Engine oil

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Engine oil

Postby h-bot » Wed Feb 19, 2003 6:52 am

From: mike.bormann_REMOVE_284911_THIS_@yahoo.com

In addition to my Cosworth, I also have a show quality Suzuki Samurai
sitting in the garage. I am a member of the Yahoo group for Samurai
owners as well. I have seen several posts on there regarding
the "Lucas Oil". I have heard nothing but good about this stuff. A
good number of the Samurai members use their rigs for trail riding
only. So their trucks sit for long periods of time. And, they are a
high reving (small, but high reving) motor. This Lucas Oil is
supposed to stick better to the metal, provide better friction wear,
and more lubrication at start up during long periods of rest. Has
anyone used this in their Cosworths? If so, does it work well?
And what grade and brand of oil is best to use in the Cosworths?
Would a 10-40 be better, or a thicker 20-50 if it sits for long
periods. My Cosworth motor is all stock, and I don't race it.
I usually swear by Quaker State, but right now I think I have
Valvoline racing 20-50 in my Cosworth.
Thanks,
Mike




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engine oil

Postby h-bot » Thu Feb 20, 2003 2:42 am

From: ssafstro_REMOVE_397533_THIS_@yahoo.com

I asked the same question in past POSTS. It looks like the oil for
diesles would do a very good job because of the additives. check out
the old posts.
cv3122
steve-s




[This is message #10590 by user ssafstro on Yahoo! Group Cosworth Vegas: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cosworthvegas ]
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Engine oil

Postby h-bot » Thu Feb 20, 2003 2:43 am

From: doctorduke_REMOVE_480371_THIS_@yahoo.com

The best oils to use are HD diesel engine oils, API service category
CI-4. They have a richer additive package including anti-wear,
anti-corrosion, detergent, and dispersant additives than current spark
ignition oils designed for modern cars.

Any oil will provide basic lubrication, but it's the ADDITIVE PACKAGE
that provides longevity.

The only advantage of synthetic base stocks is longer life due to
their lower oxidation rate and a wider viscosity range, but assuming
you don't drive your CV in below zero weather, the viscosity range is
not an issue. You should change oil at least once a year, so if you
only drive a few hundred to a few thousand miles, synthetics have
little value.

Most discussions on motor oil are moot because very few guys
understand the importance of or pay attention to additive packages,
but the additive package is the most important motor oil
characteristic for a vintage collector cars that you want to last.

Motor oil advertising is 99 percent marketing BS, which offers nothing
of value about the suitability of their product to a particular
application, so the only thing you can go by is the API service
category and SAE viscosity range. The rest is bunk.

Duke




[This is message #10591 by user doctorduke on Yahoo! Group Cosworth Vegas: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cosworthvegas ]
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Engine oil

Postby h-bot » Thu Feb 20, 2003 5:56 am

From: buddyleejjc2_REMOVE_243419_THIS_@yahoo.com

--- In <a href="/group/cosworthvegas/post?protectID=219233066105193209050199029077192253163098100009128121188190230091025019053061151110147">cosworthvegas@yahoogroups.com</a>, doctorduke <<a href="/group/cosworthvegas/post?protectID=091233212180056219138097203245129208071">no_reply@y...</a>>
wrote:
> The best oils to use are HD diesel engine oils, API service
category
> CI-4. They have a richer additive package including anti-wear,
> anti-corrosion, detergent, and dispersant additives than current
spark
> ignition oils designed for modern cars.
>
> Any oil will provide basic lubrication, but it's the ADDITIVE
PACKAGE
> that provides longevity.
>
> The only advantage of synthetic base stocks is longer life due to
> their lower oxidation rate and a wider viscosity range, but
assuming
> you don't drive your CV in below zero weather, the viscosity range
is
> not an issue. You should change oil at least once a year, so if
you
> only drive a few hundred to a few thousand miles, synthetics have
> little value.
>
> Most discussions on motor oil are moot because very few guys
> understand the importance of or pay attention to additive packages,
> but the additive package is the most important motor oil
> characteristic for a vintage collector cars that you want to last.
>
> Motor oil advertising is 99 percent marketing BS, which offers
nothing
> of value about the suitability of their product to a particular
> application, so the only thing you can go by is the API service
> category and SAE viscosity range. The rest is bunk.
>
> Duke


I will have to agree with Duke about the advertising bunk. I have
seen the inside of cylinder walls of a few CV motors, using 20-50
Mobil One, to the cheapest 10-30 oils out there, however, it depends
on how much you use the car. If a daily driver, it depends on the
climate. Do not use 20-50 in below zero weather, this is my opinion,
but 20-50 seems harder to warm up in this kind of climate. In the
winter I use 10-40 synthetic mobil one, in the summer 20-50,
depending on the car. My dad's race car, 3136, uses 10-30 mobil one,
we change it before we start it for the summer season, and turn it
over by hand a couple of time s brfore starting. In my opinion, it
all depends on how much you use the car. As for my daily driver, 10-
40 mobil in the summer, and 10-30 mobil for the winter.
Later,
John J. Cowall
P.S. I live in Michigan




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Engine oil

Postby h-bot » Thu Feb 20, 2003 1:36 pm

From: cstwcam_REMOVE_225843_THIS_@yahoo.com

Mike, I have been using Castrol 20w-50 semi synthetic oil ever since
I owned 1105 which has been 7 years and only Castrol I stick with
the same oil in the same vehicle the only time I use anything else
is in an emergency in our van I use Penz-oil synthetic 10w-40 it may
not be necessary to be brand specific but I try to stick to it.

Art





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