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Thanks Spencer, I like detail. A look at any of the pages in this thread will will remove any suspicion of purism in me.

Plus, it looks better than this>

zeke wrote:

spencerforhire wrote:If you can get those Sandersons to fit without the use of a BFH or the "blue tipped hot wrench", I will sell my Hooker 2135's in a flash.

No hammer, no torch - check!

Making new engine mounts also so I will be able to set the height to whatever works. Hopefully won't need to modify the air cleaner - again.

Thanx 6D9

Your welcome!!

New louvers installed. Some slight trimming, sharp tin snips work good. Think I may tint the glass later.

I've got enough refurbished painted stuff on the car already so it's actually nice to see some brand new virgin plastic.

Picked up my brand new windshield last weekend. It fit in the back seat of my Buick no problem. Just had to sit it upside down so would clear the armrests. Came with a mile of bubble wrap on it and a huge cardboard box.

Parts gathering for 5 bolt conversion continues. Found a nice left sill plate and set of valve covers for cheap.

Temporary exhaust for engine break in, don't want to kill the new Sandersons.

Sounds like it's missing, feels like the valves are tight, one injector is leaking, alternator isn't charging, gas gauge isn't working BUT IT RUNS! lol

Cooling fans even switched on and do they ever move air!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PvlniypAt7k&feature=youtu.be

About time you slacker!!

I'll geterdun! (eventually) Thanx man

One thing leads to another...

Found out why the engine was running so bad after I stuck the timing light on it. Like minus 30 degrees with computer advance disconnected. Couldn't quite get it to zero because of the way I plumbed the pressure switch. Off to the depot for a 1/4" brass 45 degree street elbow. They only have 90's, ok np except now the plug won't reach. aaarrrggghh lol

I've soldered and shrink tubed so many connections on this car, three more is nothing. It is done and it idles nicely now altho my temporary exhaust is leaky/noisy.

Fuel gauge was just a bad connection. Alternator was charging but LED indicators wouldn't go out fully. Common problem it seems with no solution readily available so I designed one. The LEDS will light with much less voltage than a incandescent bulb.

When the ignition is turned on, power flows thru the 1N4007 diode and the 330 ohm resistor to the L terminal to excite the alternator.

When the engine is started and the alternator starts to charge, 12 volts is sent back out the L wire to the non inverting input of the op amp used as a voltage comparator. This exceeds the threshold set by the voltage divider on the the inverting input and comparator turns LED driving transistor off.

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2XaT-7SMhpQ&feature=youtu.be

dark view

In between the direction indicators, there is an unused blue lens from factory. When I made the light boxes, wasn't sure what to do with it so I added a LED for it and wired it to the high beam circuit. Plan is to change the "BRIGHT" indicator on the upper left to an "OIL" indicator. Would also like to replace the engine icon with a yellow "ENGINE" text someday.

Seriously. Make me one of these!

RedFiveKBS wrote:Seriously. Make me one of these!

Along with your cluster bezel and choice of gauges, send:

zeke wrote:dark view In between the direction indicators, there is an unused blue lens from factory.

That is funny Zeke on my '76 that was the high beam indicator. I'll have to check out the '78 if and when I get it back [I sent it out for work with explicit instructions that I need it back to make it ready(ish) for the MonzaQue, one week left and I just got a part back yesterday to send out for repair ] I just don't understand the factory's thinking on these matters, changing things just to make changes, unless there was some unknown legislation on this(?) Making it your own with a definite factory flair there Chris Harry