1972 Vega Pro Touring Project

[80poncho]

main hoop? thats whats above, or are you talking about the halo bar??, the one that connects to the main hoop and goes up by the windshield, then the 2 downward front windhield bars attach to that? I have alot more pics I just have to put them all in order to post, let me know which ones you want to see better.

The halo bar is the one in the picture that looks like a "u" under the main hoop, the 2 downward windshiel bars are right underneath of it.

Yes, the halo bar is what I meant, was still sleepy when I wrote mine, I have my main hoop in place, but the halo bar above I don't like...

[spyder_xlch]

A twin turbo BBC is it?

[NixVegaGT]

Pretty car, Don. Great documentation on the rear frame. I love the solution. I think it will work really well.

I was thinking of doing the same thing to the front bumper. I've got a 73 so the stock bumper hangs way out there. It looks good with that older style mount.

Thanks for a comprehensive post, man.

[megavega]

Hey Nick, thanx for the kind words, your car domain site is what I am trying to duplicate here, you have done a great job thru the process. I have looked thru all your steps and your gonna have a sweet ride when done.
I think I may have a extra set of the shorter 71-72 bumper brackets if you need a set. You can always section the brackets also, I have done that before on a 73 to bring the bumper in tight to the fenders.

[rustorbust]

Hey Megavega, I am real interested in your build. I have a 73 vega that is almost a clone to your car. Small block, th350, stock suspension that runs mid 6's in the 1/8. The rear sub frame that your have pictures of and are describing is extremely interesting to me and I would really like to do the same. Right now my car just has an 8 point cage in it with no subframe connectors. I was racing the car for a while without the cage and I couldnt really tell how much flex was going on cause I had nothing to base it off of. But once i got the cage put in it WHAT A DIFFERENCE. Do you have any pictures of the rear subframe in the car with the control arms and rearend bolted in place. I am kinda confused about how you are tieing the lower control arms into the new subframe. Great documenting on it so far though, I will deffinently be paying attention to this one.

[megavega]

After the subframe is installed you simply drill thru the new 3x3 box tubing using your origianl lower control arm holes as your guide. I just used a transfer punch to find the exact center of the hole and drilled a pilot hole with a small bit, then drilled it out to the factory hole. Your rear lower control arms will bolt right back in, same spot as before, but now inside of the new 3x3 rear half of the frame. You may need to just barely skim the surface of the metal sleeve with a grinder in the bushing to slip it in as you made the slot width slightly smaller with the addition of the box tubing.

If you already have a 8 point cage by adding this rear subframe and then run 2 diagnal 1 5/8" diameter tubing bars from the front side of this up into your existing cage will make the car as solid as a rock! You would have to drill a hole in each side of the floor and tie the tubes from the front face of the 2x3 crossmember to the main hoop mounting points, they would be inside kinda flat to the rear floor(small upward angle).
The rear frame is a solution to the control arms ripping out of the thin sheetmetal mounts, the left rear is usually the one to go first, then with the addition of the 2x3 dropped crossmember it ties it all in from left to right and pulls on the beefiest part of the undercarriage(where you make the 2 inch notch).

[rustorbust]

Alright I get it now, I just had to hear it the second time. I actually already have tubular control arms with solid heim joints and solid bushing so Ill just have to make new spacers but this is going to be a for sure thing I will be doing here in the near future. I know Im asking alot but do you by chance have the measurements for the crossmember? Thanks

[megavega]

Rustorbust, No it wouldnt be a problem, I dont have them written, but it wouldnt be very hard to make a sheet for you with specs for frame.


Heres what the rear hoop bars look like, they clear the rear seat and give plenty of head room for rear passengers. Also being offset to the side slightly will not obstruct the view in the rear view mirror. From standing along side the car you cant tell it has a cage because the rear bars really seem to go away with the body lines of the rear window.

[greg72]

Don , that is some nice work! I am interested in doing something similar to my Mirage. I like that you were able to add strength and rigidity to the unibody without being obtrusive. It looks almost stock.....and I mean that in a good way.

[NixVegaGT]

Don,
What are your plans for the exhaust? Exit before the frame rail maybe?

[megavega]

Thanx guys for the compliments.


On the exhaust, I am not quite sure how loud it is after going thru the turbo, was wondering if I would even need mufflers or just dump it down behind the front wheels and maybe into a pancake muffler or straight pipe??? anyone have any expieriance with them, a twin turbo v8?

[NixVegaGT]

I ran a straight pipe on my turbo for about a year. It was about 4 ft long though. The turbo did a lot to minimize the sound.

[gerbsinmd]

I thought the Syclone's that GM produced years ago didn't have a muffler. Maybe that was just a rumor, but if not, it must do a great job of minimizing the sound.

[ColinOpseth]

STS doesn't use a muffler on their turbo systems.

[rustorbust]

hey megavega were you able to get any dimensions?