oil type?

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oil type?

Postby h-bot » Sun Jan 12, 2003 9:20 am

From: ssafstro_REMOVE_825789_THIS_@yahoo.com

With cv3122 in winter hibernation, being started each week, I have
read the info on the filter that Dr.Duke and guys have wrote in. Have
we finally deemed that this filter will work well, and with myself
being impatient with the weather in up state ny, I thought I would
warm this jessy up and do an oil change. The manual states to use a
high grade SE oil. With the car sitting for lengths of time and with
the alloy block (7600 mi) should I use or could I use a synthetic oil
or should I keep with the regular spec oil so the bores have a
residue for protection. To my knowlege the synth is less weight but
stays constant with no regard to the temp. But will it leave a
residue as regular oil. Coupled with this new anti-drain back filter
do you guys feel it is the way to go.Is it possible that there may be
a problem by using the synth oil. appreciate any thoughts

[This is message #10217 by user ssafstro on Yahoo! Group Cosworth Vegas: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cosworthvegas ]
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oil type?

Postby h-bot » Sun Jan 12, 2003 11:00 am

From: doctorduke_REMOVE_980071_THIS_@yahoo.com

--- In <a href="/group/cosworthvegas/post?protectID=219233066105193209050199029077192253163098100009128121188190230091025019053061151110147">cosworthvegas@yahoogroups.com</a>, "cv3122 <<a href="/group/cosworthvegas/post?protectID=061059113121099134218149203101129208071">ssafstro@n...</a>>"

First, if your car is in winter storage, DO NOT START IT unless you
want to drive it. Many studies over the years have proved that the
vast majority of engine wear over the life of a typical automotive
engine occurs during cold start and warm up. Starting and warming a
car during winter storage just causes engine wear. Prepare the car
for winter storage by changing the oil and filter. Then put it away
and don't start it until you're ready to drive it in the Spring.

The engine oil viscosities recommended for the CV are based on the
lowest and highest ambient temperatures that the car will be "cold
started" in are in the owners manual. If you don't drive the car in
the winter, then you should use oils recommended for warmer
temperatures. Almost any multi-viscosity oil will qualify, and for
any temperatures about 40F GM says it's okay to use SAE 30. Again,
these temperature apply to the ambient temperature that the car will
be started in, not the storage temperature.

The two advantages of synthetic oil are a lower rate of oxidation,
which leads to longer service life, and a better viscosity index
without the use of VI improvers that can be short lived. This gives
synthetics an advantage as a long life year round oil in climates with
vast extremes in temperatures. In a collector car that sees little
mileage accumulation they provide no benefit for the additional cost.
Synthetic oils do "lubricate" any better than conventional mineral
based oils.

The most important characteristic of a motor oil is the ADDITIVE
PACKAGE. I will yell it again - ADDITIVE PACKAGE!!! Trace amounts of
various chemicals give some oils superior characteristics. These
additives are detergents, dispersants, anti-wear, and anti-corrosion
compounds. For this reason I use heavy duty diesel engine oil in my
vintage cars, which are defined by the API service classification CH-4
(in the process of transitioning to CI-4). These oils, most of which
are mineral oil based, have a higher dose of these critical additives.
Spark ignition oils (current API spec SL) - have actually seen a
reduction in these additives over the years because modern engines
with quick warm up and precise fuel control do not need as much and
their combustion byproducts are not kind to catalytic converters, but
the converter in my CV sees very little road time, so I'm not
concerned about its life.

The three major national brands of CI-4 oil are Chevron Delo, Mobil
Delvac, and Shell Rotella. They are typically available in SAE
viscosity grades 15W-40, 30, and 40. My current pick of the litter is
15W-40 Delo, but you can't go wrong using any of them. A SAE 15 grade
is suitable for cold starts down to about 10 degrees F.

Change the oil and filter once a year regardless of mileage. If you
store your car during the winter, change the oil prior to storage and
use it for the full driving season until it's time to store again for
the winter at which point, you change it again.

In particular, high doses of zinc based anti-wear additive in CI-4
oils will help prevent piston and cylinder wall scuffing in CV
engines, which is an issue, and the additional anti-corrosion
additives will help ward off corrosion during storage and between

Visit the American Petroleum Institute web site at www.api.org if you
would like to learn more about the properties of motor and gear oils.
BTW did I say that the most important property of a motor oil is its


P.S. I have yet to go out and find a PF454 oil filter, but if anybody
does, could you tell us it's overall length. Also, the presense of an
anti-drain back valve should be obvious when comparing it to a PF25 or


[This is message #10219 by user doctorduke on Yahoo! Group Cosworth Vegas: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cosworthvegas ]
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