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question

Postby h-bot » Fri Jan 14, 2000 5:04 pm

From: nbkusg4_REMOVE_928513_THIS_@yahoo.com


Started the cos up and let it run for about 15
minutes. Now when I try to start it it takes a bit of
cranking and it won't idle above 400 800 rpm. When I step
on the gas it dies. Any suggestions? Thanks


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question

Postby h-bot » Fri Jan 14, 2000 8:43 pm

From: markarock_REMOVE_413268_THIS_@yahoo.com


In descending order:
10. Put some gasoline in
the tank.
9. Don't step on the gas.
8. Install
webers.
7. Get the nest of mice out of the air
cleaner.
6. Install the Monza big brakes.
5. Install '65
Corvette brakes.
4. Replace the spark plugs.
3. R&R
the throttle position sensor.
2. Sell it.
1.
Shoot it.

If you don't like any of these
suggestions, provide some additional facts.


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question

Postby h-bot » Sat Jan 15, 2000 3:13 am

From: doctorduke_REMOVE_519181_THIS_@yahoo.com


I assume you're talking about a cold start. Like
Mark says, give us a little bit more to work with. Now
I know what a service writer at a dealership has to
deal with. If all of Mark's suggestions fail, try a
turbocharger.

docotorduke


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question

Postby h-bot » Sun Jan 16, 2000 4:05 pm

From: nbkusg4_REMOVE_364999_THIS_@yahoo.com


Okie Dokie. After running the car for about 1/2
an hour Idling about 15 minutes it now doesn't want
to start. I have to crank it about ten seconds to
get it to fire. It will start but doesn't want to
come up over 500 rpm's occasionally it will rev up to
1100 but it kicks back down after 10 15 seconds. The
add coolant light is coming on although the radiator
is full. I changed the plugs and filled it up with
gas. The number 1 cylinder seems dead the header tube
is cold. I suspect that it is not firing except when
the idle does kick up. Number 2 tube is warm and 3
and 4 are pretty hot. I am going to pull the plug
wires and verify that they are firing. I have had the
car about 4 months and it has been running fine up to
this point I have probably put a hundred miles total
on it. I am a lot more familiar with small blocks
just wondering if this problem sounds familiar to
cosworths. Is there a shop in Seattle that can work on them?


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question

Postby h-bot » Sun Jan 16, 2000 4:32 pm

From: CJBIAGI_REMOVE_283131_THIS_@yahoo.com


While I am no Cosworth expert, if the header
pipes on #1 and 2 are cold, obviously there is no
combustion taking place in those cylinders. My guess would
be something in the ignition system. Any engine
needs the same thing to run, air, fuel, and a properly
timed ignition. Try to narrow it down and let us know
what you find. Are the plugs in #1 and#2 cylinders wet
with fuel when you pull them out? This would verify
that you are getting fuel to those cylinders. I am not
familiar with the cosworth ignition system, is there a
regular distributor or seperate coils for each plug?
Possibly running a simple compression test might show up
somethng too. Any more info you could provide might be
helpful, Good luck. Clyde


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question

Postby h-bot » Sun Jan 16, 2000 7:12 pm

From: markarock_REMOVE_319066_THIS_@yahoo.com


No, no, no, no. Go to the source of the problem.
This is a not uncommon problem, and it's generally
caused by a bad connection or two in the EFI system
wiring. As I recall, the injectors on the Cosworth fire
in pairs, not necessarily in relation to the
location of the piston. So, I suspect that your problem is
at the rear of the computer. Remove and reinstall
all of the connectors. You may have to remove the
computer and remove it from the case and shake all the
aluminum chips out, and test the connector connections to
the circuit board. If that doesn't work, you can yank
the connectors from the injectors, but this is
unlikely to be the problem. To test whether you are
getting spark, spray starting fluid in the front air
inlet on the intake to feed fuel to those cylinders. If
the header pipe heats up, you've got spark. I've had
engines run on two cylinders for a couple of hours, and
then miraculously "catch" and run fine thereafter.
Sometimes if you can rev the engine fairly high on two
cylinders, the vibration will fix the problem. Sometimes if
you push the car to get the engine really spinning,
that will do it too. Good luck.


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question

Postby h-bot » Sun Jan 16, 2000 9:30 pm

From: kiva75_REMOVE_216934_THIS_@yahoo.com


I think maybe injector group misfire. The
injectors fire in pairs 1,2 and 3,4. They are triggered by
the engine speed sensor in the back of the
distributor housing. Try taking it off and cleaning it. It is
a possible cause.

