From: doctorduke_REMOVE_284949_THIS_@yahoo.com
The FIS and FIV are completely independent of each other. The FIS
opens/closes a restricted short circuit from above to below the
throttle plate. The FIV provides a separate path between the air
cleaner and inlet manifold.
The FIV rebuild story covered changing the O-rings and shimming the
FIV to reduce the high idle speed on the first design used in '75. I
don't think that covers your problem, but you should review the story.
Duke
[This is message #9575 by user doctorduke on Yahoo! Group Cosworth Vegas: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cosworthvegas ]
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Idle setting
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Idle setting
by h-bot » Sat Oct 19, 2002 3:29 am
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Idle setting
by h-bot » Sat Oct 19, 2002 4:45 am
From: rondeau3_REMOVE_660686_THIS_@yahoo.com
I just got back from a drive with the FIV hose plugged completely,
it started ok, I could hear the solenoid clicking as it was cycling,
I don't know where is was taking it's air from since the hose was
plugged off, but the rpm was at the normal 1900-2000 between cycles.
Then once the engine warmed up, the idle was normal at 1500 rpm.
FIV is my idle problem.
But I'm wondering why my cold start is normal when I plug it off
completely?, shouldn't it be struggling to idle when cold?
It almost looks like I should leave it plugged and forget about it.
It's friday night and found a few fast drivers out tonight, no fast
cars, but I managed to leave them behind, I even passed one that was
trying to keep me in my lane, but I got ahead of him even if he
didn't want me to.
At the next light they both tried to get me, but I managed to stay
up front until I chose to let go, then they passed me at twice the
speed limit.
Nothing to brag about, but it shows me my CV is running fine.
The 2 cars in question were a 2002 Civic 2 door coupe and the other
one was a newer Cavalier 2 door coupe also.
If the CV can stay ahead of them, it's a good sign, better than the
days where I couldn't keep up with a Firefly or an old Dodge Caravan.
Al
[This is message #9571 by user rondeau3 on Yahoo! Group Cosworth Vegas: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cosworthvegas ]
I just got back from a drive with the FIV hose plugged completely,
it started ok, I could hear the solenoid clicking as it was cycling,
I don't know where is was taking it's air from since the hose was
plugged off, but the rpm was at the normal 1900-2000 between cycles.
Then once the engine warmed up, the idle was normal at 1500 rpm.
FIV is my idle problem.
But I'm wondering why my cold start is normal when I plug it off
completely?, shouldn't it be struggling to idle when cold?
It almost looks like I should leave it plugged and forget about it.
It's friday night and found a few fast drivers out tonight, no fast
cars, but I managed to leave them behind, I even passed one that was
trying to keep me in my lane, but I got ahead of him even if he
didn't want me to.
At the next light they both tried to get me, but I managed to stay
up front until I chose to let go, then they passed me at twice the
speed limit.
Nothing to brag about, but it shows me my CV is running fine.
The 2 cars in question were a 2002 Civic 2 door coupe and the other
one was a newer Cavalier 2 door coupe also.
If the CV can stay ahead of them, it's a good sign, better than the
days where I couldn't keep up with a Firefly or an old Dodge Caravan.
Al
[This is message #9571 by user rondeau3 on Yahoo! Group Cosworth Vegas: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cosworthvegas ]
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Idle setting
by h-bot » Sat Oct 19, 2002 4:49 am
From: doctorduke_REMOVE_141924_THIS_@yahoo.com
The FIV has a couple of O-rings that seal the outside shell to the
body. I'll bet ten bucks they are shot, but even if they are, they
are not the problem. The O-rings just seal the inlet against
unfiltered outside air.
The valve has a "thermal compound" that expands and contracts
with temperature change. As far as I know there is no way to rebuilt
the valve other than replacing the O-rings, which as stated above,
would not cause your symptoms.
My guess is that the end of the valve or coolant passage in the head
is caked or blocked with deposits that is causing excess thermal
resistance and not allowing the valve to "read" the true coolant
temperature.
Duke
[This is message #9572 by user doctorduke on Yahoo! Group Cosworth Vegas: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cosworthvegas ]
The FIV has a couple of O-rings that seal the outside shell to the
body. I'll bet ten bucks they are shot, but even if they are, they
are not the problem. The O-rings just seal the inlet against
unfiltered outside air.
The valve has a "thermal compound" that expands and contracts
with temperature change. As far as I know there is no way to rebuilt
the valve other than replacing the O-rings, which as stated above,
would not cause your symptoms.
My guess is that the end of the valve or coolant passage in the head
is caked or blocked with deposits that is causing excess thermal
resistance and not allowing the valve to "read" the true coolant
temperature.
