Vegabee(framing)

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Re: Vegabee(framing)

Postby zeke » Tue May 03, 2016 10:36 pm

Great to see the detailed pics as I have yet to do my exhaust. :th:
Chris

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zeke's 78 Sport Coupe

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Re: Vegabee(framing)

Postby Vegabee » Mon May 09, 2016 1:14 pm

Cool..Here is more on connecting the muffs.Cut some of the 45 deg bends from the rest of the Jegs Malibu kit to come around the gas tank
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time consuming if not tedious work back here but bound and determined
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all tacked in place
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Re: Vegabee(framing)

Postby Monza Harry » Wed May 11, 2016 12:03 am

That's turning out real nice! It is nice to see some quality builds going on. Harry
I'm not a hoarder I'm a preservationist 78 Monza Spyder (~Soon(ish +/- I guess) To Be 2+2 with Spoilers)
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Re: Vegabee(framing)

Postby Vegabee » Sun May 15, 2016 11:25 pm

Had a drive shaft made this week from here http://www.machineservice.com/ have to drop the exhaust a bit to get it in will try it soon.the procedure they wanted is to push the yoke all the way into the trans and pull out an inch and measure center to center of joints.they supplied the 1350 at the rear and matching th350 yoke with a 1350 for the front.U-bolt hardware also.
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Re: Vegabee(framing)

Postby Smiley » Mon May 16, 2016 9:57 pm

Did you tell them you are using a Ford rear end ?
I took out the driveshaft of My Vega when I first got it and it had this problem.
Ford used thicker U-joint caps at the pinion yoke.
So going from GM to Ford requires a conversion U-joint with 1310's at least.
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Re: Vegabee(framing)

Postby Vegabee » Tue May 17, 2016 5:35 am

I see what your saying,here's some u joint IDs http://driveshaftspecialist.com/HTML%20 ... Guide.html
When ordered center section from Randy's Ring and Pinion specified a 1350 pinion yoke which measures 1 3/16 at the caps.The drive shaft mfg. used a 1350 trans yoke to match,should be good thanks.
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Re: Vegabee(framing)

Postby Vegabee » Mon Jul 25, 2016 12:39 pm

Put in some of the steering parts this weekend started with centering the rack to get the steering wheel centered.Both stop bolts installed measured 2 7/8 at both sides
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Cut some large paint sticks at that size and installed on both sides
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locked rack at center
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Had to pull the exhaust manifold back off and got the shaft on with the steering wheel centered but got tougher to tighten a 3/4 lock nut on the heim joint.Had to grind open a couple of crow feet to 1 1/8 to work the nut tight from top and bottom
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both shafts tight to the heim joint drilled a 1/4 hole and put in a hardened bolt
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heat shield fits but rubs on the bottom so needs forming there
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Lubed up the bushings with this.Supposed to help stop squeaks on the see how it goes
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Re: Vegabee(framing)

Postby Vegabee » Sat Nov 19, 2016 1:06 am

Working on an idea I have borrowed from the front wheel drive world in where the front sway bar is mounted behind the front axles on the engine cradle.Have center two frame rails for mounting and looks like the sway bar center may pass near the torque converter area.took some measurements and found this Hellwig 55905 https://www.amazon.com/Hellwig-55905-Tu ... B0046LLHCE and ordered one.It's a 1 1/8 tubular for a Plymouth duster and turns out to be perfect on width.
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clamped it up and looks good for fit
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Made some plates for more thickness on the frame tubes
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Welded them on
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marked holes and tapped 7/16 14 holes
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The ends ended up under the control arm channel in order to clear the front tire so used the supplied brackets and trimmed them to fit
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Like so..
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Welded them in
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Ended up 5 3/8 from the ball joint for reference
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Re: Vegabee(framing)

Postby Vegabee » Sat Nov 19, 2016 1:12 am

bolted up looks good and will take the twisting off the front core support
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Re: Vegabee(framing)

Postby Vegabee » Mon Nov 21, 2016 2:36 pm

Working on the rear now with the Scarebird https://scarebird.com/ 9" ford disk brackets that use 1988 or so T-bird turbo coupe rear calipers and also ordered the hoses from the T-bird.
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These have brackets on them but there is no way they are going to fit near the body or caliper area so fooled with them for a while and decided to mount along the housing instead.drilled 7/16 holes in them and welded 7/16 mounting nuts to housing
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bolted up and just clears the shocks
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ground tabs off and smoothed the gave a coat of clear
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back on and now time to run some lines
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Re: Vegabee(framing)

Postby zeke » Tue Nov 22, 2016 9:33 am

Sway bar has a cool finish on it. Project is coming along nicely, awesome work VB! :th:
Chris

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Re: Vegabee(framing)

Postby Vegabee » Mon Nov 28, 2016 2:21 pm

Ordered this Camaro hose bracket http://www.ebay.com/p/70-73-f-body-rear ... rmvSB=true and hose https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 12&jsn=233 for transition from hose to rear line
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clips
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also formed the 3/16 lines over the housing
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don't know if this can be seen to well but there is the rear 1/4 brake line coming off prop. valve and going down fire wall,another tight situation.
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cut this line to put a larger size tubing nut on the prop valve and fed under car.fits well away from exhaust at outer undercarriage
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messed up 1st brake line from rear(kinked) so I used it for a template for a second try
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this one went pretty good
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Came out close to front 1/4 line and planned on flaring that one for a fitting
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double flared with some lube connected and fastened up
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Re: Vegabee(framing)

Postby RedFiveKBS » Mon Nov 28, 2016 3:27 pm

Beautiful work!
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Re: Vegabee(framing)

Postby Vegabee » Mon Dec 26, 2016 11:50 pm

Installing front springs and shocks
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Used an Oreillys spring compressor but had to trim the ears on it some to fit up into the upper spring pocket
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1st try was sitting high so pulled and trimmed 1 coil and reinstalled
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gave away my old Craftsman jack for this aluminum Jegs jack,this one is awesome to work with
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Front S10 Blazer shocks and a clip nut kit from Inline Tube.Also some new GM rubber bumps
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These shocks were a little wide where mounting so ground the edges some and elongated the holes to fit
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Re: Vegabee(framing)

Postby Vegabee » Tue Dec 27, 2016 12:00 pm

Sorting out front wheel adapters and with the 1" thick adapter was a note that the lug nuts may have to be ground to not protrude out from the wheel mounting face,which is the case here.
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Also the small nut on left won't do but 'shouldered' lug nuts are required
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Did some research on the validity of aluminum adapters in use these days and they don't seem to be many problems with them
http://adaptitusa.com/customergallery.aspx
https://www.uswheeladapters.com/wheel-adapters-safe/
http://wheeladapter.com/testimonials.php
Check out that orange Mustang and his wheel adapters at wheeladapter.com 'Thanks' for the wheel test :)
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