hammerdown 7). Just a little bit of my experience, I hope this helps! Harry P.S. Dick can you post the size of that drain-back hole and maybe an old pic, to give him an idea what an unmolested head looks like?

[dindin]

Well it seems the the arp studs are thicker than the stock head bolts and causing the head to shift to the side, I tried the factory head bolts again and they are tight because of dirty threads.

I though maybe the place that resurfaced the head drilled new line up holes, but thats not the case.

The studs measure 7/16 and the stock bolts are 3/8 diameter..I am thinking to try and find some new head bolts rather than open up the all holes which would require a machine shop.

Thanks Guys

Al

[hammerdown7]

Maybe you have the wrong studs, both of my engines have ARP studs, for the head and the mains.

Dick

[dindin]

yes the studs are correct..my head must be off a little and the bolt is a little bigger so its causing me problems, if i put the factory bolts in I would never have noticed, I need to find some new bolts and forget the stud idea.

Al

[dindin]

Well I got some slimmer shank studs from ARP and during head torque down I pulled a thread..decided to just redo all the threads rather than risk another bad night..new bolts $135.00 Timesert thread kit $432.00 old bolts that did not work ( and I cannot return cause I threw away the bag with lot number on it) $130.00..Time spent too much..

Al