Duke
[This is message #9572 by user doctorduke on Yahoo! Group Cosworth Vegas: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cosworthvegas ]
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Idle setting
by h-bot » Sat Oct 19, 2002 5:09 am
From: rondeau3_REMOVE_864408_THIS_@yahoo.com
--- In <a href="/group/cosworthvegas/post?protectID=219233066105193209050199029077192253163098100046209130">cosworthvegas@y...</a>, doctorduke <<a href="/group/cosworthvegas/post?protectID=091233212180056219138097203245129208071">no_reply@y...</a>> wrote:
> The FIV has a couple of O-rings that seal the outside shell to the
> body. I'll bet ten bucks they are shot,
Duke, you're right they are shot, I can feel it when I spin the
outer body of the valve, there is no rubber left in there, there is
enough play in it and if the O-rings would be good it wouldn't feel
like it does.
>but even if they are, they
> are not the problem. The O-rings just seal the inlet against
> unfiltered outside air.
It might be where it was taking it's air from when the solenoid was
cycling???
>
> The valve has a "thermal compound" that expands and contracts
> with temperature change. As far as I know there is no way to
rebuilt
> the valve other than replacing the O-rings, which as stated above,
> would not cause your symptoms.
How about the FIV repair story in the CVOA mag. on how to rebuild
the FIV?
>
> My guess is that the end of the valve or coolant passage in the
head
> is caked or blocked with deposits that is causing excess thermal
> resistance and not allowing the valve to "read" the true coolant
> temperature.
That might be why it has to reach 195-200 deg. in order to shut it
off completely, I haven't checked it yet at that temperature, I will
let it warm up tomorrow and unplug the hose to see if it there is
vacuum in the hose, if not, your theory might be right on.
Thanks
Al
[This is message #9573 by user rondeau3 on Yahoo! Group Cosworth Vegas: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cosworthvegas ]
--- In <a href="/group/cosworthvegas/post?protectID=219233066105193209050199029077192253163098100046209130">cosworthvegas@y...</a>, doctorduke <<a href="/group/cosworthvegas/post?protectID=091233212180056219138097203245129208071">no_reply@y...</a>> wrote:
> The FIV has a couple of O-rings that seal the outside shell to the
> body. I'll bet ten bucks they are shot,
Duke, you're right they are shot, I can feel it when I spin the
outer body of the valve, there is no rubber left in there, there is
enough play in it and if the O-rings would be good it wouldn't feel
like it does.
>but even if they are, they
> are not the problem. The O-rings just seal the inlet against
> unfiltered outside air.
It might be where it was taking it's air from when the solenoid was
cycling???
>
> The valve has a "thermal compound" that expands and contracts
> with temperature change. As far as I know there is no way to
rebuilt
> the valve other than replacing the O-rings, which as stated above,
> would not cause your symptoms.
How about the FIV repair story in the CVOA mag. on how to rebuild
the FIV?
>
> My guess is that the end of the valve or coolant passage in the
head
> is caked or blocked with deposits that is causing excess thermal
> resistance and not allowing the valve to "read" the true coolant
> temperature.
That might be why it has to reach 195-200 deg. in order to shut it
off completely, I haven't checked it yet at that temperature, I will
let it warm up tomorrow and unplug the hose to see if it there is
vacuum in the hose, if not, your theory might be right on.
Thanks
Al
[This is message #9573 by user rondeau3 on Yahoo! Group Cosworth Vegas: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cosworthvegas ]
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Idle setting
by h-bot » Sat Oct 19, 2002 5:31 am
From: cstwcam_REMOVE_843432_THIS_@yahoo.com
> The 2 cars in question were a 2002 Civic 2 door coupe and the
other
> one was a newer Cavalier 2 door coupe also.
>
> If the CV can stay ahead of them, it's a good sign, better than
the
> days where I couldn't keep up with a Firefly or an old Dodge
Caravan.
>
> Al
Al sounds like you are starting to enjoy your Cosworth. Just watch
out for the Cosworth bug it may be getting ready to bite. buz buz
Art
[This is message #9578 by user cstwcam on Yahoo! Group Cosworth Vegas: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cosworthvegas ]
> The 2 cars in question were a 2002 Civic 2 door coupe and the
other
> one was a newer Cavalier 2 door coupe also.
>
> If the CV can stay ahead of them, it's a good sign, better than
the
> days where I couldn't keep up with a Firefly or an old Dodge
Caravan.
>
> Al
Al sounds like you are starting to enjoy your Cosworth. Just watch
out for the Cosworth bug it may be getting ready to bite. buz buz
Art
[This is message #9578 by user cstwcam on Yahoo! Group Cosworth Vegas: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cosworthvegas ]
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