sway bars and 76' rear ends in 75's musings

[h-bot]

From: Kenneth.M.Rock_REMOVE_850221_THIS_@yahoo.com

I installed 76 brakes on a 75 axle. The brake backing plates unbolt
from the axle. I also replaced the axle seals. You do need to use
the 76 axles, since the 76 drum will not fit over the 75 axle unless
you bore out the center of the drum. The '76 brakes IMO are easier
to adjust, and don't use that silly expander bar. I put the 75 axle
on a 76, so I have no info on the line fittings.

I hope you are documenting (with pictures) this project, I hope to do
it to #0259 this year.

Ken




[This is message #9861 by user Kenneth.M.Rock on Yahoo! Group Cosworth Vegas: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cosworthvegas ]

[h-bot]

From: buddyleejjc2_REMOVE_156174_THIS_@yahoo.com

Hello All,
I am not sure of the size, but the front sway bar and the rear
sway bar that I have are the biggest on a CV that I have seen. I
think it is 1 1/4" on the front and 1 1/8" for the rear. When on the
car 1002, it stiffened up the car a bit, but one drawback. I had
polyurethane bushings attatching the front to the lower A-frames. I
drove the car daily, and within six months, cracked the bracket where
the sway bar mounts to the a-frame. I had no real problems with the
back, other than when autocrossing the rearend had a greater tendency
to swing out quicker, than with the standard rear sway bar. Just
something to take into consideration when putting larger sway bars on
the front, if you are going to be driving the car on a regular basis
for other than racing purposes, I believe one should put on rubber
bushings, the stress on the mounting points will be less than with
polyurethane bushings.

As for swapping 76' rear brakes into a 75' rear end, unless you
can weld, you will need to pull out the axle shafts from both to put
the bigger brakes to the 75' rear end casing, due to different
placements of the bracket for the upper bar that connects to the rear
end, (forgot the name right now). The biggest problem that my dad and
I had was with the shims that are next to the gear itself. From the
different rear ends we came across different size shims, and when we
were done, there was a whine from the rear end that was due to
putting in the wrong shim sizing. Be sure of the clearance specs for
these shims when putting the gear back into the casing and bolting in
the axle shafts. The whole switch out can take about six hours, and
remember to replace the master cylinder and installing the 76'
proprtioning valve, otherwise the rear end locks up when braking with
a 75' master cylinder and splitter. One last suggestion before doing
the swap out, make sure you have flange tool, because one of the
fittings for the brake line into the proportioning valve is different
on the 76', and you will have to cut and flare the end of the brake
line.
Later,
John J. Cowall





[This is message #9857 by user buddyleejjc2 on Yahoo! Group Cosworth Vegas: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cosworthvegas ]

[h-bot]

From: doctorduke_REMOVE_168602_THIS_@yahoo.com


I have no experience installing '76 rear brakes on the '75 axle, but
if the bolt pattern for the '75 and '76 backing plates are the same it
should not be a major job. The axles will have to come out, but this
only requires removing the rear diff cover, axle c-clips, and pulling
out the axles. It DOES NOT require pulling the case and case side
shims.

If the backing plate bolt pattern is the same, the only issues might
be routing the axle brake pipes to the '76 wheel cylinders, parking
brake cables,
and installing the proportioning valve into the '75 brake plumbing.

Again, if you upgrade to the Monza front brakes, the '75 rear brakes
should be quite adequate, and I don't see much advantage to installing
the '76 rear brakes on a '75 unless you want think the extra weight
will improve performance.

Duke





[This is message #9859 by user doctorduke on Yahoo! Group Cosworth Vegas: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cosworthvegas ]