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by **1100kaw** » Wed Mar 27, 2013 5:57 pm

That Schwartz quote sounds familar.
Honestly, thats one of the cars i pull a lot of my ideas from.
Done my way, with a little twist.
I think we do a little of that.

by **spencerforhire** » Wed Mar 27, 2013 9:19 pm

A few notes about what type of tape to wrap the buck with; whatever you use, the uncured resin as well as the heat created when it kicks off will eat into the adhesive that's on the tape. If the tape is stretchy like electrical tape, it will unravel when the glue lets go. Masking tape is ok because it's not stretchy(and it's cheap!), but the best stuff is the REAL duct tape; the foil stuff with the paper backing that's used to seal HVAC ducting. The surface is smoother than masking tape so it will release from the 'glass easier.

by **1100kaw** » Thu Mar 28, 2013 5:41 pm

Oooooo. I got some of that Kentucky Chrome tape.LOL
Thats what i'll try. I kept thinking no matter what i used, it prob would get comprimized to some extent. That foil tape should hold up well.
Thanks Spencer

by **1100kaw** » Sat Mar 30, 2013 11:13 pm

Think I have my Fuel system fugured out. I managed to squeeze F-body pump into tank. Used original snding unit plate and made all new lines. Use the original vent plate and put aftermarket sender in that spot with a vent tube.
Still gotta flare the pressure lines. I will be running external Vette style filter/regulator.
Feed back needed. Look OK?

by **HAULIN' IT** » Sun Mar 31, 2013 11:23 am

Darrell, I'm not sure I would have the return tube going into your can. No personal knowledge, but I've seen guys mentioning keeping it away from the pump inlet some to not aerate the fuel...maybe a 45* turn at the end going to the side? Great build, by the way! Lorne

by **TimMcCabe** » Tue Apr 02, 2013 12:52 pm

That is almost identical to what I used in Kermit for years. I soldered my tray together using a sheet of tin formed around a small propane tank (it was the perfect diameter to fit in the hole). You solution is a lot better then mine though.. I never thought of using an oblong tin can DOH..
You will need to put a small hole and baffle in your fuel tray to allow fuel to find it's way in when the tank is low on fuel. It only needs to be about .25" or so. I made mine so I could adjust the height to make sure the tray sits right on the bottom.

Cheers,
Tim

by **1100kaw** » Tue Apr 02, 2013 7:27 pm

Thanks
Tim& Lorne for the input. I had thought about the return line, I may just kick it out a little like you recomended. cant hurt.
I was wandering about a weep hole.
.025 eh. Is there a formula that get you that number? Rule of thumb? I guess as long as it can weep in the tray and it dont run out super fast. Thats the ticket.
Is the main idea of tray to keep pump loaded at all times and keep pump submerged and cooler?
If cooling is a big issue, the can should be 4 or 5 in. deep, with weep holes. Even with deep tray that deep, on a 6" deep tank. at about 1/2 way pump prob cant stay submerged. Am i right?

by **TimMcCabe** » Tue Apr 02, 2013 8:34 pm

The pump is cooled by the fuel passing through it, it does not need to be fully submerged all the time. I have my fuel return line dumping the fuel back into the tray to keep it full all the time. The tray just keeps fuel at the pick up during cornering or braking, so the hole does not have to be very big to let the fuel in. If it is too big, the fuel can escape too quickly, 1/4" or 5/16" should be more then enough.

Cheers,
Tim

by **vegastre** » Sat Aug 24, 2013 1:04 am

Darrell,
Pump on a stick ehhh... :lol:

So did you go with the Airtex pump we were discussing in the other thread? I know the pump investigation was a real sore point with you and glad you have it figured out. I may copy it. Speaking of copy cats, if and when I do frame connectors I am going to copy your design.

by **1100kaw2** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 8:55 pm

Been a while.... This project is still on going. I have gotten quite a bit done. Actually starting to look like a car again, instead of a bunch of parts.
The car is turn key. driveway, drives. Still need to have exhaust installed.
All bodywork , mods finished. Stripped the remaining body panels. Roof, quarters, tail panels ,etc.
Shaved rear marker lights, and all emblem holes.
All pieces prepped, and Jammed. At this point she is in final assembly mode.
The car will be all together, and panel aligned, etc... Then final detail and exterior paint.
Prob do a little de bugging and tuning before paint as well.

Started interior re-install. Cleaning, re-storing as ness.
Adding stereo goodies a long the way.
Thanks for looking. As always. Input welcome.
Darrell

by **1100kaw2** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 8:59 pm

More pics

by **1100kaw2** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 8:59 pm

More pics

by **1100kaw2** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 9:04 pm

More again

by **1100kaw2** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 9:10 pm

yep. more.
Not pictured.
Installed back glass this wknd.
Gotta make new interior panels for tail light area.
Install insulation/carpet. then front seats. Door panels last. leaving them off till paint work done. have to put door handles/ lock cyl. and mirrors on.

by **T-FATTY** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 9:11 pm

Whats that bar in the bumper position?

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