Britt


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question

Postby h-bot » Mon Jan 17, 2000 10:11 am

From: hammerdown7_REMOVE_296909_THIS_@yahoo.com


Might as well throw in my two cents worth, may be
all it's worth. Sounds like fuel to me also. I would
say the culprit is low fuel pressure. The fact that
it won't come off idle, at least to me, means that
there is too much air when the throttle is opened. I
would put a gage on the fuel line, it should read
38-40#, someone correct me here if I'm off. That will
lead to fuel filter or high pressure pump. The pump
does not like long periods of inactivity. My 1400 mile
car is on it's second one.
Dick


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question

Postby h-bot » Mon Jan 17, 2000 10:35 am

From: cosworth_twincams_REMOVE_642216_THIS_@yahoo.com


I agree with you Dick. Sounds like the high pressure pump has "left the building".

Good Luck

Tim


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question

Postby h-bot » Mon Jan 17, 2000 9:06 pm

From: cstwcam_REMOVE_977789_THIS_@yahoo.com


You said you have had the car for 4 months put
about 100 miles no it right? before you got the car had
it been running on a regular basis? or sitting for a
long time? if it was sitting and you have been driving
it and it has been getting worse my sugestion is
flush fuel system and change fuel filter you may have
to use a couple of filters there is a filter that
can be used other than the bendix filter which is
hard to come by this filter is available from your
local parts supply house I have part #s listed in
previous messages refer to prevoius messages posted by
cstwcam re no acceleration and answers to that they are
in the begining or near the begining of
messages.

Art


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question

Postby h-bot » Mon Jan 17, 2000 11:48 pm

From: rpoz09_REMOVE_108321_THIS_@yahoo.com


IT'S THE COOLANT SENSOR!!!

First of all
you have not given the most vital tool in engine
tuning and troubleshooting.
What do the plugs look
like???????
Are they wet, are they dry, are they in???

If
they are wet, concentrate on ignition. You said you
changed the plugs. What about the cap and rotor? A good
set of plugs will outlast that cheap aluminum contact
cap. And a cap can and will fail instantaneous. Does
the bottom side of your cap look like a science fair
project?

If they are dry, concentrate on the fuel system. Are
both pumps running? Get in the car with the key in the
run position and the radio only on half volume, can
you hear the low pressure pump? LOL.. Seriously, you
can hear them if they are running.

With the
basics in order, check those connections, check those
sensors, etc..

These guys are good, but we need to
know. What do those plugs look like??

Good
luck..


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Question

Postby h-bot » Fri Feb 16, 2001 2:04 pm

From: farradio_REMOVE_785041_THIS_@yahoo.com


Why do you guys like these cars.
1)Not worth very much
2)Parts are expensive and hard to get
3)Not very much power
4)Chicks dont really dig em

Al
By the way I have mine since 84


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Question

Postby h-bot » Fri Feb 16, 2001 5:06 pm

From: lilprout_REMOVE_479456_THIS_@yahoo.com


>>Why do you guys like these
cars.<<

I'm Al, you're Al and we both wonder about the same
thing, BTW I had a 33 Plymouth coupe and a 36 Ford Coupe
also, both with small block Chevy.

Al


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Question

Postby h-bot » Fri Feb 16, 2001 5:39 pm

From: doctorduke_REMOVE_322300_THIS_@yahoo.com


1) Dollar value has nothing to do with
collectablity. It's about rarity and driving enjoyment, and CVs
are easily in reach of an enthusiast of modest means.
Have you priced vintage Corvettes and muscle cars
lately (and the muscle cars handle like pigs), yet CVs
are rarer than most Ferrari models built in the last
30 years, but only a Ferrari will outrev
them.

2) I don't know what else you buy parts for, but CV
parts are inexpensive either new or used. Granted, they
don't exactly grow on trees, but if you're tied into
the CVOA network you can get almost anything you need
at quite reasonable prices.

I just bought a
distributor cap and rotor for my '88 MBZ 190E 2.6. The list
price was $110 and $57, respectively. I bought them at
a significant discount direct from a Bosch
distributor, but even with close to 50 percent off these parts
with a box of 10 Bosch H9DC sparkplugs and sales tax
was $120.

I haven't priced a four cylinder HEI
cap and rotor lately, but I'm sure I could pick up a
Delco replacement set for no more than $25.

3) A
production engine with a low restriction exhaust system will
output about 140 HP at the rear wheels. I don't know of
any other 2.0 liter production engine that will do
this. With a bit of mild headwork, a 10.5:1 CR and a
good exhaust 200 HP is avaliable at the crank and
about 170 at the rear wheels.

4) If you value
cars on the basis of being "chick magnets", don't
worry, you'll eventually grow up!

Duke


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Question

Postby h-bot » Fri Feb 16, 2001 6:07 pm

From: cosworth_twincams_REMOVE_366071_THIS_@yahoo.com


Hey Al's it's called an addiction, why else would
we have a support organization - Cosworth Vega
Owners Anonymous, the CVOA. (Actually its the Cosworth
Vega Owners Association).

Hey if you want a
real V8 for a Street Rod get a Cosworth DFX Indy
V8.

Later Y'all

Tim


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