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zeke wrote:

RedFiveKBS wrote:Seriously. Make me one of these!

Along with your cluster bezel and choice of gauges, send:

I don't have any extra hands laying around, dammit.

Monza Harry wrote:That is funny Zeke on my '76 that was the high beam indicator. I'll have to check out the '78, I just don't understand the factory's thinking on these matters, changing things just to make changes, unless there was some unknown legislation on this(?)

I'd like to know what's going on with the high indicator myself, I'll make a poll on FB. Could be the difference between American(mine) and Canadian version.

Monza Harry wrote:Making it your own with a definite factory flair there Chris Harry

Thanx Harry cya in a week

RedFiveKBS wrote:I don't have any extra hands laying around, dammit.

Joking aside, I probably have 30 - 40 hours into that custom cluster never mind the rest of the dash. Altho, the second one would be quicker for sure. You're a talented guy, I think you could do it! Yeah!

Video

Thanx gerbs!

Monza now has lock, unlock, hatch release and remote start with worldwide range from my phone. Also has GPS, will send alerts if car moves and location maps. I do like some bells and whistles.

Video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRByVwg0KTw

Lots of room without the column, first time I've had it out. Grabbed a new ignition switch and the Jeep steering coupler kit to stick in while it's out. New engine mounts and headers next.

Rebuilt steering shaft

Press the cross pin right out to make the job easy. Careful blasting around the rag joint. The Jeep boot kit doesn't come with a new clamp.

Boot kit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cwa-8132676k

Pinch clamp: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-12281

#Rebuild #Steering #Shaft #Rubber #Boot #Monza

Purdy!! Looking forward to getting home Friday and into the garage on Saturday.

Thanx Kevin, soon the nightmare starts. Making new engine mounts first tho.

I found some mounts I had saved from another car and they are like new.

Modified the frame mount plates so engine can adjust laterally in the bay. Also elongated the two holes in the trans crossmember so rear of trans could be positioned.

#Monza #Frame #Plate #Mod #Headers

I think number six needs a small ding unfortunately. Would have been a huge ding without the frame plate mod. Test fit refurbished column and steering shaft next...

Stock V8 Monza oil pan dipstick tube will not work with Sanderson headers. The oil pan port points directly at the collector because the OE tube runs towards the front and bolts on to left side of #3 cyl.

Made a new one with some 3/8" steel tubing and a piece of sheet metal to make the bolt tab.

Need to calibrate it yet

Big mistake painting brake lines, any leak of fluid and it looks like crap. Several applications of paint stripper and a few hours scrubbing fixed the problem. Look not bad considering they're 38 years old.

Clamp to hold clutch cable away from collector needed. There was already a couple holes there so ran a 5/16 -18 tap thru the larger one.

Next I will touch up the unibody painted areas. Ordered a dual diaphragm 7" booster to replace the ugly painted 38 year old piece and gain some clearance to the valve covers.

Inner fender area repainted.

I can confirm now that Sanderson headers do not fit between the unibody structure. Unless you raise the engine, #6 tube will need a ding on cc13ap or #4 tube on cc13. I did not have room to raise the engine as I only have a 1/4 inch from top of breather to hood structure. I've talked to Sanderson about it and they are forwarding my pics and info to their design department. Hopefully they will fix the issue for future buyers. Without the frame plate mods above ^ it would be a really large ding.

I placed the header on a blanket on the grass lawn to avoid damaging the header anywhere else. I used a 38mm impact socket (largest I have) and worked the ding in from side to side gradually making it wide enough. It takes a fair bit of beating but none of the ceramic coating chipped off. I'm thinking the impact socket having a different hardness than the ceramic helped. Buffed up the ding lightly with a 3M pad and it looks not too bad.

Sequence:

Permatex Ultra Black applied, let harden for 24 hours.

Slide engine all the way to the right and insert drivers side header. Start #1 cylinder rear bolt before flange seats on heads - very tight.

slide engine back all the way left and insert passenger header.

Install steering shaft and check for interference, position engine as necessary.

More details after I torque them in place later.