2.3 pistons

[cliffsgt]

I'm running a standard bore 2.3 Vega motor and would like to up the compression to around 9:1 or 9.5:1 - would anyone know of a source that I could get pistons to achieve this? This is a non-sleeved motor but I figure I'll probably end up sleeveing it with the new pistons.
I'm running a mild aftermarket cam with a single Weber 45 sidedraft carb. & headers with an MSD unit on an electronic ignition.
Runs OK now but once you come off the "Line" the motor seems to go "flat" - doesn't really continue to pull harder as RPMs increase.
I figure a little extra compression might fix it.
I've read where people have successfully used Buick V6 pistons but none have really said what their compression was nor did they say which Buick V6 motor.
Being realistic, I'm not looking to make a bunch of power - just want it to run strong, say around 130-140HP (hopefully).

Also: Has anyone on this Forum ever "run" a similar set-up on a Vega motor.
I figured one Weber 45 would do nicely and it has made the motor a lot more driveable. The only real problem I've been having is the carb seems to have a "catch" in it when you back-off, like if you come to a Stop Sign it takes it around 30-45 seconds before it'll come back down to idle. But it doesn't do it when the motors cold, only after it has warmed up. I apologize if this isn't the proper place for asking about working on a Weber 45 - since it didn't come from the factory with it, but I thought someone might be as crazy as I and stuck one on a Vega motor.
Any advice/info would be appreciated.

Thanks,
CJ

[Smiley]

You can have the head milled to raise the compression.
Unsleeved Vega bores require tin plated pistons which limits your off the shelf piston choices.

[kgroombr]

Finding high compression pistons for the 140 will be quite difficult unless you have them custom made. I saw a post in an old Vega book where they modified the combustion chamber by adding material to it. Something called a quench head. To me, that would be the way to go.

Ken

[hammerdown7]

Here's a page on tuning Webers. You will have to do some interpolating since it discusses twin Weber set-ups but it should help some. http://cnx.org/contents/a0a6da11-6437-4 ... _of_Weber_

Dick

[kgroombr]

You can have the head milled to raise the compression.
Unsleeved Vega bores require tin plated pistons which limits your off the shelf piston choices.

Also, if you do this, you will have to get an adjustable timing gear as this will change the relationship between the camshaft and crankshaft unless it is milled to point where the timing belt teeth still line up in the correct location.

Ken

[cliffsgt]

Hey guys - thanks for all the info!
Yeah, I guess decking the head would probably be the way to go, be alot less money. Which brings to mind how much can be taken off the head?

I think there is one machine shop in town that still has a "cam tool" for working on the head, maybe I can get him to work the head and clean it up so it'll flow better also. It's never really been "worked" for performance and it probably needs valve stem seals also.
Would really like to get the block sleeved cause the motor has a bit of "blow-by" coming out of the valve cover - that is, out of the hole that's suppose to go back into the carb/intake somewhere, not around where my PCV valve is at. Wouldn't want to push all that oily blow-by back into the carb or intake. Are "sleeves" still available for the 2.3?

Getting the cam to align back-up with the crank after "decking" it will be a trick but I think I can drill out the cam sprocket and use one of those "off-set" bushing to accomplish it. Any advice on doing this "drilling the cam sprocket out"?

I've been doing alot of reading on this forum cause this is a really a great resource and I've found the info on here to be very valid, anyway, I read where one fellow that raced the 2.3 motors noticed that sometimes the factory timing marks on the crank can be off by 2 degrees in either direction from the factory marks - has anyone else experienced the same?
I'll need to really pay close attention the next time I tear the little motor down and re-assemble it.
Yeah know, that could be alot of my problem of the motor going kinda "flat" after leaving the line. Imagine being able to just spin the rear tire like mad and then it never really feeling like it pulls any harder/stronger as the RPMs build. Oh, I've got "traction bars" on it so as to stop that crazy wheel hoping action when you come off the line hard.

Quenching the Head: Adding material to the combustion chamber to create a better "quench" area in the head sounds great, but not sure if I can find anybody to do that kind of work - sounds like a costly thing on a Vega head. I guess I'm just real un-familiar with the process.

Wow - great info on tuning the Weber side draft. I guess since the carb is so versatile I get over whelmed by all the decisions one has to make while tuning it. More reading and studying of the carb is in order.
Just feels like something is hanging in it - I actually feel a "tic" when manually opening and closing the butterfly's without the throttle cable hooked-up. Seems like something is making the butterfly's in the carb to slowly close.
Several "Rules of Thumb" to observe when tuning the Weber and I've tried to keep all those in mind when I've worked on tuning it out. I've got a wide band O2 sensor hooked up on it so I know I'm not running too lean or too rich. There's only one shop in town that I'd trust with it and I'd hate to take it to the shop cause they've quoted me like $500 to $600 to tune it out - now this is just one carb mind you, their price seems awfully high but it is a good shop run by a man named Lee Hurly that's well known around my neck of the woods. I'm in Birmingham Alabama if anybody was wondering.

I appreciate all the time everyone has put into answering my questions - this is really a great forum!

Thanks,
Cliff