Making use of garage space!

[cjbiagi]

I believe that goes to the oil pressure switch. That could keep the fuel pump from running if you have a electric one in the tank. Your starter issue could also be with the neutral safety switch or the clutch switch, not sure if you have a automatic or manual trans.

[vernjeggies]

Yeah I researched an online wiring diagram and found that its a missing oil pressure switch, which makes sense since someone added an aftermarket oil pressure guage. It's an automatic, and my original thought was a problem with the neutral safety. Maybe I'll dig into that a little deeper. Thanks for the second opinion!

[SeniorSavage]

here's the diagram if ya need it Jeff.

[Monza Harry]

That is the plug for the oil pressure switch these cars have an electric fuel pump and the oil pressure will shut it off if the pressure drops or the engine quits. That harness should reach up to the front right on a 3.8 but your wagon may not have come with that engine and somebody just unplugged that from the 4 Banger and added (or left it there from the donor) a mechanical pump. The blue one (?) goes to the starter to prime the pump for starting and plug onto the prong for the ignition (not used since HEI). Check to see if that wire and the starter feed are crossed, that will disable both the start and the prime feature, and if that donor is new enough it will only have one terminal and the wrong wire maybe on it. Harry http://www.chevelles.com/techref/tt4a.gif So make sure the correct wire is on the "S" contact/terminal

[vernjeggies]

here's the diagram if ya need it Jeff.

Thats incredibly helpful,
Thanks!

Check to see if that wire and the starter feed are crossed, that will disable both the start and the prime feature, and if that donor is new enough it will only have one terminal and the wrong wire maybe on it.

The motor is a donor for sure. Someone must have left the plug there from the i4. It's going to be a real job trying to see those wires, since the starter is pretty tightly mounted. I think I'd have to pull the motor to actually replace the starter haha. I'll have a look though.
Thanks for the pointers!

[vernjeggies]

Everything seems to check out with the starter wiring. I also tried jumping the neutral safety switch, and no difference. Is there a way to test the ignition switch itself?

[Ckill]

You can test the ignition switch with a basic test light or a voltmeter. What you want to do is test at the column on the large gauge yellow or purple wire. You should have 12v (or battery voltage) while you hold the key in the crank position. If not bad switch. For that matter you can even jump from one of the large gauge red wires to that same starter wire and test the rest of the circuit. Hope that helps.

[vernjeggies]

You can test the ignition switch with a basic test light or a voltmeter. What you want to do is test at the column on the large gauge yellow or purple wire. You should have 12v (or battery voltage) while you hold the key in the crank position. If not bad switch. For that matter you can even jump from one of the large gauge red wires to that same starter wire and test the rest of the circuit. Hope that helps.

Thats perfect! Thank you. I'll check that tomorrow after work. I couldnt figure out which was the main power in at that point.